Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

cheers Jas...

i know Stao has been making Highflow EVO turbos as well...maybe its an option

what about this?

http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/kinugawaturbohyundaigenesistd05h16g300ps-4-3-1-1.aspx

or

http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/kinugawaturbohyundaigenesistd05h16g300ps-4-3-1.aspx

whats the difference is between 10.5 and 11.5 trim I assume the 11.5 is a bigger exhaust housing.. looking at the reverse scroll of the evo housing itwould make for much more effective fitment

is turbine housing going to flow a 2.5lt though?

basically my old turbo with a twin scroll rear....lol

or this big huffer for the lols.... :D

http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/kinugawa4turbochargergt3582withar117twinentrydividedt4housing600p.aspx

Garret have a great range for the GT30's now, here are a few new external ones I saw recently... Do it Artz.

yeah I saw those...this plus GTX turbos with twin 40mm gates could be good....getting pricey though and you know I'm a poor kent..

the evo turbo looks like my best option for what i want so far...

10.5T and 11.5T refer to the cm2 area of the turbine housing.

For reference a 12cm2 is roughly .82, so the 11.5 should be nice on your JZ with a healthy turbine.

The 10.5 is what is used OEM in evo's 5, 6, 8MR and 9. All other twin scroll models use a 9cm2 (9T)

My emo7 had a 10.5, unless it had been changed at some stage? I doubt it, as the car was stock as a rock.

Had been changed.

Unless its an RS, then absolutely everything about the car was an option.

10.5T and 11.5T refer to the cm2 area of the turbine housing.

For reference a 12cm2 is roughly .82, so the 11.5 should be nice on your JZ with a healthy turbine.

The 10.5 is what is used OEM in evo's 5, 6, 8MR and 9. All other twin scroll models use a 9cm2 (9T) Evo 4s had a 9T while 7s and 8s a 9.8T

just need to fix my own post, realised i had a memory lapse.

Evo 4 was the first one with the engine turned around and a reverse rotation twin scroll turbine housing , they used the smallest or 9 cm housing . 5 had from memory an optional 10.5 for the RS can't remember other variants . AFAIK 6s all used the 10.5cm housing even the TMEs with the smaller 15GK compressor wheel . The larger and heavier Cedia based 7and some 8s used a slightly smaller 9.8cm turbine house to get back some of the squirt the 4g63T lost with tightening emissions legislation in 2001 . From memory 8MRs had the 10.5 standard as did most 9s which all had inlet VCT to pull the bottom end up .

There are aftermarket 11.5 housings which works well on std turbos with exhaust upgrades . The 8s and 9 had a revised version of the 10.5cm turbine housing using a single flap and mirror imaged D shaped outlets like the TSIW EFR housings . The early ones had two holes and two flaps and most have probably cracked now anyway .

So the story goes the Evo turbos were the closest production turbos got to being a true competition unit especially the small comp wheel types for restricted rally engines anyway . Not exactly a TR30R but I don't think any other manufacturer got as close - for Grp A rally anyway .

One 7 I know of goes pretty well with an 11.5 housing on a bog stock turbo . On a 9 spec turbo with the larger comp housing and diffuser it should have gone better . The best overall was supposed to be the second series 9RS turbos with the Titanium Aluminide turbine and the super back or tulip shaped if you like magnesium compressor wheel . The early version had a flat backed comp wheel and these can lunch themselves if leaned on too hard .

The TiAL turbine is said to be boost limited and if you overdo it the wheel separates from the shaft destroying itself . These 9RS turbos are supposed to boost 3-500 revs sooner than a conventional 9 units and its possible the 11.5cm turbine housing puts that back near standard but with less exhaust restriction .

A .

Buy the EFR!

My 8374 .92a/r is the best engine part I've ever bought!

Fantastic response, great top end power, big torque curve.......and more response than the dyno plots show by far.

  • Like 1

Buy the EFR!

My 8374 .92a/r is the best engine part I've ever bought!

Fantastic response, great top end power, big torque curve.......and more response than the dyno plots show by far.

have you fixed your boost creep issue with the internal wastegate ?

haha bolt on kit...nice!....still not twin scroll though and not sure i like the design of that manifold..def seems to work though..

anyway have found hiflow ct12s for around 1500, good for 300kws...so have given up on the twin scroll idea, still think it could work well though..

