Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

I have been trying to figure out how my stagea goes with fuel.

I have done my research and seems normally they should do 400kms per 60l tank.

I drive 80kms to and from work every day so I do 400kms a week. I fill up $70 premium every Monday and lasts till Saturday. Premium price varies obviously.

Works out about $14 a day for 80kms

What's everyone else getting. Does my figures sound about right or is my stag using a lol too much fuel??

Kris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440997-fuel-consumption-hows-your-c34/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

You should talk litres per hundred to be more accurate.

Mine is a rwd with rb30 bottom end. To and from work 12ks each way uses 13.3 litres per hundred. Have been meaning to tidy up cruise part of tune for a while as I think it could be better.

I'm assuming your commute to and from work contains some freeway/highway driving?? 11.25 sounds very good...You have to remember Stagea's (S2 I think...dunno if the S1 or the M35 is the same) have a 68L fuel tank in them

On the other hand - check out http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/167866-stagea-fuel-economy/ - There is a discussion thread on fuel economy

Edited by BigDirtyJase

S2 c34 rs4s gets 400km from 3/4 tank (have never run it into the last 1/4) if I drive like a total nana with only one or two slight boost moments. 350km if driving a little more spirited. Driving on the highway between adelaide and melbourne I got 550kms approx.

(I dont know how big the tank is to do ltrs/100km) but would assume its between 13 and 16 lt/100km average. Fair heavy considering the charger (with a 4.3ltr 4bbl auto) does about 15-17 lt/100km.. and it weighs about the same lol

Edited by staglover

Is there a system available for the c34 that can do the same?

Not sure, all the searches on Japanese Yahoo auctions searches came up for M35.

There are a few guys that can do the language conversion software, and the units are worth nothing in Japan, basically throw away $40 nzd. I guess it must link info from diagnostic software/on board computer to the nav screen?

Is there a system available for the c34 that can do the same?

Yes, it is called ECU Talk, here is a link for it,

i have one in my car, it is useful not only for L/100km but all other diagnostics.

can be used with a laptop and consult software to check for faults.

great investment http://www.ecutalk.com/consultlcd.aspx

S1 RS4V - does around 12.5-13L/100km "round town" ie Canberra roads. Country highway is 11-12L/100km, freeway is on the lower end of that.

Fuel economy improved ~1L/100km when I installed a hypergear hi flow turbo and a mv auto stage 2 shift kit.

Can't say scientifically which did what improvement, but my money would be on the turbo.

S1 rsfour, manual converted.

Only engine mods are rear resonator and big fmic.

14l/100km regardless of hwy or town driving.

Pretty much 100km per 1/4 tank or 400km/tank, I always fill up at around 350km.

ive found a noticeable change in fuel economy since having a stage 2 shift kit fitted to my S1RS4

Its possible, though I can't think why. The box runs a slightly higher line pressure, so if anything there should be more energy lost through the transmission. Perhaps not enough to make a difference on economy. MV autos said it shouldn't make a difference.

The larger turbo should be less restrictive and doesn't spool up at the whiff of a throttle. It now stays off boost unless Im giving some throttle over 3k rpm. That should be more efficient with the stock ecu.

Still, everyones results may vary. I read a post once saying that the stage 2 kit would effect the lock up converter, and I havent found that to be the case at all. Can't see how it would be either.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You’ll want to have the block drilled and tapped to suit 1/2in head studs and the head for the same. How much power do you intend to make?
    • Sorry for resurrecting an oldish thread Not much has happened in the past year since the last update. The car did another 1000 miles or so and failed the MOT for the first time in October (failed on tyres which had been advised for a couple of years) In October the car got put up for sale and was removed in November due to no interest, being so close to christmas it was to be expected. The roads were dry in February so I decided to tax it early and get the new tyres fitted.   Fast forward to April, I got someone in to give the car a good clean after sitting for the winter.                                 The car got re-advertised and today (Saturday 3rd May) the car sold. The new owner is planning a GTR conversion at some point and a respray in the same pearl white. It's bitter sweet, it's a shame to have the car sit there for half the year and then only do 1000 miles. The kids are growing too quick and space in the back is getting limited. It's been a great 6.5 years of ownership
    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
×
×
  • Create New...