Jump to content
SAU Community

Fresh Built Rb25Det Lifter Noise?

s213b

By s213b,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

s213b Rising Star

s213b

Posted
Posted

I've got a fresh built forged 25 in my 32. Standard head expect for super tec valve springs and tomei 264 cams WITH vct operated via a window switch.

The car has a very noticeable 'tick' to it, it's very audible at idle. My tuner told me it was the window switch which seemed strange?

Could it be a lifter? The tuner also noticed it was super noisy on first start but slowly quietened once it started to bed in.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441469-fresh-built-rb25det-lifter-noise/
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted (edited)

How thoroughly were the lifters cleaned out during the rebuild and rebled during installation?

Regular (per revolution) ticking will not be the window switch. if it is, and it is cycling that often, it will probably kill your VCT solenoid quick smart, so you'd want to look into that pronto. But you could check it yourself in 5 seconds by disconnecting the solenoid. If it keeps ticking, then it's not the solenoid changing state.

If the ticking is coming from a valve/lifter, you should be able to use a hose stethoscope to locate the noise to one part of the engine or another. Surprisingly useful tool is a 2' length of garden hose.

Edited by GTSBoy
  • Like 1
FordyR31 Mentor

FordyR31

Posted
Posted

A mate had a similar thing happen when he built a 25DET with forged pistons. He described the sound as "piston slap" i had never heard the term before and have not heard of it since. His noise was only at idle and would become noticably quieter as the car warmed to running temp.

Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

Yuh, piston slap is exactly that. Forged pistons expand more than cast as they warm up, so the cold clearances are greater and they whack the sides of the bores a bit when cold.

Only if they're shit!

A good piston should require no more than 2 thou piston to bore.

LaurelPWR Rising Star

LaurelPWR

Posted
Posted

I'm feeling your pain dude....I have massive loud top end ticking noise for the first 30 seconds of cold start up... My motor had no lifter noise prior to Nizzpro re building it after I blew the head gasket. (It drove and held Boost perfectly with milkshake oil)

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

Yeah my nismo 740s are alot louder then my old 555s. Sometimes think its lifter tick but everytime I look its injectors

I spent ages cleaning my lifters, pressed out the old oil, soaked them in petrol for a few days then washed them in a parts washer. Cleaned all the stuff off then chucked them in oil for about 3 weeks while I was waiting to get the head back (and pumped them to get some oil into them)

Dale FZ1 Veteran

Dale FZ1

Posted
Posted

Soakingdisassembled lifters in solvent or thinners works wonders, then scrub them with a toothbrush to remove all oil varnish. Make sure they are fully collapsed when reassembling. Seems to let them fill with oil much easier when you have the first startup.

OP you will know easily enough the difference between lifters and injectors by the noise they make.

s213b Rising Star

s213b

Posted
  • Author
Posted

My injectors do tick, but it's not that either.

It's a very loud, very crisp 'tick'.

Going back to engine builder tomorrow, my tuner keeps telling me to basically not worry about it, after 1000k's it'll 'bed in?' Sounds dodgy to me, a lifter should bed in as soon as its got oil pressure 10 seconds after first start up.

On another note car made 270kw on run in tune at 15 psi with a spike to 17-18. 681nm too. Can't wait to sort this problem and get the final tune done with 23-24psi

s213b Rising Star

s213b

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Do as suggested. Rev the engine and then when the revs are dropping off throttle and there is no injection occuring that will completly rule out injectors

it's not the injectors

It does it worse when cold, accel or decel it does it. It's a loud (audible from 20m's away over exhaust sound with bonnet shut) on idle does about 2 ticks per second.

I can head my injectors (sound like a 72 tooth ratchet) much more frequent and quiet.

I'm convinced this is a fked lifter. Going back to engine builder today so he can have a listen. I just hope nothing's damaged my brand new tomei cams

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...