Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26/30 Into A Gtr Query

fly510

By fly510,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

fly510 Community Regular

fly510

Posted
Posted

Hi All,

I hve a quick question regarding a possible 26/30 into an r34 GTR. Assuming I was going to try using a, unopened stocko rb30 bottom end is it possible to make all the necessary changes to the bottom end while its assembled?

I spoke to the guy Im getting the adapter bracket off and he reckons its do-able with the bits required for his kit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441871-rb2630-into-a-gtr-query/
Share on other sites
too_much_boost Mentor

too_much_boost

Posted
Posted

My understanding is Yes you can. I'm assuming you are getting the plate off the PF guy?

The issue you may have is the legality of such an old block in a new chassis

The RB26 head bolts wont fit apparently. You will either need to enlarge the rb30 block holes/thread, or run an rb25 head stud kit.

Do this so i can see if it works well so i'll know whether i should do it too :)

XKLABA Grand Master

XKLABA

Posted
Posted

depends on the adapter plate kit, the one I used there is no way in hell you can do it while the engine is assembled, if you have one of the ones that just bolts on then yeah should be possible

I have just done the 2630 into my R34 GTR and my advise is this DON'T DO IT, get the BC 2.9 kit and be done with it

since your not putting in the Whole engine and are going to use all the factory emission gear, engineering shouldn't be a problem, if you use the stroker kit no engineering required

RB25 head studs is what I used with the 26 washers under the ARP washers to take up the extra length, as the nuts on mine bottomed out, and spread the load as the ARP washers are smaller the the 26 ones OD so they dont sit very nice in the head, car has made 467awkw @ 28psi so far with out any problems

fly510 Community Regular

fly510

Posted
  • Author
Posted

My understanding is Yes you can. I'm assuming you are getting the plate off the PF guy?

The issue you may have is the legality of such an old block in a new chassis

The RB26 head bolts wont fit apparently. You will either need to enlarge the rb30 block holes/thread, or run an rb25 head stud kit.

Do this so i can see if it works well so i'll know whether i should do it too :)

Yep, I was looking at the PF one. Current status is mechanic is pulling the engine out this week (Im about to travel for 3 weeks and he already had the car) and will assess the bearing damage. He's built a few RB's in his time and will do bearings and crank grind if possible.

Otherwise I'll be looking more closely at this option :D.

depends on the adapter plate kit, the one I used there is no way in hell you can do it while the engine is assembled, if you have one of the ones that just bolts on then yeah should be possible

I have just done the 2630 into my R34 GTR and my advise is this DON'T DO IT, get the BC 2.9 kit and be done with it

since your not putting in the Whole engine and are going to use all the factory emission gear, engineering shouldn't be a problem, if you use the stroker kit no engineering required

RB25 head studs is what I used with the 26 washers under the ARP washers to take up the extra length, as the nuts on mine bottomed out, and spread the load as the ARP washers are smaller the the 26 ones OD so they dont sit very nice in the head, car has made 467awkw @ 28psi so far with out any problems

Thanks mate, thats exactly the info I was after. The BC kit sounds like a decent thing. Anyone on here done it?

XKLABA Grand Master

XKLABA

Posted
Posted

Anthony with the Powertune R34 GTR had one making over 800rwkw :D

Search for it, he has a build thread about it

Edit, here ya go

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/356324-project-gtrb28-powertune-australia-built/?hl=%20powertune%20%20r34

And sorry it was a 2.8

GTRPSI Mentor

GTRPSI

Posted
Posted

The adapter plates come with a stencil that outlines where you have to grind on the block, you could seal off the crankcase and do it, but not something id feel comfortable doing.

Dont forget to weld up the rear sump to tranny holes and redrill them as the sump will sit a cm lower and need those holes relocated a little.

As usual XKLABA is spot on, a stroker is so much simpler and can keep the car legal.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      Possible swap on R34 RB20DE NEO?

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • OakvilleGTR
      Turn signal wiring question

      By OakvilleGTR · Posted

      Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • sonicii
      Lower A arm Skyline v35

      By sonicii · Posted

      The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • The Bogan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
×
×
  • Create New...