Jump to content
SAU Community

Stagea Not Starting First Time

Atik

By Atik,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Atik Apprentice

Atik

Posted
Posted

Had the car serviced on the weekend which included changing over engine oil, filter, plugs, ATF, diff oil, transfer box oil, fuel filter, fuel pump and even the front suspension!

Since then, I took the car home, parked up and decided I'd take off the AAC to inspect the condition, as I'd previously had the infamous stalling problem! I found that the idle screw was FULLY screwed in, which didnt seem right to me, so i turned it back out. The valve itself looked reasonably clean and I simply undid the screw a little to around 50% open and refitted. The car is now off the the road while I wait for track rod ends and the front propshaft, but when I try to start the car now, it takes a lot of cranking for it to turn over.

When I had the initial stalling problem, it would take maybe two or three extra turns of the engine to actually fire up. Now its around 8-10 turns before it fires up. Could my messing with the idle screw have caused that? Once the car starts, it seems to idle ok, initially around 1200rpm and then settling to around 800rpm. Its just the starting issue thats got me worried. Making so many changes all at the same time, I'm not sure which of the changes caused this problem. Once its started, if I turn the engine off and restart, it fires up first time and settles to a steady idle. So I figure its got to be either the AAC or the fuel pump not priming properly?

Any suggestions?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441899-stagea-not-starting-first-time/
Share on other sites
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Did you replace the fuel filter in the engine bay? A fuel pressure test would indicate if your pump was at fault (on the way out).

Have you had a look at this thread?:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110431-diy-aac-valve-cleaning-idle-reset/

Atik Apprentice

Atik

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The fuel filter was changed and the mechanic commented when he took it off, there was a load of black sooty fuel that came out of it.

Back to the problem, and I think I have it worked out. I let the ignition sit at ACC for a couple of seconds last night which let the fuel pump prime up and then started the car which worked first time. There must have been no fuel in the lines to start up which is why I was initially getting startup issues when cold.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      R33 disk brake size

      By Duncan · Posted

      If you are keeping the current calipers you need to keep the current disc as the spacing of the caliper determines the disc diameter. Have you trial fitted the GTS brakes fit on a GTSt hub or is this forward planning? There could be differences in caliper mount spacing, backing plate and even hub shape that could cause an issue.
    • Godzillaskizza
      R33 disk brake size

      By Godzillaskizza · Posted

      Hi there I have a r33 gts with 4 stud small brakes, I'm going to convert to 5 stud but keep the small brakes, what size rotor would I need?
    • MBS206
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By MBS206 · Posted

      First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • joshuaho96
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • Ozdavroz
      My 1975 C110 Skyline Restoration

      By Ozdavroz · Posted

      That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
×
×
  • Create New...