Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...

i have an r33 gtst, does anyone know if a gtr one will fit straight in. I know the stock gtst one is 80amp and a gtr one is 90amp and i know that the positive bolt post is a bit bigger, i think gtst is 6mm and a gtr one is 8mm so that wont be a problem for me but i need to know which GTR one will bolt straight in to my R33 GTST, an R32 GTR or R33 GTR or an R34 GTR one

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441473-r33-alternator/#findComment-7276089
Share on other sites

a31/c33,32,33,c34 stagea will work, the 2 pin plug is the same, the ground hole might be a tad different nothing a drill cant fix and the positive terminal can be flipped and used the opposite way if you have tabs on each end (or just trimmed ), might also need a slight drill pending application

ebay says r31 fits r33./r32 so i'd figure so

test your alt by putting a multimeter probe on the positive terminal on the alternator and the other on the neg bat/jumper terminal to confirm its not wiring like mine was

Edited by Dan_J
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441473-r33-alternator/#findComment-7276113
Share on other sites

Have you tried looking at higher amperage after market alternators or example as follows with current price description and where to buy;

Advance 130A for R33 to R34 / black case with red pulley $ 574.18 plus freight

or

RH9 hyper-alternator 130A for RB, SR , VG series Nissan engines / silver case with blue inserts & pulley $ 554.34 freight.

from www.rhdjapan.com

just quote for either alternator from Compatibility list the more info the better and they will match to car model & engine type eg; RB25det etc.

Just remember to run heavier battery cable or get auto electrician to check your current set up

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441473-r33-alternator/#findComment-7280371
Share on other sites

thanks for the info, i do want to eventually get a big aftermarket one cos i do have alot of audio equipment sitting there waiting to put in and its all old school kicker stuff that requires alot of power inlike there newer class D stuff but just for the moment i want to put a gtr one in cos mine is not working properly i think. And yeah im going to run all new wiring even on this alternator so when i do get a big aftermarket one it will be ready to go straight in. I actually started a new thread about wiring upgrade, i want to just use 8 gauge for the positive and negative and use stinger terminals and not the crimp on style ones i mean the proper thick allen key type ones but im not sure how the terminals will fit cos they must sit correct cos its not like you can bend these type of terminals to fit

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441473-r33-alternator/#findComment-7280645
Share on other sites

Yep, over the past few years, I've bought 2 S2 engines and an S1 from a crashed stock skyline that I bought for parts, and both S2's had 80amp alternators and the S1 had a 90amp.

I even did a search on this forum which told me pretty much the same.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441473-r33-alternator/#findComment-7284667
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good points thanks. Unfortunately I can't seem to rename this or delete the topic. Seems like I'll ask the moderators to change it or delete it.
    • You might want to update the thread title.  V37 ≠ V36.  And it probably isn't a G37 unless it is 2012+ Ininiti or LHD.
    • Just a basic run down of the relevant bolt-ons. All e85 First graph 406.9whp is HKS GT-RS, HPI manifold, 3" bell mouth dump / 3" straight through fake cat / 3" all the way to the rear and no resonators, nismo 740cc, walbro 460, oem RB26 itb's, power fc, eboost2, Greddy Spec M fmic, poncams, Turbosmart actuator, splitfires, ARD 150amp alternator. Blue line is same as above but Blitz Dual SBC (before i upgraded to eboost2) and 100cell "high flow" cat. Red line is after installing eboost2 and the fake 3" cat (it's just a 3" pipe with a cat shell welded onto it). Huge gains in response, as can be seen. Black dots are a mates sr20 with almost identical setup but uses a garrett 2871 instead oh HKS. Next grapghn 466.6whp is same as above, but HKS 2835 Pro S with the larger .87ar turbine housing, the special HKS Pro S dump pipe into a HPI split dual 2.5" front pipe and the rest stayed as is. Red line is after I welded the actuator brackets. (It was originally bolted together and was moving a couple millimetres under load). Green line is obviously before I welded the bracket, no other changes. 100whp gain at 3750rpm, massive gain for such a simple fix. Third graph is my current setup, huge changes. 469.7whp R31house twin scroll manifold, twin TiAl 38mm gates, Forced Performance (USA) HTA3076 with 1.01ar twin scroll rear housing, Link Fury+ and loom by 12volt, PRP trigger kit and r35 coil kit with r35 splitfire coils, HKS step 1 vct staggered cams, new oem lifters and performance springs, 49mm itb's w/port matched Nismo plenum, twin walbro 460 surge tank setup + 1650cc injectors, HKS Type R S13 600x300x103mm fmic, individual egt's, 4" turbo back with no resonators or cat and AES true straight through muffler + 4" butterfly off the dump pipe lower 90° bend. It's a preliminary tune with no boost control with using 20psi gate springs and 4" butterfly closed. Once body loom and PDM is compete, will go for 30psi tune.
    • Power light apparently functions as a transmission error light, you can try the power sequence to read any codes from the transmission control unit.  
×
×
  • Create New...