Jump to content
SAU Community

$14,000 Mint Oem 1995 Skyline Gts-T Series 1.5


Recommended Posts

Vehicle

1995 Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-T

Price $14,000* Excluding on-road costs

Kilometres 91,000

Colour Silver

Interior Colour Grey

Transmission 5 speed Manual

Body 2 doors 4 seat Coupe

Drive Type Rear Wheel Drive

Engine 6 cylinder Petrol Turbo Intercooled 2.5 L (2498 cc)

Reg Plate 526HJQ

Reg Expiry 6 Months - October 2014

Roadworthy/Safety Certificate Yes

Comments
My one of a kind, show room condition 1995 Nissan Skyline GTS-T Series 1.5 is for sale. I am the cars second owner in Australia and have decided it is not the car for me. This is the best example of a immaculate, clean Skyline GTS-T you will ever see!
The car has a GENUINE 91,XXX kms on the chassis and engine! All paperwork to prove it including all full servicing log book, importing documentation and many receipts for work done!

The features:
Series 2 Engine
Driver Airbag
M spec factory front bumper
RARE Factory Nissan weather strips
Mongoose alarm professionally installed with immobilizer and keyless entry (Australian insurance safe)
K & N in panel filter
All windows tinted to legal specs
Blitz front mount intercooler (no holes cut, plumbs into factory piping)
3 inch Turbo back exhaust, CES dump pipe and Magnaflow muffler (receipt shows recorded 67db and legal!)
AM & FM converter for factory headunit
RARE optional CD stacker
RARE optional Prince floor mats
Boosted professionally to 9psi before 5krpm then 11psi onwards
Brand new FALKEN tyes 7mm of tread all round
Timing Belt Replaced at 80,000kms
Aftermarket Pioneer Speakers professionally installed (not ruining stock interior)
New KYB struts on all four corners!
16x8 Japanese 'Racing Hart' Rims
COLD Air-con!
Immaculate standard paint
Immaculate standard interior
Five Seats!

The car runs perfectly! Have receipts from previous owner of over $14k!

All servicing and small modifications preformed by Gavin Wood Autotech on the Gold Coast!

All photos are not edited, simply taken with a SLR camera, the car is just that nice!

Open to REASONABLE offers, not in rush to sell, STRICTLY no swaps...

Car can be sighted with plans in place on a hoist @ Gavin Wood Autotech... Have absolutely nothing to hide.

No test drives without deposit being laid.

Any questions feel free to text me between 8am-5pm

Seller Details

Contact Name Jesse

Suburb Pacific Pines

Location QLD

Postcode 4211

Mobile: 0413964428
Please contact via mobile, not a regular forum user.

post-134179-0-24480500-1397552417_thumb.jpg

post-134179-0-42731600-1397552424_thumb.jpg

post-134179-0-40129200-1397552429_thumb.jpg

post-134179-0-01026300-1397552436_thumb.jpg

post-134179-0-69581600-1397552442_thumb.jpg

post-134179-0-03463200-1397552450_thumb.jpg

post-134179-0-56361800-1397552460_thumb.jpg

post-134179-0-15514000-1397552473_thumb.jpg

post-134179-0-58647300-1397552484_thumb.jpg

post-134179-0-63735200-1397552494_thumb.jpg

post-134179-0-69326900-1397552511_thumb.jpg

post-134179-0-61679900-1397552522_thumb.jpg

post-134179-0-71132700-1397552534_thumb.jpg

post-134179-0-10718500-1397552546_thumb.jpg

post-134179-0-25689900-1397552558_thumb.jpg

Edited by Smidey666
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 8v - 2.48ms 9v - 2.15ms 10v - 1.74ms 11v - 1.41ms 12v - 1.15ms 13v - 0.99ms 14v - 0.89ms 15v - 0.82ms 16v - 0.81ms I'm running these values on my RB20 Neo with 570cc Denso R35 stock jets and it's great. Also bought a set for my Legnum VR4, love these injectors!
    • Thanks for your reply,  Those blue/green wires running to the actuator aren't attached to anything, so I'm not sure how the central locking is still working. I will have to take a good look tomorrow, I don't have the car with me. After googling it seems like a pretty common aftermarket actuator which even uses the same green/blue wires the immobiliser required. i'll test everything tomorrow and if it's working i'll melt the solder, strip it, resolder and neaten it all up with some heat shrink. I don't have to understand it if it works hahaha I just don't want a fire/ short circuit. That R32 diagram looks more like a continuity chart? Can you make sense of this form the R34 manual? 10V is probably due to very flat battery, i'll recheck as well tomorrow, I did have to jump start it haha. Thanks again!  
    • So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
    • Yeah, so try to post images with extensions that the internet can handle, not HEIC files which only arstyphones can handle.
×
×
  • Create New...