Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

and just to emphasis SKs mention of 1/4 mile times and not caring of HP, in its most highest form of drag racing, top fuellers in usa have only a rough guesstimate of the hp their engines put out. If they wer so conserned about finding out a number im sure they could, but they seem to be more interested in getting good times.

Hope that reflects some of this discussion.

  • Replies 76
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

So obviously a joke SK, nice one :)

take the bait WA! and keep up the good work, plenty of very nice perth cars getting around now. Must be some cash over that way...?

btw the r34 n1 turbos feature pretty high on Poenix Powers low mount turbo PS chart for obviously GTR RB26 or 2600cc or whatever class it was exactly, you know what i mean. it was in the hpi 5,6 or 7... i could check it out if anyone is really interested. they also had figures for other popular low mounts... and you could see what boost/rpm etc as well....

It might be interesting if someone knew what power the r34 n1 makes when tuned for group whatever(class) racing. i think it would be prettty certain they woundnt be allowed to change the turbos.

btw im a big fan of the 34 n1's go for it burto.

See ya's mic

I'll pipe up here and say my 32 GTR ran 11.13 @ 128mph on a 1.75 sec 60ft after registering 303 rear wheel KW's the day before on a Dyno Dynamics. Full weight car, street tyres, spare wheel, the lot. (Weigh bridge cert 1630kg)

:jk: I was only joking as well when asking if Qld KW's are bigger than Southern KW's, but I don't know of a similar car that's done that? Tell me if I'm wrong... I'm sure you will. :rofl:

I'll pipe up here and say my  32 GTR ran 11.13 @ 128mph on a 1.75 sec 60ft after registering 303 rear wheel KW's the day before on a Dyno Dynamics. Full weight car, street tyres, spare wheel, the lot. (Weigh bridge cert 1630kg)

:jk: I was only joking as well when asking if Qld KW's are bigger than Southern KW's, but I don't know of a similar car that's done that? Tell me if I'm wrong... I'm sure you will.  :rofl:

thats a farkin good time and big mph. What street tyres were you using? Also do you have a 2wd switch to warm the rears?

I'll pipe up here and say my  32 GTR ran 11.13 @ 128mph on a 1.75 sec 60ft after registering 303 rear wheel KW's the day before on a Dyno Dynamics. Full weight car, street tyres, spare wheel, the lot. (Weigh bridge cert 1630kg)

:jk: I was only joking as well when asking if Qld KW's are bigger than Southern KW's, but I don't know of a similar car that's done that? Tell me if I'm wrong... I'm sure you will.  :rofl:

very impressive, what tyres were you running

So 303rwkw... That would correllate quite well with jezzrrr's 285awkw... If anything, that would translate to LESS than 285awkw

Yet you run 128mph, and jezzrrr runs 118mph.

jezzrrr: Do you see now, why people think that your reading is a little optimistic? :rofl:

Couple that to the fact that peak power means nothing... I just heard about a certain race between FLYBYE (making in excess of 400awkw) and a 270awkw WRX in a 600m standing start race at Bathurst (can't remember the event, I'm sure others will), and the WRX beat FLYBYE, as well as another GTR of Domenic Russo (Autostyle) lighting up the dyno with more than 400awkw :Oops:

and that people is why dyno queens mean nothing to most of us :rofl: it aint nothing without that chunk of meat under the curve :rofl::P

is anyone here able to tell us how much traction both of these cars had??? could it be possible FLYBYE lost due to having none??

thats a farkin good time and big mph. What street tyres were you using? Also do you have a 2wd switch to warm the rears?

I don't want to be seen to be highjacking this thread, but here goes.

Tyres used were old Avon somethings, not a drag tyre.( I actually bought these on wheels from a friend, and they were hard as rocks) 255/40/17.

No tyre warming burnouts at all, I drove around the water. Car was pretty loose still in third - minimal grip. Camber etc all set for circuit, i.e lotsa camber etc... I don't doubt the car would have gone faster if set up for drags. This car was never tuned for outright power, just maximum "punch".

Ok, so as i thought the N1s are the weak link? I'm after good reliable power that i can use every day, this car is aimed to be street friendly and see the odd track day.

SK, i was thinking of going the high flow cat as i can get one in a deal when i get the front pipes...

How quick should this get me down the 1/4? Mid to high 11s or am i dreaming?

and that people is why dyno queens mean nothing to most of us :rofl: it aint nothing without that chunk of meat under the curve :rofl::P

is anyone here able to tell us how much traction both of these cars had??? could it be possible FLYBYE lost due to having none??

