Jump to content
SAU Community

Sau Vs Qeo Qr Sprint Day 07-06-14


Cadmoon
 Share

Recommended Posts

For reference, my first time with only 95awkw and only no handling mods fetched me 67 secs, all be it in a lighter car.

I think I should be around that mark, I'd like to get close to 60 but I'm not sure how feasible that is.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think I should be around that mark, I'd like to get close to 60 but I'm not sure how feasible that is.

Probably not on street tires unless you are a gun driver, the R35's that i have seen do like 56-57 seconds, but never say never :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Probably not on street tires unless you are a gun driver, the R35's that i have seen do like 56-57 seconds, but never say never :)

Will be running RSR's on the day but an R compound would obviously be better. I think I lack the power to get really good times at QR..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Will be running RSR's on the day but an R compound would obviously be better. I think I lack the power to get really good times at QR..

Yer, im hoping for 62-63 on toyo R888's, but have you been to lakeside? Its so much better of a track, plus power doesn't make as much of a difference there, in saying that the sprint track and clubmans track at QR aren't to bad for low power cars either

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yer, im hoping for 62-63 on toyo R888's, but have you been to lakeside? Its so much better of a track, plus power doesn't make as much of a difference there, in saying that the sprint track and clubmans track at QR aren't to bad for low power cars either

Done lots of happy laps at LP and one sprint day that turned into a swim meet. I was running normal 595's that day so I think me best time was about a 79 or something.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Done lots of happy laps at LP and one sprint day that turned into a swim meet. I was running normal 595's that day so I think me best time was about a 79 or something.

thats not bad for wet lap on street tires, that would be a hairy out there near the cliffs and walls hahaha,

also i think there will be some really quick cars out there at qr next weekend, if you haven't heard of it gools evo should be out there, it runs like 52 seconds lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thats not bad for wet lap on street tires, that would be a hairy out there near the cliffs and walls hahaha,

also i think there will be some really quick cars out there at qr next weekend, if you haven't heard of it gools evo should be out there, it runs like 52 seconds lol

Was very hairy, 595 are known for being total shit in the wet, some of our guys did some very good times though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Cadmoon, I know of 2 previous members in near stock 32 gtst's with suspension mods run around 63 to 65 seconds consistently. You should be able to do the same.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Cadmoon, I know of 2 previous members in near stock 32 gtst's with suspension mods run around 63 to 65 seconds consistently. You should be able to do the same.

Now I have to do it or die trying.
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've never timed myself, though been out there mayb 20 times? Should be interesting. I'll be on pzeroes.

I think you should be mid to low 60's.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The two diagrams are equivalent. The R32 one is just one sheet out of about 3 showing everything in the whole car all at once. And without knowing the functionality that occurs in the modules, they are both equally opaque.
    • 8v - 2.48ms 9v - 2.15ms 10v - 1.74ms 11v - 1.41ms 12v - 1.15ms 13v - 0.99ms 14v - 0.89ms 15v - 0.82ms 16v - 0.81ms I'm running these values on my RB20 Neo with 570cc Denso R35 stock jets and it's great. Also bought a set for my Legnum VR4, love these injectors!
    • Thanks for your reply,  Those blue/green wires running to the actuator aren't attached to anything, so I'm not sure how the central locking is still working. I will have to take a good look tomorrow, I don't have the car with me. After googling it seems like a pretty common aftermarket actuator which even uses the same green/blue wires the immobiliser required. i'll test everything tomorrow and if it's working i'll melt the solder, strip it, resolder and neaten it all up with some heat shrink. I don't have to understand it if it works hahaha I just don't want a fire/ short circuit. That R32 diagram looks more like a continuity chart? Can you make sense of this form the R34 manual? 10V is probably due to very flat battery, i'll recheck as well tomorrow, I did have to jump start it haha. Thanks again!  
    • So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
×
×
  • Create New...