Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the science I guess is to remove the turbulence caused by the flap opening.

whereas a bell mouth would give greater gas expansion earlier.

would be cool to see a dyno'd difference.

yeah but its only like 2 inches earlier...and the way the bellmouth is just a squashed bit of 3inch pipe its hardly going to be a noticeable difference on a dyno

I ran a bellmouth for a bit and it is a vast improvement over the stock pipe....

I later ran a stock dump into hks twin front pipe and it was easily just as good as the bellmouth pipe....

this is based on stock turbos with higher boost though, maybe with hiflows there is a more noticeable difference

Got to be careful with split dumps. Cheap ones may not match the rear housing and wastegate port causing boost spike. Had this problem with a JJR split dump on standard RB25 turbo, not worth the hassle, just get a bellmouth dump.

http://justjap.com/index.php/hpi-turbine-outlet-pipe-nissan-rb20det-rb25det.html

Or you could just buy mine, sitting on my desk now for considerable discount! ;)

(this is the one scotty mentioned was quite decent)

lol....5monkeys for two flanges a bung and some pipe.

I bought my entire exhaust second hand for less... $60 for mild steel 3" bell-mouth/ front pipe, $175 for new hi-flow cat, and $200 for 3/ 3-1/2" stainless catback with large mid and and big canon.

gallery_89296_5394_10745.jpg

gallery_89296_5394_88522.jpg

http://justjap.com/index.php/hpi-turbine-outlet-pipe-nissan-rb20det-rb25det.html

Or you could just buy mine, sitting on my desk now for considerable discount! ;)

(this is the one scotty mentioned was quite decent)

What is your one ? And how much you asking ? Any pics?

hpi one seems a bit pricey, you could get a tomei one for cheaper!!

Mike, you got ripped. Who would pay $175 for a new highflow stainless cat, then shove it into an old rusty stainless Zorst?

You can't compare someone elses old S/H rusty sh1t to a new Stainless dump, no matter what you were able to get it for. Tight arses like you are why I can't be stuffed dealing with mild steel at all, you would expect people to work at Chinese sweatshop prices, no wonder Australian manufacturing has gone bust.

Why don't you show me your product you made, to sell for less than that price retail...

What is your one ? And how much you asking ? Any pics?

hpi one seems a bit pricey, you could get a tomei one for cheaper!!

His is the HPI, it is quite the work of art. If I was to custom make one it would be around $400-$450 at a guess, so the new price is about right. I am sure Kinkstaah would sell it at a reasonable price S/H. ;)

Is the Tomei 3 inch into the stock 3 bolt flange though? Considering the Japanese use metric tube, I doubt it very much.

Would love to be wealthy enough to go a full custom stainless system :) but spending that on a relatively stock 32gtst makes no sense at all.

Tight arse, and not supporting Aussie manufacturing?

Oh that's why I bought Nistune, TechEdge and Hypergear. :action-smiley-069:

Also what's your opinion on the HP that the HPI dump would flow? it looks like it bolts up to the stock front pipe?

Edited by Missileman

All those products use parts made in China, just assembled here, probably not a good example.

The front pipe can be changed obviously, which is why some guys want the (stock location flange) dump only. I would say it could flow 350kw or more at a guess, if the front pipe and cat back are straight through 3 inch.

I would have thought the stock front pipe flange would have caused more restriction than that.

Would also be nice to afford a custom Titanium dump/ front pipe, have you worked with titanium before? Obviously it would be difficult to shape, but how easy is it to weld?

Edited by Missileman

I would have thought the stock front pipe flange would have caused more restriction than that.

Would also be nice to afford a custom Titanium dump/ front pipe, have you worked with titanium before? Obviously it would be difficult to shape, but how easy is it to weld?

It's been opened up to 3 inch, what would be the restriction? If it was still 60mm it would be obviously.

Ti welds fine in an inert environment. Materials are overly expensive for the little weight saving you achieve, and I doubt you would be seriously interested in a $1k dump pipe.

Thin walled stainless wouldn't be much heavier if you designed the flanges differently, but I realised years ago, being a weight weenie is a waste of time when you can just take a shit and shave off a kg.

It's been opened up to 3 inch, what would be the restriction? If it was still 60mm it would be obviously.

That's what I didn't know, thought it was stock size because it bolted to the stock front pipe.

I doubt you would be seriously interested in a $1k dump pipe.

Absolutely correct, my next 1K spend is on new Bilsteins.

Cheers Mike.

Edited by Missileman
  • 1 month later...

yeah i was referring more to this kind of thing

dupmp_zps77e5ff66.png

This is pretty much the one i bought...i fitted this over the weekend and i can say its made a proven difference. prior to this i was only ever hitting load row 15 on WOT and now i'm constantly on row 16. we adjusted the tune slightly.... so now i'm hoping to crack 230rwkw lol i'll report back when i have a dyno power figure and graph.

Goes to confirm the long standing truth that a decent turbo back exhaust system should be the first step.

it was the first thing i did...exept the dump...which i didn't want to cut up my exhaust to fish out my ceramic wheel off my original turbo from.

  • 5 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like the solenoid might be cactus, if the solenoid trigger wire was still attached (and it was just the main power to the starter itself remove). Just to provoke Neil haunting me for the rest of my life... Have you tried tapping it with a hammer while someone switches the key to start? This might work for the fuel pump too... šŸ˜›
    • I need help dealing with an engineer who is massively overcharging me for an engineering report on my modified, written-off Jeep to get it roadworthy. šŸ”¹ Initially, he quoted me $3,500 - $4,500. šŸ”¹ First invoice: $5,315 (already above the quote). šŸ”¹ Second invoice: $1,375. šŸ”¹ Now, he has sent another invoice for $3,100! This is way more than double what I was originally quoted. I feel like Iā€™m being ripped off. Has anyone dealt with something like this before? What can I do? Any advice on how to report him or fight these unfair charges? Would really appreciate any guidance! šŸ™ Am in Adelaide.
    • I dunno man, that VX S with 200,000 k's is still hanging out for 1.5 I reckon the R34 is the better buy, personally.
    • Dang, doesn't even include on roads.
    • Only in a market where OBD was a thing. The rest of the world was quite happy to let the US EPA only affect US cars for quite a while. The* problem with datalogs is that unless you are very familiar with what every trace should look like, on their own and as an ensemble, you can and will see weird shit that can and will lead you astray, not realising that what you are seeing is the normal consequence of various transient inputs. *Really, "a" problem, as there are of course many other problems too. Look, these cars are so bloody simple that if it is missing or stumbling, the obvious thing is to break out the old mental diagnostic list and just go do all the things that you know you should. After proving that the plugs are clean and sound, ditto the coil stalks, coils, loom connectors, etc, and then making sure that there is fuel pressure at about the right numbers (while driving!, not while sitting in the garage free blipping it), then maybe you go looking at AFM voltages, manually testing the igniter, putting a scope on the CAS, etc. Then you're into pulling the injectors for a spray pattern look-see and perhaps a clean, squirting carby cleaner around the inlet manifold looking for leaks, and all the more annoying and esoteric, but still common as muck faults that these things have. I wouldn't ever bother looking at the trims, as they are usually bullshit on these old clunkers anyway.
Ɨ
Ɨ
  • Create New...