:werd:

Power under the curve >>>>>>>> Peak power dyno queens.

No, the reason FLYBYE lost wasn't due to no traction, it was due to a power curve that resembles* this:

flybye.jpg

* A tiny bit of artistic licence has been employed in the attached diagram :D

Ok, so as i thought the N1s are the weak link?  I'm after good reliable power that i can use every day,  this car is aimed to be street friendly and see the odd track day.  

SK, i was thinking of going the high flow cat as i can get one in a deal when i get the front pipes...  

How quick should this get me down the 1/4?  Mid to high 11s or am i dreaming?

If you want a nice street driven GTR, I would think the R34 N1s would be awesome!

Go bigger and chase mid 11s, and you'll get more lag... Personally I think stock GTRs are too laggy as they are standard... 4000rpm is WAY too late for boost to kick in for a street driven car IMHO. So going for 2540s (bad idea) would reduce boost threshold until about 5000rpm. Is that what you want???

The problem is that everyone has different definitions on what they think a "street car" is... Personally I want torque... LOTS AND LOTS of torque, and as early as possible. To be honest I couldn't give a sh1t what my peak power figure was. For a street car you should be aiming for a fat, plump, even OBESE area under your power curve, starting from as low down in the rev range as you can get it.

ND4SPD ran 140mph but shit street tyres held it back to 10.7.     504rwkw.

Does that that mean if it had less spent on the engine and some spend on decent tyres and suspension then it would have done a 9? :confused:

If you want a nice street driven GTR, I would think the R34 N1s would be awesome!

Go bigger and chase mid 11s, and you'll get more lag... Personally I think stock GTRs are too laggy as they are standard... 4000rpm is WAY too late for boost to kick in for a street driven car IMHO. So going for 2540s (bad idea) would reduce  boost threshold until about 5000rpm. Is that what you want???

The problem is that everyone has different definitions on what they think a "street car" is... Personally I want torque... LOTS AND LOTS of torque, and as early as possible. To be honest I couldn't give a sh1t what my peak power figure was. For a street car you should be aiming for a fat, plump, even OBESE area under your power curve, starting from as low down in the rev range as you can get it.

I gotta agree Merli. Midrange is king! 2540 is too laggy for my tatses in a streeter, and N1's drive nice. As I mentioned before, they'll do mid 11's anyway if tuned right and driven well enough. Also compare the value of the N1's, I heard a guy in Brissy scored a near new set from the UK last week for $1200.....that's a cheap upgrade!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I chose a bad time to buy, at the time there was no gtst's for sale in NSW and my options were qld, vic, or sa and not the greatest examples or too far out of my budget. Ended up picking this one from adelaide sight unseen and got a bit stitched up as you could expect but i dont fully regret it, its just a shame people cant be more transparent in this day and age.
    • IMO just buy a whole R33 transmission and swap the whole thing. Use a palm nailer/air hammer with a roll pin punch to drive the shifter rod end roll pins out. The rod end is discontinued so don't break it. Use gasket dressing on the OEM paper gasket instead of RTV. I personally would not pry on the shifter cover tabs, I broke one trying that instead of just smacking the side with a dead blow rubber mallet to shock it loose from the RTV the last mechanic applied. If you can't get the flanges totally clean and free of any residual RTV and/or you might have a gap that is bigger than it should due to flange damage use RTV on that surface instead of the OEM specced anaerobic sealer. Anaerobic sealer is most likely the right sealant for the job, it's just too easy to mess it up with too large a gap or bad surface prep/roughness seemingly. If you do rebuild what you have it's for a whole gearset that can take high torque. Don't bother with OEM at that point.
    • Little hose. Big hose. They're all waiting to kill the engine.
    • Nice ride, hard to find these days!
    • Full e85 barrell stuff real world for reference if it helps as Ive pushed 2 x sets injectors to limit Above mentioned Bosch 1480cc run on 4 bar base to the apparent 1650cc on rb2.7 yielded 912hp / 684  kw  at 92% duty on hub dyno ID1700's - RB 2.8 ...1015hp / 760 kw at 87% duty - hubber dyno + shown off data on track my opinion IF you change injectors just go bigger than you think you need the modern/ good larger ones run just fine if tuned properly even if way bigger than required even on streeters  
×
×
  • Create New...