I'm just going to flog the stockies till they blow or I tire of them :P

don't mess around with the Evo turbo chargers. It will simply choke your engine. The turbine housings are too small.

Just grab yourself an EFR turbocharger, and live with amazing boost response, and fantastic power.

I don't think you realise how little a true twin scroll actually improves response compared to a single Artz. Some think it is the same as simply running a smaller housing. I can't say I have tried one myself, but it's a lot of work for little gain...

There would be more response gain going to an EFR Ti wheel turbo imo.

yep.. so use the Efr turbo with twin scroll, its not going to be any worse is it....!

how could it not work... What about Owen...did the twin scroll gtx3076...you telling me that didn't work?..problem.with the smaller housing is you are sacrificing top end, while a twin scroll while you can have you cake and eat it too...

And making a twin scroll manifold is no harder than making the manifold in that eBay advert...it would just merge a little differently into a t3 or t4 twin flange instead of merging into single pipe

Its not alot of extra work at all..

Anyway dont worry, im not building it so you won't have to make me any whacky manifolds...was just an idea, I still think it's a good one

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So we have most the interior back in, and for the first time with one OEM speaker hooked up. The 31 is running, driving and now tunes!!! Hahaha yet another step for the sub that sat 10m under for two weeks!!! unbelievable really 👌 lots of love work and not giving up on her. Seen so many youngsters part way less, and in way better condition. I’m stubborn, thinking another problem is just a hurdle to overcome, One at a time. IMG_9277.mov
    • That is correct. I'm using a modified ABS ring and a ZF speed sensor on my rear diff for speed input. I'm running a Haltech ecu. 
    • Been busy with the newborn. We originally thought we were going to go for a third, but we're good with two lol. He's starting to actually sleep now so I've had some energy to work on the car. It's been parked away in the garage since late November due to winter.  I went ahead and redid all my head oil drains. I originally had my front and rear head drain going into the same pipe but have since split them up. I also added an Ethanol content sensor to get ready to run E85 this summer. Tossed it on my return line. Sensor sits nicely under my intake manifold.    I also have a lot of parts that came in for my rear end. I'll be swapping over to a 3.3 final drive and doing the GK teck anti squat mod. While the rear subframe is off, I'll also change every bushing. We're planning on buying another house soon with the condition that I get at a minimum a 2 door garage, so I'll wait to have more room for this. Now onto the strange things that recently happened... After changing the lower rad hose (It had been sitting in my cabinet for well over a year and was the last hose I had to replace), I let the car idle in the garage to bleed my coolant. After running for a few minutes, it started missing. Got much worst within a minute or two and then stalled and would not restart. My crank sensor decided to crap itself. No damage, no explanation, just died. I went ahead and replaced it with another ZF sensor but the heavier duty stainless model with a shield. Tossed that in and started right up. Has anyone else seen this? I hate when things fail without cause. Luckily this was a blessing in disguise... This lead me to recheck my timing. It seems I may have had a beer or two the last time I had set my TDC angle as I was off exactly 5 degrees... I miscounted a line haha. I was running 5 degrees less then commanded. It's a little embarrassing but helps explain why my dyno operator seemed to think I should be making more then 478rwkws.        
    • Sharing results from recent Liberty Walk R35 GTR, since they are still considered as somesort of a V36 Skyline. We do them turbos too. This are high flowed SS-1 models with ball bearing conversion done.  Car have managed to pull 485awkws @ 20Psi so far pushing limitations of factory built engine. The build list for R35 GTR enthusiasts as follow : HyperGear high flowed stock turbos in SS1 (G25-660 specs) Custom titanium intake pipes. Vspec performance titanium front pipes. Vspec performance 4" titanium exhaust. Upgrade fuel pumps. 1200cc injectors. Ignition coilpacks Hks intake plenum. Hks intercooler piping. Greddy intercooler. Greddy bovs. Top-secret coolant reservoir. Emtron ecu. Straight E85. Built gear box.  
    • Nah no bearings, just slip fit.  Would be a reasonably challenging but not impossible job to modify it to run bearings but I'm hoping that's not necessary as I may have well built one myself if I end up spending hours modifying it!
×
×
  • Create New...