Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was driving my track car last Friday and my engine all of sudden sounded like a wrx. I took all the spark plugs out to find one had cracked severely. I went down to supercheap and bought 6 new copper plugs (bcfr6es-11) and installed them.

It was hard to start and then once started a loud knocking noise was coming from the engine. So I turned the car off, checked fault codes for engine knock but none came up (5,5 on the ecu light).

I restarted the car and then unplugged each coilpack one at a time to see if the knocking stopped but the revs only decreased and so did the knock. I revved it up to 1500rpm and the knock got faster. Then after about 10 more seconds of idling the knocking stopped and the car stalled.

I then restarted the car again and it was struggling to stay on idle and sounded like it wanted to stall, and eventually it did.

I can post videos of the knock stopping and a video of after I restarted the car.

Please help. I have no idea where to start.

Spark plugs dont crack for no reason.

What is your tune like? I will guess and say something has gone wrong and engine has died.

The plugs cracking is an indication of Way too much heat (lean) so engine has pinged to death.

Do a comp test if you like. But the knock means it's dead anyway.

Mods are:

FMIC

Rb25 turbo

3 inch dump pump

Standard ECU

Compression test is:

Cylinder 1: 125psi

Cylinder 2: 121psi

Cylinder 3: 120psi

Cylinder 4: 125psi

Cylinder 5: 120psi

Cylinder 6: 126psi

Yeah but the car restarted after the knocking stopped. Also the car was running on 5 cylinders when putting it onto the trailer, and then immediately after the spark plug change there's a loud knock out of no where? I'm quite confused.

I just did another compression test. Cylinder 3 is giving different results.

Test 1 cylinder 3: 120psi

Test 2 cylinder 3: 80psi

Test 3 cylinder 3: 95psi

I'm assuming either what badgaz said, a stuck lifter or, a broken valve spring.

Valve spring would explain the knocking, missing and broad variance in compression results.

i'm pretty sure thats one of your lifters making a racket.... i fixed mine with pro-ma mbl8. i would try a good engine oil flush first, fill with some cheap thin oil...then run another flush...then fill with good oil mixing the l mbl8 with the last litre of oil.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But, do I have to? 😬
    • While doing my tailgate struts I found some rust. Also replaced my bonnet struts. Such a cool satisfaction with that job.
    • So I removed as much as I could from both sides. The shop vac did a great job of clearing 99% of it. I got it all as clean as I could and then absolutely drenched the whole lot in the rust converter. Tonight or tomorrow I'll hammer it again. The cavity must be close to 400mm in length and surprisingly I was able to get it right to the back.  I'll quickly reassemble and then pretend I never saw it. I'll post pics (for me to ignore later) soon.
    • Yea she is a hoot to drive 
    • I have always resisted the urge to go silly. 8" wide wheels and street friendly spring rates? Check. (Let's not talk about the steadily increasing spread of spherical joints across my suspension!!) Stock turbo, run at 12 psi? Check. Lasted for~?10 years before it died. Highflow put on rather than seizing the opportunity to go G45. You don't need 300 rwkW, let alone the more massive numbers that seem to be essential these days, to have a car that is already way too powerful and fast for a streeter. ~250rwkW is fine. I've never exceeded 200, although I will sneak up above it if and when I manage to get my finger out and do what needs to be done to use the highflow's capacity. You don't need $10k worth of CF bits glued onto the outside. You don't need razor sharp ankle cutting front splitters. You don't need the car to be 2" off the ground. You don't need flawless paint, mirror finished wheels, brand new indicator lenses, etc etc. All these things just make the car impractical and will cause you pain when they get damaged, which is inevitable for a street car. A few nice additions are good. Good seats are good. A nice stereo is good. A/C is good! (46° on the road yesterday and my A/C is degassed again. Was moderately traumatic driving home!) The main reason I stick with a mildly modified old Skyline is that I have had it for >25 years, the mods are the rolling result of 25 years of things dying and being upgraded opportunistically, coupled with a few "just 'coz" ones. And I hate almost all modern cars. If I was a young buck starting out now.... I wouldn't bother. Cars have a few years left where there is any possibility of interest or fun. Thereafter there will be no such thing allowed or possible. Any time, money and effort spent now on a project would just be a waste.
×
×
  • Create New...