Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25De Engine Bay

R33-GTS

By R33-GTS,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Deza3000 Proficient

Deza3000

Posted
Posted

Turbos, turbos make things interesting.

But seriously, engine dress up on a N/A car is pretty much rice, no point. Just clean it up, make them rockers nice and shiny to increase resale value, resulting in more cash for when you do get to choo choo :)

dyl33 Mentor

dyl33

Posted
Posted

....keep the bonnet shut. Done!

But seriously maybe clean your engine bay, maybe some new black hoses make it look as new as possible.

I'd rather see a nice clean engine bay then some riced up colourful, bling-bling engine bay.

Other then that go with post #2 bitches love jigsaw puzzles

  • Like 1
central coast person Proficient

central coast person

Posted
Posted

haha brilliant ideas :P

yeah i've been looking into some new hoses and maybe an alloy intake pipe.

think painting the rocker covers is a waste?

thanks dudes

Use genuine rubber hoses, the silicone ones are very cheap and are fine for intercooler and intake piping but often get pin hole leaks when you use them for coolant.

When I had my engine out the block was acid dipped then bored 40thou, honed and decked then sprayed black. All new welsh plugs and every hose in the engine bay with a new genuine part (coolant, fuel, vac and blow by), had the sump (acid dipped), head rebuilt and cleaned and the intake manifold.
Then replaced all the bolts and studs on the engine with new genuine ones, new coil pack cover, polished the rocker covers like a mirror (paint flakes or chips of easy) and added an alloy radiator and extractors heat wrapped. I made it look good as new with the exception of the alloy parts, a pod filter and extractors.

That's as good as its going to get with a N/A

R33-GTS Collaborator

R33-GTS

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Use genuine rubber hoses, the silicone ones are very cheap and are fine for intercooler and intake piping but often get pin hole leaks when you use them for coolant.

When I had my engine out the block was acid dipped then bored 40thou, honed and decked then sprayed black. All new welsh plugs and every hose in the engine bay with a new genuine part (coolant, fuel, vac and blow by), had the sump (acid dipped), head rebuilt and cleaned and the intake manifold.

Then replaced all the bolts and studs on the engine with new genuine ones, new coil pack cover, polished the rocker covers like a mirror (paint flakes or chips of easy) and added an alloy radiator and extractors heat wrapped. I made it look good as new with the exception of the alloy parts, a pod filter and extractors.

That's as good as its going to get with a N/A

whoa that's awesome, please tell me you have pictures haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Trilbyte
      RB25 S2 Idles but doesn't want to rev

      By Trilbyte · Posted

      The 1000ccs are side feeds but they're not currently installed, had my old factory ones in for leak testing purposes, only decided on them because front facing plenums and good top feed rail kits are out of my budget at the moment, are they really that problematic? Had a set of yellow jackets that lasted me 5 years, no real issues, only replaced them chasing this misfire issue that ended up not being ignition related 😄  
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB25 S2 Idles but doesn't want to rev

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Are those 1000cc side feeds? If so, that's part of your problem. I have 1480cc and they idle at stoich on 98RON, and all the way to E85. Also your coil packs.....
    • Trilbyte
      RB25 S2 Idles but doesn't want to rev

      By Trilbyte · Posted

      Update for the sake of closure   Ended up getting the intercooler piping all sorted, new plugs and yellow jacket coils, and she was idling mint until it warmed up while I was bleeding the cooling system. Found the misfire to be localised to cyl 3 by unplugging coilpacks, ran a compression test, that checked out, then decided to get a mate to check if that spark plug was firing out of the motor. Upon cranking it over, with the injectors disconnected, the car actually fired and ran on a couple cylinders and heaps of fuel came out the top of cyl 3 I'd say that injector's either spraying incorrectly or spraying far too much, which is fine as I'm planning on replacing them anyway I'm planning on making about 250kW on flex fuel, and have a set of 1000cc injectors from ozautosport, obviously overkill but I'm planning on building the motor and running more boost further down the line, do you reckon they'd be too big for a smooth idle on 98? Thanks for the replies gents, much appreciated
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Any feedback on GReddy Turbine Kit T620Z in r33 GTST/RB25DET?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Nice modern Hypergear high flow would be perfect.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I'm confused. You said you want to "remove the clear coat from most panels" but it sounds like you are actually doing a full respray? Few random things to add -  If you chase the blistered paint with 120 grit, I can almost guarantee you'll chase it down to bare metal (that's fine). But if you paint the car from here, you'll have nice little indents where ever the blistered paint was. The new paint won't magically level out the low areas, you need to fill them. Which leads me to the main point I wanted to add, make sure the whole car is flat before you paint it. All those areas with blistered paint you sanded out, make sure to fill them and triple check they are flat with a block guide coat. I'd also check the whole car is flat with a large block and guide coat but yeah up to you if you want to go that far.   
×
×
  • Create New...