Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...

i have an r33 gtst, does anyone know if a gtr one will fit straight in. I know the stock gtst one is 80amp and a gtr one is 90amp and i know that the positive bolt post is a bit bigger, i think gtst is 6mm and a gtr one is 8mm so that wont be a problem for me but i need to know which GTR one will bolt straight in to my R33 GTST, an R32 GTR or R33 GTR or an R34 GTR one

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441473-r33-alternator/#findComment-7276089
Share on other sites

a31/c33,32,33,c34 stagea will work, the 2 pin plug is the same, the ground hole might be a tad different nothing a drill cant fix and the positive terminal can be flipped and used the opposite way if you have tabs on each end (or just trimmed ), might also need a slight drill pending application

ebay says r31 fits r33./r32 so i'd figure so

test your alt by putting a multimeter probe on the positive terminal on the alternator and the other on the neg bat/jumper terminal to confirm its not wiring like mine was

Edited by Dan_J
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441473-r33-alternator/#findComment-7276113
Share on other sites

Have you tried looking at higher amperage after market alternators or example as follows with current price description and where to buy;

Advance 130A for R33 to R34 / black case with red pulley $ 574.18 plus freight

or

RH9 hyper-alternator 130A for RB, SR , VG series Nissan engines / silver case with blue inserts & pulley $ 554.34 freight.

from www.rhdjapan.com

just quote for either alternator from Compatibility list the more info the better and they will match to car model & engine type eg; RB25det etc.

Just remember to run heavier battery cable or get auto electrician to check your current set up

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441473-r33-alternator/#findComment-7280371
Share on other sites

thanks for the info, i do want to eventually get a big aftermarket one cos i do have alot of audio equipment sitting there waiting to put in and its all old school kicker stuff that requires alot of power inlike there newer class D stuff but just for the moment i want to put a gtr one in cos mine is not working properly i think. And yeah im going to run all new wiring even on this alternator so when i do get a big aftermarket one it will be ready to go straight in. I actually started a new thread about wiring upgrade, i want to just use 8 gauge for the positive and negative and use stinger terminals and not the crimp on style ones i mean the proper thick allen key type ones but im not sure how the terminals will fit cos they must sit correct cos its not like you can bend these type of terminals to fit

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441473-r33-alternator/#findComment-7280645
Share on other sites

Yep, over the past few years, I've bought 2 S2 engines and an S1 from a crashed stock skyline that I bought for parts, and both S2's had 80amp alternators and the S1 had a 90amp.

I even did a search on this forum which told me pretty much the same.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441473-r33-alternator/#findComment-7284667
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep that's pretty much what I want to see. Racecars that look and sound like the Group A but with newer tech underneath to make them faster and safer. I'm sure there's enough VK-to-VN commodore, E30 BMWs and Foxbody mustangs shells around to make up a decent number of cars with hopefully a couple of sierras, rx7 and R31s in there too. 
    • Contact Jessestreeter.com/Skevas Racing/JustJap for a new r34 rb gearbox or go a cd00# conversion. No point playing with unknown condition gearboxes.
    • Such a shame places like Amaroo Park have been redeveloped, smaller tracks always make for good racing. Cheers for sharing @PranK there's some good Lakeside video's too. Its so hard with older the cars as parts are so rare and everything was made for a particular chassis at that point in time. Even the V8 Supercar Blueprint era cars are all different between each chassis within a team as they learnt things and made improvements. The COTF cars between each Chassis builder is different too especially motor/oil systems/intakes. The Group A stuff is worth so much too especially chassis with good history. The only way to do it would be composite panels and similar engine drivelines to the original cars. Ford sierra running Focus RS driveline, Commodore running a short stroke LS/LT or a Falcon with coyote and a H Pattern dog box. Could use a standard ecu across all models with a Torque Map and DBW for parity which is not even used in Supercars currently. Hell a TCM is almost a full chassis car these days and the suspension is not even close to standard style in the front running cars.  
    • Dashcams Australia (13/05/25) captured JDMHSE (Vic plate) being a right tosser. 
    • Wish someone would start a racing series for Group A replica cars, a bit like Touring Car Masters but for 1985 onwards and not grandpa's falcon and/or Monaro. I know they race in some historic class but that's for original cars, no replicas allowed.
×
×
  • Create New...