Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm thinking of going and having a look at this: link

Per your link the VIN number for this car is: 6U900000J50111131 therefore chassis number would be: J50-111131

This does not appear to be a genuine chassis number - check it via your favourite month of production tool. Even if it is, they cannot sell you the car yet because it does not have a compliance plate. But lets see what happens when we change just one digit and make the chassis number: J50-101131

1) We have a compliance plate for this chassis number - interestingly enough complied by a workshop in Abbotsford VIC, the same suburb as listed on the eBay Ad

nl8Lox1.png

2) Auction sheet for this car:

Bh6fCFe.jpg

3rSJzmWs.jpg 6swhi3ks.jpg

Sold at CAA Chubu for 1,558,000 yen

Please note I am not suggesting that this is necessarily the same car - you could only tell by going to the dealership and checking the VIN by looking at the compliance plate.

My point is - be very careful and do your homework.

  • 5 months later...

Hey guys this is my first post (only recently started to read these forums) but just wanted to let others know about the experience I’ve had with the car in this thread and the dealer Carizma in Melbourne.

I saw this car about a month ago and was very interested, being unaware of the issue of odometer tampering on imports at the time. After being reassured by the dealer (Ross from Carizma) that the odometer reading of c.26,900km on this car was genuine, decided to put a deposit. I first felt something was off when the KM’s were not on the export certificate (tried to attach below, chassis number J50-101131 matches the auction sheet above) provided by Carizma and when I asked the dealer, they told me that the "17738" was probably the KM’s when it clearly was not. These guys have been in the business for over 15 years so alarm bells started ringing when they acted like they didn't know how to read an export certificate. After I told them I wasn't comfortable purchasing the car without a valid document stating the KM’s, they refused to refund my deposit but offered to import a car for me.

That process hasn't gone too well either but I won’t go into that here, honestly would just like my deposit back, but these guys keep refusing so I will go through Consumer Affairs or VCAT. Hopefully this helps someone else looking to buy this crossover and as with dodgyimports point above – be very careful and do your homework.

Edited by uncledrew
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 years later...
On 4/3/2014 at 12:09 PM, dodgyimports said:

Per your link the VIN number for this car is: 6U900000J50111131 therefore chassis number would be: J50-111131

This does not appear to be a genuine chassis number - check it via your favourite month of production tool. Even if it is, they cannot sell you the car yet because it does not have a compliance plate. But lets see what happens when we change just one digit and make the chassis number: J50-101131

1) We have a compliance plate for this chassis number - interestingly enough complied by a workshop in Abbotsford VIC, the same suburb as listed on the eBay Ad

nl8Lox1.png

2) Auction sheet for this car:

Bh6fCFe.jpg

3rSJzmWs.jpg 6swhi3ks.jpg

Sold at CAA Chubu for 1,558,000 yen

Please note I am not suggesting that this is necessarily the same car - you could only tell by going to the dealership and checking the VIN by looking at the compliance plate.

My point is - be very careful and do your homework.

Hi! I would like to check Action sheet for imported car that I would like to purchase. How can I get Action sheet? Thank you.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not going to lie. When I just saw this, for a moment I thought it was an interior shot of a VN Commodore...
    • Noice Once exhaust leak is sorted post vids for audible sexy time The thing should be a laugh riot to drive
    • Nah, apparently the way to do it is just mess with how much timing the engine uses to try to correct idle. So it massively undershoots, then overshoots, then undershoots, then overshoots. So timing is going from 5deg to 45deg to 5 deg to 45deg. But I kinda prefer the car to not lurch around and have a dependable idle. Given it didn't idle for shit and stalled about 7 times on the way home, still yet to drive it for the 2nd time to see if it's fixed.
    • Best chop idle FTW, just add an idle timing hole lol
    • Alright. Many little things have been sorted and the car successfully drove home with an incredibly huge exhaust leak. Unsure if it's simply been awhile, but new heads and cam and intake sound f**kin awesome. It might only be me that notices it though, and it's hard to tell from a 15 minute gauntlet run home and attempting to bleed the radiator. Undertrays on, tools out, road brake pads in, idle un-f***ed, time to do some road tuning. From my commute around town it sounds and drives *really* nice (with a max of like 35% throttle). It'll go to a dyno for a proper before and after once the tune is more roughly dialled in. And @Dose Pipe Sutututu I did learn how to do a proper chop tune at idle. I did indeed even do it, but the car shaking around at idle from the driverr seat made me make it smooth again.. I feared for my engine mounts and clerances to engine bay jank. . After the exhaust is fixed I may mess around with it more. I'm just happy to have it drive around without bucking or stalling which is a WIP.
×
×
  • Create New...