Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Possibly. But I dont understand if he was so sure it was lifters from day 1, why not just go to engine builder or take out/swap lifters from the start

I had a lifter on my VL shatter part of the head off (they are a top hat looking lifter) and it had horrible lifter tick. So I pulled them out to see what the problem was, found a rather large part of lifter near a cam lobe. Replaced lifters and put it back together etc and everything was fine, cam still looked like new. But I must have been really lucky

Aren't new cams 'soft' and require temp and oil to harden up & bed in?

Having a cam bucket slap against brand new cams couldn't be good.

After spending almost 20k on engine parts, engine labour, brand new turbo, brand new fuel system, efi system and ignition system + a tune, you'd expect clockwork precision

Better yet, take it to your engine builder as you indicated you planned to do, and get his diagnosis.

Were the lifters disassembled and cleaned during this build? If they weren't, and are the cause of the noise, it's clear what needs to happen to cure the problem.

I've had this same problem with a reco head (valve grind, cleanup and surface)

On the pfc it showed little-zero knock under load, and spliked to near 60 when decelerating!

New lifters and all good. Back to the super smooth rb sound.

That would be before they are all varnished up and making noises.

Provided OP gets a proper, reliable diagnosis, the solution is clear.

Cams out, lifters out, disassemble and scrub clean with suitable solvent. Reassemble and enjoy a silent top end with zero lash.

Unfortunately that costs money for anyone unable/unwilling to do it themselves.

Aren't new cams 'soft' and require temp and oil to harden up & bed in?

Having a cam bucket slap against brand new cams couldn't be good.

After spending almost 20k on engine parts, engine labour, brand new turbo, brand new fuel system, efi system and ignition system + a tune, you'd expect clockwork precision

Unfortunately as you might have found out, simply spending a lot of money does not equal a good trouble free result, there's much more to it than that.

I hope you can sort it out soon.

That would be before they are all varnished up and making noises.

Provided OP gets a proper, reliable diagnosis, the solution is clear.

Cams out, lifters out, disassemble and scrub clean with suitable solvent. Reassemble and enjoy a silent top end with zero lash.

Unfortunately that costs money for anyone unable/unwilling to do it themselves.

Spoke to my builder, everything was sonic bathed before it went back in. I have reason to believe there is more too the issue... There are fingers being pointed, and not in the builders direction. All I'm going to say at the moment, will keep everyone posted

Short of pulling it down I have seen suggestions of running a diesel (high detergent) oil in your engine for a while as a possible cure.

The cheapest fix i've 'actually' done to fix 'very loud' lifter noise was the product by Pro-ma called MBL8. Heaps of mechanics i've talked to swear by this stuff...and it really did fix my kronic lifter noise....its $50 bucks....worth a shot before removal of lifters.

Edited by Badgaz

Ive tried the diesel oil thing, did come out rather black considering it was only in there for about 20mins or idling and free revving... Unsure if it did anything useful though

Ive tried the diesel oil thing, did come out rather black considering it was only in there for about 20mins or idling and free revving... Unsure if it did anything useful though

By a while I meant for a couple of weeks!

I can really use diesel oil that long

Yes if you get the right weight. I have used it (Agip) in my RB30 including a track day (on Motul 10W 40 300V chrono now though)but probably best not to use on track ...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
×
×
  • Create New...