Atik's Stagea Rs Four Progress Thread

[Atik]

Hi guys,

Thought I would create a thread to detail the progression and work undertaken on the new car. Coming from a Legnum background where I have taken the car to maximum performance from standard internals, I'm not sure how I feel about doing the same to this car. It feels significantly different to the Legnum, but in a good way.

As it stands, the car is totally stock, with an unbranded blue pod filter.

Standard exhaust with a totally bodged up rear box which is probably causing a severe restriction in flow.

Front driver shock leaking.

Getting an intermittent stalling problem. Seems to be a common issue with these cars.

I am booked in at my local garage to carry out a service tomorrow, and have the following all ready to be fitted/changed:

BKR7EIX spark plugs

New fuel filter

New oil filter

Castrol Edge 5w/40 engine oil

Fuchs ATF4400 for auto and transfer box

Motul Gear 300 for the diff

I also have a set of R33 GTR stock front suspension on the way so I can change both fronts at the same time.

I have a 255lph fuel pump ready to fit which gives me long term scope for tuning.

I have a set of reverse parking sensors to fit, as the car is longer than the Legnum and the missus will definitely struggle with parking!

I have a PLX DM6 gauge with AFR and boost sensors to monitor them to ensure car is running right before any further mods take place.

I have a Greddy Profec B Spec 2 electronic boost controller, but this wont be fitted until I am happy with the car in stock form.

I have a 6 cyl LPG kit (currently on the Legnum), which will be moved over to the Stagea eventually - again only once the car is running well.

I plan on getting the AFM cleaned, AAC cleaned and the fuel pump fitted on the weekend, and hope this will cure my stalling problem.

Also need to move my stereo from the Legnum to the Stagea, change the light bulbs on the heater control unit as all the buttons are dark, remove the broken wind deflectors and the gunk they leave behind. Might go on the hunt for a new battery as the one currently fitted is TINY!

Long list of things but all in good time.

I'll keep this list updated with progress and pics.

[Atik]

Bit of an update:

Had to change the front diff prop-shaft as the one I had was about to snap. Also changed both track rod ends as the passenger side one was really badly gone!

Problem 1: Car has a stalling problem when running hot. Driving for about 20-25 minutes it’ll run totally fine, and then will lose power momentarily, sometimes coming back on, and other times will stall out. I can’t work out a particular sequence of events that causes it, and can happen when pulling off from a junction, slowing to a junction, accelerating or just on a steady drive on local roads or even motorway. Just totally random! It’ll then struggle to restart, like it’s not getting enough fuel to kick over.

Since I’ve had the car, I have had new BKR7EIX plugs fitted, new oil filter, new engine oil (Castrol Edge), new fuel filter, new fuel pump (generic 255lph), new pass side track rod end, replaced front diff prop-shaft, new front suspension, new ATF, new diff oils.

Initially, I suspected a faulty fuel pump as there was nothing coming through the fuel line, so it was replaced with the generic 255lph one. This was ‘bodged’ by the local garage and I had to call the AA out who found the fuel pump wasn’t fitted correctly. AA refit it, and seemed to sort the fuel delivery, until the next day when I got the stall issue back again. But since the AA callout, I’ve found that the fuel gauge now doesn’t read properly. The car has a full tank of fuel (Tesco 99) but the gauge is showing ‘E’. I suspect the garage or the AA dislodged the sensor?

As the car still persisted with the stalling issue, I measured the voltage at the pump at idle, showing around 10.5V, which was too low. I then fit a temporary hardwire (white domestic 3 core flexible cabling) to the fuel pump via a 20A fuse (in the engine bay) and a 30A relay (top of fuel tank) which improved the voltage to a steady 12-12.4V The stalling still persists. I’ll be replacing the temp wiring with some appropriate gauge wiring soon.

Problem 2: When engine is hot, there is a misfire coming from the engine, and I can feel it through the car, and pops through the exhaust. I have borrowed a set of 5 coils from a local garage to see if they made any difference, but it hasn’t. I’ve had the coil loom out and inspected for any damage, and it seems ok, with continuity through every wire. I can’t trace it back, but the problem is there.

Problem 3: One of the suggestions I had was to check that the TPS was ok. I have a spare and took the original off, but since then I have gained an additional issue, where the car will now only rev up to 3500rpm and then bounce back to idle. Another forum suggestion was to check that the TPS was set to 4.5V on closed loop mode. Haven't done this yet.

