Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 10 months later...

Good thread.

I just did a track day and spoke with my workshop afterwards, they recommended getting an oil temp gauge at a minimum.

So going by the suggestions in the earlier posts, if I was to get boost and oil temp gauges plus perhaps a shift light for the track, what brands should I be looking at? Autometer, HDI, anything else? Defis look nice but exxy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441108-gauges/page/2/#findComment-7474540
Share on other sites

Yeah but defis work good, are reliable and also record and can show max levels with programmable warnings, plus easy to read and look good, you get what you pay for, monitoring your engine is pretty important

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441108-gauges/page/2/#findComment-7474661
Share on other sites

Yeah but defis work good, are reliable and also record and can show max levels with programmable warnings, plus easy to read and look good, you get what you pay for, monitoring your engine is pretty important

Ok I take your point - just bought a set of 60mm boost/oil temp/water temp Defis at a reasonable price. These are not the latest model but seem to be in good nic.

I'll need to find an R34 triple gauge pod (the holder only) and a replacement Defi oil temp sensor somewhere, any recommendations on where to look?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441108-gauges/page/2/#findComment-7475407
Share on other sites

do love the defi's too expensive for me though.

I got race tech gauges, does the job for street abuse.

they are the 60mm 3 in one gauges

1st gauge EGT, fuel pressure, Water temp (top of rad)

2nd gauge Oil press & temp and water temp (bottom of rad)

3rd AFR

EBC shows me boost.

you take your eyes of the road when on track, maybe at best you look down at the dash... rarely...

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441108-gauges/page/2/#findComment-7475531
Share on other sites

do love the defi's too expensive for me though.

I got race tech gauges, does the job for street abuse.

they are the 60mm 3 in one gauges

1st gauge EGT, fuel pressure, Water temp (top of rad)

2nd gauge Oil press & temp and water temp (bottom of rad)

3rd AFR

EBC shows me boost.

you take your eyes of the road when on track, maybe at best you look down at the dash... rarely...

Cheers Daniel, looks like a great setup! I just found more details in your build thread: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452874-dannys-r34-gtt-build-diary-log/?p=7463887 . It sounds like installing the probes is a pretty big job?

I agree about not really being able to look at gauges out on the track, however there's always a bit of time during a cool-down lap :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441108-gauges/page/2/#findComment-7475548
Share on other sites

not sure what race's you've been to but the only cool down time is when your off the track completely, and yes installing the probes will be your biggest concern, once you get your head around all the fittings and npt vs bsb threads you'll nut it out quickly, also my local auto pro help's me with various fittings and adapters, so keep that in mind when something doesn't fit, and sometimes you'll just need someone to weld in a bung for your sensors.

Cheers.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441108-gauges/page/2/#findComment-7476076
Share on other sites

Check out the auber gauges. Super accurate and can be wired up to a beeper alarm. I've got them in my Cefiro and wired a switch into the alarm for when the car isn't running etc. Alarms are fully adjustable and if you want to change what the gauge is for down the track you just buy another sender and wire it up.

They are relatively cheap too (more now with the AUD going down) but I just bought 2 for my Patrol as well as they were $226 delivered. Brilliant after sales service too!

I've since added labels to each one but here is a summary:

  1. Oil temp
  2. Oil pressure (shown in Bar - car was off at time of photo)
  3. Water temp
  4. Warning buzzer - Each gauge has configurable warning levels switched by an internal relay. All 3 gauges are negatively switched to the buzzer so when the internal relay switches upon hitting the limit it will start the buzzer flashing and beeping
  5. Switch for buzzer - I added a switch to the buzzer so if something goes wrong and I'm aware of it, it doesn't continually keep beeping at me!
  6. Switch to allow radio, clock, central locking to work when the kill switch is off. When it is on it allows current to pass through a 15amp fuse across the kill switch terminals so if you try and start the car without the kill switch the fuse blows. When it is off it means the car is drawing no power.
  7. Kill switch

IMG_5708_zpsa1308e89.jpg

Edited by konect
  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441108-gauges/page/2/#findComment-7476290
Share on other sites

Personally dont like the look of those data monitors, but to me that seems like a very well thought out and nice setup. The alarms in my gauges piss me off but they are either on or off. Would be great to have a buzzer cancel and alarm wired up to a 5psi oil pressure switch to cancel it when the cars off

If I had the money and room, I'd have so much crap in my car haha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441108-gauges/page/2/#findComment-7477011
Share on other sites

