Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah for the 1jz....figure if i can merge the stock manifolds into a twin scrolll should yield some decent results in a tidy package...

heaps of external gate options but trying to keep it simple for packaging sake...something i can mount low under a stock looking heat shield would be nice...

I did think of the EVO turbo actually, Think it could work ok?

Not by joining the two factory manifolds...ive seen nothing but rubbish results doing it that way.

Won't be atrue twin scroll anyway.

I'd either have a log manifold made up, or if you want it standard looking. Either find a hks t3g setup (good luck) or have stao rebuild the ct12a's

..it will be true twin scroll if merged properly....3 cylinders into each scroll

have seen twin ct12 results and they aren't flash...though stock they do make quite a bit of power...but they are pricey.. 1000 each for hiflows...so theres 2 k that would buy me a 7670 that could make 400kws..whether or not this would be possible with those stock manifolds I don't know..but if 400kws can be pushed through an RB log I dont see why its not plausible.

..it will be true twin scroll if merged properly....3 cylinders into each scroll

True but 3 cylinders will be firing through the worlds worst turbo manifolds in existence. ...they are laughable...if you dont believe me pull them off and have a look.

One result that stands out is a 1j manual soarer with a gt30..peak boost 20psi at 5500rpm or later and made 230rwkws and just would not take anymore than a few degrees timing...there was no doubt other issues..but still...I will happily enjoy my etm manifold when it arrives

woah!!! didnt realize a JZZ30 was that heavy...

theres one cressida running 11s on stock turbs...10s with nos....hes selling most of his setup at the moment actually....if only i had some play cash

I will be sticking with the stockies for a while anyway ,probably just try tune them for e85.....twin scroll thing was just an idea running through my head...

get a good dump pipe

makes a huge difference

haha, yeah thats what he was selling...I'll get Scotty to knock me one up later..

that and i have some 750cc injectors and Eflex sensor...assuming my old tin tank isn't full of rust...

was about the only mods i have planned for the near future...

yeah that idea was considered, i also considered twin gates off the j-pipe as well into a twin scroll tdo6h ...but with both its too messy and too much work It would be easier and more beneficial to go with a proper manifold...

a simple J pipe into twin scroll IG turbo is the only option I am willing to entertain, that way if its a flop I could easy swap to better manifold and keep the turbo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is the clearest explanation out of those: Page 77: Turn the crankshaft clockwise two full rotations with the tensioner pulley installation bolt in a loose condition. Insert a wrench into the tensioner pulley hexagonal hole to fix the tensioner pulley in place, then tighten the installation bolts. Tightening torque: 43–58 N·m (4.4–5.9 kg·m). The timing belt tension should be at the correct tension. Basically you turn the engine with the tensioner bolt loose, then use the allen key to hold it while you torque it up. And yes after that a good guide is being able to twist it 90o in one of the long free lengths of the belt
    • good choice....I have a set of those and use them all the time including on this job. Plus, no-one wants a damaged nipple
    • Thanks all, went with nismo strengthened belt and all genuine nissan idler and tensioner Question on RB25DET Neo Timing Tensioner: I have a question about the RB25DET Neo timing tensioner. In one of the videos (minute 20 of https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=17y37BB9xnA and minute 27 of https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pb99s2E9xUg), the process suggests tightening the tensioner pulley installation bolt to the specified torque initially, and then loosening it slightly to allow the spring to set the correct tension. Is this the correct approach? The R33 workshop manual on page 74 states: Loosen the tension pulley installation nuts. Insert the wrench into the tensioner pulley hexagonal hole and turn it clockwise to tighten the installation nut temporarily. The way this is written is confusing. Does this mean: Undo the nut, then reduce the tension by turning clockwise? Snug the nut so it stays in position without applying tension to the belt while removing the timing belt? The manual wording makes it sound like the nut will tighten automatically when you turn the tensioner clockwise , which is unclear to me.   Timing Belt Tension Adjustment Process: After loosening the tensioner nut, you turn the engine two full rotations by hand, which should set the correct tension. Once the tension is set, you tighten the bolt to 43 N·m (4.4 kg·m). Before tightening, you need to insert the Allen key into the hexagonal hole to hold the pulley in place while tightening the bolt. In one of the videos, it’s mentioned that you should twist the belt side to side, or turn it slightly to check if the tension is correct. The belt should turn halfway, indicating the right tension. However, I know that twisting or turning the belt is not a good idea. What are your thoughts on this? Finally, how can I ensure the belt isn’t overtightened? I’ve seen many cases where people have overtightened the timing belt.   Manual Excerpts: Page 74: Loosen the tension pulley installation nuts. Insert the wrench into the tensioner pulley hexagonal hole and turn it clockwise to tighten the installation nut temporarily. Remove the timing belt from each pulley. Page 77: Turn the crankshaft clockwise two full rotations with the tensioner pulley installation bolt in a loose condition. Insert a wrench into the tensioner pulley hexagonal hole to fix the tensioner pulley in place, then tighten the installation bolts. Tightening torque: 43–58 N·m (4.4–5.9 kg·m). The timing belt tension should be at the correct tension.
    • Takes a few minutes to malke one. Wood, or steel, or a wrap strap with some strategically placed solids to provide teh drive onto the ribs.
    • I would strongly suggest using the correct tool. They are not expensive and make the job much easier and don't damage the lock ring. Google "fuel tank lock ring removal tool" to see what I'm talking about. 
×
×
  • Create New...