Sourcing Amp Wiring Kit And Ferrite

[Lolrick]

Hi Guys,

I said I wouldn't, but I seem to have gone out and purchased a sub and amp (second hand but barely used) for the R34, which I'll be installing myself.

Amp is MTX THUNDER500.1 (1000W peak, 300RMS x 1 @ 4 ohms, 500RMS x1 @ 2 ohms)

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-HbQaXv4HzFn/p_236THND5K1/MTX-THUNDER500-1.html#overview-tab

Sub is Option Audio 12' Slimline 700W/350WRMS, with D.C. Coil Resisitance (sic) of 'dual 4.0'

http://www.optionaudio.com.au/specs/12SL11BOX.pdf

I have three questions:

1) Where can I find the cheapest amp wiring kit without risking a random chinese ebay seller? Amp spec calls for 4 gauge with 60 amp fuse. I already have RCA and remote wires, but need speaker wires as well as power wires. Would love to hear your recommendations, otherwise I'll just head to Jaycar.

2) How do i know the resistance that I am using with the amp? Where can I set this? I can't see a switch. Or is this determined by the speaker that I am connecting it to? (in this case, 4 ohm dual coil) The amp outputs to the speaker say '2 ohm minimum'.

Would i follow this wiring diagram:

http://m.seimg.net/product/img/subwoofer_wiring/1_sub_DVC_4_ohm_mono.jpg

3) The Amp contained a booklet separate to the manual called "EMC Compliance Instructions" for C-TICK standards and showed where to put several ferrites filters. Are these necessary? I have not heard of their use before for car audio systems and could not find much info for them for car audio use.

Once again, big thanks!

Mick

[Lolrick]

Come on guys, this wasn't an April fool's

Anyway, I've done some more homework with the resistance. I understand now, with a dual voice coil sub, that you can run parallel to get 2 ohm and you can run in series to get 8 ohm. However, can I wire this for 4 ohm?

Will 500W RMS be too much for a 700W Peak sub?

Thanks guys

Edited April 3, 2014 by Lolrick

[R33shaun]

Hi Guys,

I said I wouldn't, but I seem to have gone out and purchased a sub and amp (second hand but barely used) for the R34, which I'll be installing myself.

Amp is MTX THUNDER500.1 (1000W peak, 300RMS x 1 @ 4 ohms, 500RMS x1 @ 2 ohms)

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-HbQaXv4HzFn/p_236THND5K1/MTX-THUNDER500-1.html#overview-tab

Sub is Option Audio 12' Slimline 700W/350WRMS, with D.C. Coil Resisitance (sic) of 'dual 4.0'

http://www.optionaudio.com.au/specs/12SL11BOX.pdf

I have three questions:

1) Where can I find the cheapest amp wiring kit without risking a random chinese ebay seller? Amp spec calls for 4 gauge with 60 amp fuse. I already have RCA and remote wires, but need speaker wires as well as power wires. Would love to hear your recommendations, otherwise I'll just head to Jaycar.

i would just go to jaycar but most places like supercheap have fairly cheap kits.

2) How do i know the resistance that I am using with the amp? Where can I set this? I can't see a switch. Or is this determined by the speaker that I am connecting it to? (in this case, 4 ohm dual coil) The amp outputs to the speaker say '2 ohm minimum'.

Would i follow this wiring diagram:

http://m.seimg.net/product/img/subwoofer_wiring/1_sub_DVC_4_ohm_mono.jpg

wire it up as per that diagram and you'll be fine just don't turn the amp gain up flat out or you can cook your sub. (google ohms law if you want some insight)

the load (in this case the sub) determines the impedance 'seen' by the amp. 2 x 4ohm voice coils in parallel = 2ohm load

the amp saying 2 ohm min means its only stable driving 2ohm or greater loads (some ore expensive amps can run down to one ohm)

3) The Amp contained a booklet separate to the manual called "EMC Compliance Instructions" for C-TICK standards and showed where to put several ferrites filters. Are these necessary? I have not heard of their use before for car audio systems and could not find much info for them for car audio use.

i wouldnt bother with ferrites my guess is they want you to instal them to stop stray electromagnetic interference from your amp into other nearby electronics (again google magnetism and lenzs law if you want more info) unless your running unshielded sensitive electronics in your car you wont have any dramas

Once again, big thanks

Mick

hope that helps

[R33shaun]

Come on guys, this wasn't an April fool's

Anyway, I've done some more homework with the resistance. I understand now, with a dual voice coil sub, that you can run parallel to get 2 ohm and you can run in series to get 8 ohm. However, can I wire this for 4 ohm?

nope unless you buy another one and wire them both series parallel

Will 500W RMS be too much for a 700W Peak sub?

as i said above just dont turn the gain up flat out on your amp and youll be fine

Thanks guys

[niZmO_Man]

Don't confuse yourself by looking at the peak W rating. Always look at the WRMS @ Ω

The amp will handle the load, so wire it up in parallel as per diagram.

[Lolrick]

hope that helps

Sure did, cheers mate! Will make sure to keep the gain nice and low.