Hehe. I used Auber Instruments' PID controller to replace the thermostat on my espresso machine. They make good stuff - just not as pretty as Defis. Auber "gauges" are not really gauges in the real sense of the word. They are little 1/32 DIN industrial indicators that you can set up to display the output from pretty much any automobile sensor (if you try hard enough).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441108-gauges/page/2/#findComment-7477059
Share on other sites

Yeah had a play with the Defis tonight, just basic wiring to battery to see the powerup. The startup sequence is pretty nifty, it's a great piece of marketing on Defi's behalf, looks like every other gauge is doing the same these days :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441108-gauges/page/2/#findComment-7477111
Share on other sites

I actually went with digital gauges, mainly because in a scenario where you're wanting to see if something is boiling, all I want/need to do is see whether it's a 3 or 2 digit number. :P

That said, a buzzer would also suffice for this, and is a far better idea than quickly looking down near your head unit while driving at speed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441108-gauges/page/2/#findComment-7477184
Share on other sites

I also went digital but slightly different. I bought one of these when first released

http://www.rhdjapan.com/apexi-din-gauge-3-multi-purpose-digital-meter.html

You can set alarms and colours for different temps and pressures. It displays oil and water temp plus oil pressure. Comes with sensors and harnesses and fits perfectly into a normal din mount.

The good thing with the colours is that you can set it to blue for when the cars warming up and as it gets to normal operating temps it will slowly change to green. If the temps start to rise then it changes to pink and then red.

Has all the usual options like peak recall ect as well.

Here a short video of it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441108-gauges/page/2/#findComment-7477208
Share on other sites

I'm keeping an eye on the zada tech 7" LCD as a replacement for my triple gauge cluster:

R34 mount replacing MFD/gauge pod:

http://zada-tech.com/blog/nissan-gtr-r34-7-mfd-gauges#.VL5x0u_c3Jg.twitter

Will also be keeping eyes on this, looks awesome but I don't imagine it will be cheap.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441108-gauges/page/2/#findComment-7477389
Share on other sites

I'm keeping an eye on the zada tech 7" LCD as a replacement for my triple gauge cluster:

R34 mount replacing MFD/gauge pod:

http://zada-tech.com/blog/nissan-gtr-r34-7-mfd-gauges#.VL5x0u_c3Jg.twitter

Nice!! I like that. Now I just need to upgrade the 32 to a 34 [emoji16]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441108-gauges/page/2/#findComment-7477665
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 1. I can't see a location on your profile but you do mention GBP so I'll assume you are in UK. In Australia, CBC make a timing belt kit with the gears and idler and tension bearing and that is what I use without any problems. I'm sure OEM or HKS are also fine but I wouldn't pay extra for HKS over anything else. 2. Yes, I would always change the idler and tensioner and the stud and bolt that hold them in. Assuming they were all done last time it is highly unlikely you would have a problem, but they are very cheap to add to the job considering the time it will take anyway.  3. No, you don't need to lock them as such (I think that is more for engines without timing marks), but you should make sure they move as little as possible once the belt is off as you can hit pistons on valves if they move too far. As always, make sure you line it all up to top dead centre with the timing marks aligned before you take the old belt off.
    • How to wreak havoc at a bogans party... Swap out the goon bag hanging from the clothes line with oil bag... Watch chaos ensue during Goon of Fortune....
    • Hey everyone,   I’m looking for some advice on replacing the timing belt on my RB25DET Neo-powered 1998 Skyline. The engine was fully built about five years ago, including a fresh timing belt, water pump, and other essentials. However, since then, the car has only covered around 2,000–3,000 miles. It’s currently making around 650hp.   Even though the mileage is low, I know timing belts have a time-based lifespan too, and most recommendations suggest changing them every five to six years or 50,000 miles. Since I’m at that time mark, I’d rather not take any risks and plan to swap it out soon.   A few things I’d like to hear opinions on: 1. What’s the best belt for this setup? Should I go with an OEM Nissan belt, or is the HKS fine-tune a better choice given the power level? 2. Would you bother replacing the idler pulley and tensioner at the same time, or only if they show wear? 3. When swapping the belt, is it necessary to lock the cam and crank gears in place, or is lining up the timing marks enough? I’ve seen different approaches, and I want to make sure I do it right.   The water pump was changed with the rebuild and isn’t run off the timing belt, so I don’t see a need to replace it again. I just want to make sure I approach this the right way.   Any insight would be much appreciated. Thanks!
    • How does this compare to the internally gated g25-550 in terms of power production at same psi and spool
×
×
  • Create New...