Things I have tried:

· Looked at the AAC valve/screw, and it looks ok. Can’t see any obvious blockages or anything inside it.

· AFM has been off and it looks very clean, but I haven’t checked voltage through it (suggestion through skylineowners forum)

· I’ve had the TPS off and tried swapping with another one. Causing a secondary issue as per problem 3. Again haven’t checked if voltage is correct.

The car is now at a trusted garage nearly 150 miles away from me. I paid almost £200 to get it transported there, so hoping to get the car back next week in working order.

[stock stagea]

By the sounds of it you have a c34 s2!?!?!? Change the coil packs, this is what it sounds like the primary issue is.

[Ben C34]

Sorry for dodgy quoting, phone sucks a bit...

"Another forum suggestion was to check that the TPS was set to 4.5V on closed loop mode"

That doesn't make sense.

"I have borrowed a set of 5 coils"

6?

"AFM has been off and it looks very clean, but I havent checked voltage through it (suggestion through skylineowners forum)"

What voltage do you expect to see and when? I don't believe a meter will tell you anything useful about your afm. Even if the afm looks "very clean" what's the harm in cleaning it to be sure?

[KiwiRS4T]

Also check the afm plug. Try to swap out a known good afm if you can get your hands on one.

I presume the fuel filter on the end of the pump was changed or at least cleaned. Did you change the fuel filter in the engine bay?

Do you have a S1 Stagea(series 2 R33 engine) or S2 (Neo engine)?

I have a set of coils for the R33 engine:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/441202-brand-new-oem-coils-set-of-6-mcp1330-2248-25u00-320/

[wolverine]

AFM is an easy DIY fix if you can wield a soldering iron a little bit. Check the DIY section here at SAU but simply digging out the sealant, opening the top and resoldering can help rule out issues. Even if it looks ok the solder dries up and can give intermittent contact.

[Atik]

Thanks for the replies guys. Sorry I'm a bit late to the party! Been busy with work the last few weeks.

Car is a S1 with the R33 engine.

Its currently with a trusted tuning garage (they did my old Legnum tuning and are well experienced with JDM performance vehicles) and they cant see whats causing the issue. The mechanic is suggesting it may be an ECU issue causing the stalling problem, and I've just sourced a replacement ECU so will try that this week.

In answer to some of the above, I got hold of 5 coils from a local garage. I know I need 6 but it was just to rule out that there was no direct issue with my own ones.

The TPS at 4.5v on closed loop, was a suggestion from another forum. As I understand it, the TPS when idle should be reading a voltage of 4.5v. Anything different to that will throw the reading out and cause the bouncing revs. Its an easy fix (apparently) as I just need to adjust the screws holding the TPS on.

AFM, again another forum suggestion, but the garage I'm using says its working fine so they have ruled out the AFM.

Fuel filter at the pump, yes that was changed with the pump. I also changed the one in the engine bay. The garage is also saying the fuel pump is working fine.

I'll see if the ECU fixes the stalling, and if it does, then I'm happy; otherwise, I'll be selling it back on as spares/repairs and getting a boring diesel estate!

[Ben C34]

It's the least likely scenario that the fault is with the ecu, I'm betting it won't fix it.

[wolverine]

0.45v at idle btw.

They concluded the afm is ok....so they tested it when the car was hot and not starting? It is an easy fix to resolder the contacts yourself OR pay someone (but obviously more expensive) OR try a known good one. This is common problem so why not make sure it is working correctly.

I doubt it is the ecu. Most issues with the ecu happen due to poor contacts with the loom but that usually causes issues from cold. Checking that the ecu is making good contact ie. there is no "banana-ing" with the contacts or there are no pins pushed in.

[Atik]

I stand corrected on the 0.45v.

Hoping the ECU fixes it, but I am not holding out on it to be honest.

And I will give the AFM re-solder a try.

[Atik]

I have an update, and a good one too!

The Stagea is now back and I'm loving driving it.

The problems were with the AFM. It wasn't easy to diagnose as the fault was so intermittent, so even taking my AFM onto another car was trial and error. Anyway, went and ordered a 2nd hand one off eBay and the car is now back and running nice and healthy. I still feel uneasy like I almost expect the car to cut-out when driving, but that's just in my head as I had problems from day one!

So as it stands, I've now got a pretty original unmolested auto RS4 which is driving well. Got an aftermarket filter, which is giving me unwanted induction noises, so I'll be on the lookout for a stock air box soon. I've had an electronic boost controller fitted and tuned, and showed an estimated 237bhp (estimated for auto) at the flywheel on the dyno. I'm pretty pleased with that result. Also had the AFR and boost gauge fitted.