Don't confuse yourself by looking at the peak W rating. Always look at the WRMS @ Ω

The amp will handle the load, so wire it up in parallel as per diagram.

Cheers for the input, will do!

Have you guys got any advice on wires at all? I have no idea what i'm looking for with speaker wire

[niZmO_Man]

Have you guys got any advice on wires at all? I have no idea what i'm looking for with speaker wire

http://ryda.ecomm-search.com/search?Search=2ch+amp+wiring+kit+4ga&Submit=Search

That should do it.

*edit* realised you mentioned you have RCA and remote.

Head down to Jaycar and grab 4-gauge wires for power/ground, and heavy duty speaker cable. They usually sell them by length, so figure out roughly the lengths required. Unfortunately, I can't remember how long the power cables are in my car.

[Lolrick]

http://ryda.ecomm-search.com/search?Search=2ch+amp+wiring+kit+4ga&Submit=Search

That should do it.

*edit* realised you mentioned you have RCA and remote.

Head down to Jaycar and grab 4-gauge wires for power/ground, and heavy duty speaker cable. They usually sell them by length, so figure out roughly the lengths required. Unfortunately, I can't remember how long the power cables are in my car.

Perfect! Any idea why there is a price difference between the two options that came up? And is there really any different between that Stinger kit and this one:

http://www.elite-electronics.com.au/In-Car_Entertainment/Accessories/Amp_Wiring/Stinger_SK6241_4-Gauge_Amplifier_Power_Wiring_Kit

My biggest question though, is the amp specifies a 60A fuse. This seems pretty small compared to what many wiring kits offer (many are at least 120A). How important is it to stick to this? I obviously don't want to melt anything...

[R33shaun]

Perfect! Any idea why there is a price difference between the two options that came up? And is there really any different between that Stinger kit and this one:

http://www.elite-electronics.com.au/In-Car_Entertainment/Accessories/Amp_Wiring/Stinger_SK6241_4-Gauge_Amplifier_Power_Wiring_Kit

My biggest question though, is the amp specifies a 60A fuse. This seems pretty small compared to what many wiring kits offer (many are at least 120A). How important is it to stick to this? I obviously don't want to melt anything...

the fuse for your cable is for overload/short circuit protection of the cable only (like if your positive falls out of the terminal and shorts to ground), it does nothing to protect your amp (itll have a built in fuse for this) as your only running the 1 amp you would have to do something catastrophic to cause an overload fault (the amp fuse will blow first) so the fuse is really just there to blow in a short cct (cut wire, loose terminal etc)

im not sure what the current capacity of 4awg is off the top of my head but i imagine it'd take a few hundred amps to get it hot enough to damage anything so 120a fuse would be fine the 60a recommendation is just saying you shouldnt go smaller than that.

i just bought 4awg cable for my stereo instal from jaycar, it was around $8m, so cable plus lugs and fuse holder were less than $50

[Lolrick]

the fuse for your cable is for overload/short circuit protection of the cable only (like if your positive falls out of the terminal and shorts to ground), it does nothing to protect your amp (itll have a built in fuse for this) as your only running the 1 amp you would have to do something catastrophic to cause an overload fault (the amp fuse will blow first) so the fuse is really just there to blow in a short cct (cut wire, loose terminal etc)

im not sure what the current capacity of 4awg is off the top of my head but i imagine it'd take a few hundred amps to get it hot enough to damage anything so 120a fuse would be fine the 60a recommendation is just saying you shouldnt go smaller than that.

i just bought 4awg cable for my stereo instal from jaycar, it was around $8m, so cable plus lugs and fuse holder were less than $50

Thanks mate, that does all make sense, though the crutchfield page i linked above says it doesn't have an onboard fuse?

How many metres of cable do you use for a skyline? The kits seem to offer pretty good value, especially online. I'm actually hoping to get some with pre-installed o-ring terminals, as i have never soldered before and would feel safer with a factory connection.

[Lolrick]

Don't want to go to Jaycar... my local one, on victoria road rydalmere, has a steep driveway and i think i'd scrape on it...

[niZmO_Man]

Go to another one, or park somewhere else and walk.

[Lolrick]

Do you know if Jaycar can connect the terminals for me on the power and grounding wire? I don't want to risk my own connection for the heavy gauge wiring

I've been sitting on the wiring because I want to get an issue with my fuel pump/sender resolved before i start mounting and wiring in the boot. Thanks for all the input!

[niZmO_Man]

Do it yourself man, it's not that hard. It isn't rocket surgery.

[R33shaun]

not trying to offend you but if you dont think you can crimp a crimp lug your probably better off paying someone to instal it.

[Lolrick]

not trying to offend you but if you dont think you can crimp a crimp lug your probably better off paying someone to instal it.

No offense taken mate, I'm confident crimping the thinner speaker wire, but I feel this thicker stuff should have some solder on this as well, rather than just hammering the terminal on - I don't want a dodgy connection with the power

[niZmO_Man]

I find the thicker wiring better/more secure to crimp lol.

[Lolrick]

Will enlist the help of a professionally qualified mate! I'm getting the fuel gauge looked at on Wednesday-week, so will drop into Jaycar after that is sorted. Cheers!