Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys. so just a quick rundown to whats been done to my 33 gtst:

Haltech platinum pro

850cc injectors

fmic

walbro in tank pump

haltech boost solenoid

intake

3" catback (turbo to cat is still stock)

on 12psi im making 233kw atw with full boost at 3500rpm (pretty sure turbo is stock, looks like it is, so wont go over 12psi)

at the end of the day, I want around 400kw atw, which is why im starting to search into building either a 30 block or 25 block (30 block seems more the better choice though). in the mean time I want to get a bit more oomph out of the car, so what I want to do is just some tomei poncams on, upgrade the turbo (either t04z or gt3076, but the 3076 wont get me to my final power goal down the track I dont think). at this stage, do you guys think putting in the haltech flex fuel and getting it tuned for full 85 tune and the 98 tune so I can then use 85 when I want? I was told by someone I need an 85 safe pump and injectors, but my tuner said I can do it with whats on it but didnt say if my injectors (power enterprise 850cc) and pump is 85 safe? cheers for any advice, just interested to see what people reckon, getting that extra power out of ya cars always exciting.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441836-rb25det-next-step/
Share on other sites

233 with stock turbo, ive never heard of this?

To4z and 3076 are very different output turbos.

400kw from std rb25 is def pushing it.

Have you ever driven 300kw on the street? Cause it is a pretty big figure really for street.

What makes you want 400kw?

What are you doing that makes you want that figure??

from driving mates cars is why i wanted that figure, but then the other night when i drove a 340kw 34 gtt and had no traction makes me think twice about building an engine and going high power, if I can get the std bottom end to 300kw safely (I know safely isnt a word used when talking bout stock bottom ends lol). which is why im wondering if it is safe to do 85 with my setup, and if its even worth it? and also, I know what you mean about my stock turbo, ive seen gt30's do less then that lol. I am not 100% its stock, think it MAY me highflowed (if so, then i can chuck more boost through it) what I am gonna do is pull the dump off when I get a chance and put a magnet to the exh turbine, hopefully it sticks ;)

I know this is all very exciting to make some more power but the best bet is to stop and do a lot of reading and researching. Everything you have ever thought of doing has been done more that once so take the time to narrow down what you really want before starting with a scatter gun approach.

ps. the magnet will tell you nothing but if the turbine housing is machined out then you will know more, if there is an ID tag (eg. GCG hiflow) then you can save your time with the dump.

Mate, highflows won't make that sort of power at that sort of boost level.

233rwkw at 12 psi is no where near a stock turbo. a GCG highflow will make around that power at 20psi. hypergear's will do it around 15psi.

So unless you have a massively inflated dyno figure I'd be willing to bet your turbo isn't stock! The guys on the forum are pretty damn good at identifying turbos if you want to throw up some pictures? I'm sure someone can figure it out,

its not stock turbo then!

I agree as above as it seems u dont really know what is needed or how to go about it...

Lots of reading will help you, others have done these things and their trial and error will help you understand what works and why it worked for their goal... Having a power level goal i dont believe is the best way to start if you havnt driven a car with power before, and i dont mean a half hour drive up the road in someone elses car.

Yep reading lots is your friend. Really sounds like you have no real set idea in your head of what you really want from the car. And research this forum is what you need to do to work out what you want out of it and how far you want to go. As not having a rough idea what you want out of it can end up very costly. For example you said your turbo choice is a 3076r or t04z, two completely different turbos which does not really make sense,lol. A 3076r will come close to 360rwkw on e85 setup correctly. So not far from your goal of 400kw. I wouldnt bother with a t04z as there a dated turbo now and will be rather laggy on a rb25. I strongly consider a gtx3071r, very good all-round turbo for a rb25 on e85. 340rwkw with awesome response. I could go on and on but I think you get the idea.

Cheers Josh

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can't agree. If we hadn't all been brought up with the noise caused by the inefficiency of an ICE, no-one would actually ask for all that. An EV is like any other car, it just goes better. 
    • 2 more things I have to work out Easy one first...can anyone describe how to pull the fuel pump and sender from a 33? I can feel there is some sort of mount and clips but don't have a manual and don't know the trick......if not I'll spend some quality time in the boot witha lighter tomorrow. Second question is harder.  He had changed the upper plenum to a plazmaman but clearly got to a point with the vacuum hoses where he said "f**k it, I'm going inside for a beer" and never came back to that job because it was a mess. Am I right to think that I need: 1. Pre throttle (16mm nipple on inlet) to AAC's main 20mm fitting as the main pre throttle feed 2. ACC has a second 13m outlet joined to that 20mm fitting which I think is the pre throttle air supply for the cold start valve? 3. Cold start valve's outlet fitting then goes to Plenum (to bypass throttle?) There is some adapter on the back of the ACC with 2 fittings (13mm and 10mm), do I run the 10mm through a 1 way valve to the Brake Booster (4) and the 13mm back to a 13mm nipple on the Plenum as the Idle control (5)? 6. Run a 6mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart BOV to the Plenum? 7. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Fuel Pressure Reg to the Plenum? 8. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart Boost controller to the Plenum? (Wastegate already has a pre turbo pressure source running to the solenoid then the wastegate on the other side of the bay)  Any help appreciated, the GTR is quite different setup and while the Stagea also has FFP it is different again. (And no Dose, I'm not pissing it all off and putting a ethrottle on it....)
    • OK, onto some questions to try and speed up the process a little. Does anyone know what core this Garret is? I know it is a high flowed standard turbo but nothing else about it. Tag says OK 0169J - 446179-5032 Same question for the injectors, I don't know what they flow and ideally can work it out before it hits the dyno, they are a mustard yellow side feed
    • Quick side trip into the engine externals, alternator and PS were in place including tensioned belts, but the PS was dry (my guess is he had the steering rack reco-ed). Filled it up with Transmax Z but it will need more bleeding once the engine is running no doubt. BTW I've said before, I don't know what kind of soft animals you have in the city, but out here they breed the rats tough. I bet they were disappointed when they tasted synthetic ATF.... Coilpacks are Splitfires with a factory loom in reasonable condition. I didn't pull one put I bet the spark plugs are new as its a new engine
    • Onto intake pressure test. I have a Raceworks (damn brand thieves!) pressure test adapter that lets you apply pressure through a standard tyre valve and comes with a pressure gauge.....I just blocked off the other end immediately before the throttle body. Applied 30psi....and the turbo intake immediately popped off with a bang. Sorted that but it was still leaking, turns out there is a pinhole leak at the BOV adapter that I'll have to find a local place to TIG up. I'm sure it makes SFA difference with such a small leak but I want it to be right. Everything else up to the throttle body was good. Also cleaned and oiled the KNX cone filter, and this is the AFM if anyone can identify it (car runs a PowerFC)
×
×
  • Create New...