To say I'm excited about being behind of the wheel of a turbo'd car again is an understatement. Since the beginning of April, I've been on public transport, shared the wife's MR2, bought a budget 1.2 Vauxhall Agila as a short term run-about (don't Google what that car is, it's embarrassing), and now back in a big powerful estate again

[KiwiRS4T]

I have an update, and a good one too!

The Stagea is now back and I'm loving driving it.

The problems were with the AFM. It wasn't easy to diagnose as the fault was so intermittent, so even taking my AFM onto another car was trial and error. Anyway, went and ordered a 2nd hand one off eBay and the car is now back and running nice and healthy. I still feel uneasy like I almost expect the car to cut-out when driving, but that's just in my head as I had problems from day one!

So as it stands, I've now got a pretty original unmolested auto RS4 which is driving well. Got an aftermarket filter, which is giving me unwanted induction noises, so I'll be on the lookout for a stock air box soon. I've had an electronic boost controller fitted and tuned, and showed an estimated 237bhp (estimated for auto) at the flywheel on the dyno. I'm pretty pleased with that result. Also had the AFR and boost gauge fitted.

To say I'm excited about being behind of the wheel of a turbo'd car again is an understatement. Since the beginning of April, I've been on public transport, shared the wife's MR2, bought a budget 1.2 Vauxhall Agila as a short term run-about (don't Google what that car is, it's embarrassing), and now back in a big powerful estate again

Good work. An R33 airbox will do as well .

[Atik]

Thought I'd show you some progress pics of the car.

Since getting the car on the road in July, I managed a whole 4 months of absolutely trouble free driving! Makes a huge change from the unreliable example of a Legnum I had prior to this.

Anyway, at the MOT, I discovered the front pads were almost metal to metal, one front caliper was seized, front camber arm bushes are worn (creaky suspension) and I had one FUBAR rear shock absorber.

Thought while I was taking the car off the road for repairs, I'd sort out the LPG install properly.

Plan therefore is:

Strip out original fuel tank, cut away the spare wheel well, weld and replace with a flat floor, mount up a replacement alloy fuel tank AND an LPG tank to the underside of the boot floor. While at it, replace the very worn centre silencer, change the backbox to something a little more suitable. Obviously get the front calipers refurbished, change the camber arm bushes (poly ones obviously), replace both rear shock absorbers. The boot floor will be reinforced to take the weight of the LPG tank and fuel tank. And finally underseal the car fully as it doesnt appear to have been touched since new! Also it means I can replace some of the corroded fuel lines at the rear of the car.

Some pics:

Underside with fuel tank removed. A fair bit of surface rust.

Centre silencer outer casing falling apart. No leaks though.

Rear box looks like it was changed at some point with a better quality metal.

Puny exhaust!

Underside again

You can just about see the corroded fuel lines

Fuel tank with added nuts! Forget horse-power, this car was running mouse-power at some point!

SHINY!!!

The top will be plumbed with flex hose to the original filling point. A replacement external fuel pump (rated at 300 lph) will be fitted to pull fuel from the line at the bottom. The two lines at the top will be for the return and the breather. I'll be drilling out a 40mm hole to mount a standalone fuel level sender. The issue I have there is, I understand the Stagea runs on 0-90 ohms resistance on the fuel level sender. I've not been able to locate a replacement which runs the same resistances so the one I have is now 3-150 ohms. Basically I think I will end up showing 'F' on the gauge until I am halfway through the fuel tank (32 litres capacity) and then drop to near enough empty when the fuel warning light comes on. I can live with that as I aim to be running LPG for 99% of the time. The petrol will only be for start-up and emergency use in case I cant fill up LPG in time.

Fuel tank in the box and LPG tank (85 litre capacity)

Replacement backbox for the Exhaust. Its a Legnum specific tip, but I'm sure can be persuaded to fit.

Shiny calipers. Will be replacing the brake fluids with some racing spec fluid (Super ATE blue) and eventually (hopefully) a set of Carbotech XP8 front pads. These pads are the best I've come across!

Spare wheel well

No spare wheel well

Just waiting for some AN8 fuel line fitting and pipes to arrive before the tanks are refitted. I have been without the car for a couple of weeks now and cant wait to get back in the driver seat! Going from nearly £90 to fill up to under £50 will be a massive help. More money to put on mods eh?