Jump to content
SAU Community

Sau Vs Qeo Qr Sprint Day 07-06-14


Cadmoon
 Share

Recommended Posts

Question:

Do you figure I could pay once, but take 2 different cars out? Assuming Boz would drive one of course.

I'm not sure what QR's rules on that would be, I believe they only allow 1 car per driver.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not sure what QR's rules on that would be, I believe they only allow 1 car per driver.

I thought that it was the other way around. 1 driver can have a few cars, but additional drivers need to pay. McFly had the pinny and the wedge out last time IIRC.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I thought that it was the other way around. 1 driver can have a few cars, but additional drivers need to pay. McFly had the pinny and the wedge out last time IIRC.

That was lakeside. Not sure how that worked. I drive one out and he drove the other. Time permitting I may come watch.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm opening this up to other clubs tonight guys so if you were undecided jump on it quick as I intent to fill all remaining spots.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm defs in mike will get the money in no later the 1 week beforehand.

Also where are the forms that we have to fill out?

HERE Zeke, you have to create a login account and purchase a licence for this year (if you don't already have one) then select the SAU event on the 07-06-2014. They need you to give credit card details but the page says no money will be charged to you as the session has already been paid for. Could everyone who is confirmed as coming please fill this form out.

Also Carl from the Evo guys has people to fill our remaining spots so anyone who is thinking about coming make up your mind ASAP.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OH all right, but I will be letting the datsun team down a bit I feel. I am a skyline owner at heart maybe?

I'll buy a Nissan badge for you if you stick it on the R8 :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awww shucks. Boz, you in? If not, I will need someone to drive one of the cars there... :(

I'll drive one there if you let me drive the one you're not in on the track :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The two diagrams are equivalent. The R32 one is just one sheet out of about 3 showing everything in the whole car all at once. And without knowing the functionality that occurs in the modules, they are both equally opaque.
    • 8v - 2.48ms 9v - 2.15ms 10v - 1.74ms 11v - 1.41ms 12v - 1.15ms 13v - 0.99ms 14v - 0.89ms 15v - 0.82ms 16v - 0.81ms I'm running these values on my RB20 Neo with 570cc Denso R35 stock jets and it's great. Also bought a set for my Legnum VR4, love these injectors!
    • Thanks for your reply,  Those blue/green wires running to the actuator aren't attached to anything, so I'm not sure how the central locking is still working. I will have to take a good look tomorrow, I don't have the car with me. After googling it seems like a pretty common aftermarket actuator which even uses the same green/blue wires the immobiliser required. i'll test everything tomorrow and if it's working i'll melt the solder, strip it, resolder and neaten it all up with some heat shrink. I don't have to understand it if it works hahaha I just don't want a fire/ short circuit. That R32 diagram looks more like a continuity chart? Can you make sense of this form the R34 manual? 10V is probably due to very flat battery, i'll recheck as well tomorrow, I did have to jump start it haha. Thanks again!  
    • So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
×
×
  • Create New...