Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi fellas,

I started this topic to see what kind of results some guys are getting on an engine dyno around the 600hp+ mark. In particular, actual engine torque values and rpm it is achieved (instead of measured by rolling road dyno).

So, anyone tuning on an engine dyno and have some torque figures to share; nothing specific, RB26, RB26, RB30... sorry if this topic is conflicting with the dyno result thread but it it more specific to engine dyno.

Thanks,

Mike

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/442160-rb26rb30-engine-dyno-results-600hp/
Share on other sites

I have only ever heard of maybe two RBs being tuned on engine dynos, one RB25 making ~1400hp and one RB26 making ~1700hp - probably not too helpful for this topic, most people aiming for "only" 600ish are content with a rolling road or hub dyno :)

I have only ever heard of maybe two RBs being tuned on engine dynos, one RB25 making ~1400hp and one RB26 making ~1700hp - probably not too helpful for this topic, most people aiming for "only" 600ish are content with a rolling road or hub dyno :)

600hp+.... they can post it in here!

I know BoostdR had some results, I can't find it however. It was an RB30 with twin -10s that made good strong power.

I don't know of any tuners or engine builders here who have an engine dyno - the only ones I have seen are in a Polytech and one in a place doing research on fuels - which is not to say that there aren't some somewhere. I have seen a video of an Aussie speed shop somewhere that has one.

There are a few in Adelaide; most would not go to the trouble of an engine dyno but IMO it is the best way to tune and run in an engine prior to fitting it to the car. Also the only way to get a true reading of torque (and engine power).

There is one up our way, costs by the time you wire it all up etc are a bit steep, we were thinking to do the run in and basic tune on it and makes life simpler if you want to inspect the engine internally or work on it, in our case we are still unsure if its the right thing for us.

Maybe. maybe not.....

Yeah mine was done in Adelaide prior to me buying it.

2.8l with turbonetics GTK850 25psi on 98 with 10% meth-- 760hp & 780nm @ 5500rpm from memory.

Will try and find the sheet.

Thanks Richard, I will have a look for BoostdR's result somewhere on the forum today too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What can't be done with a little bit of decking board or similar timber bolted to a hub flange via 2 wheel nuts is not worth talking about.
    • I noticed something. On the tps sensor and the sensor behind the adjustment screw is adjusted towards the far left. Are these screws supposed to be centered? (this sensor was in the same position before the tune as well)  Also attached a photo of where my car usually idles at when warm (sometimes a tiny bit above that). I think I might have screwed up the calculation and it might have better than I thought lol at 750rpm still not 650rpm though.      
    • So for both general interest of engine health, and to rule out any coolant/oil issues, I organised an oil analysis done on the 125,000klm oil Results below, all good, just a bit of fuel dilution which I'm not too worried about
    • This is actually a really good way of measuring what wheels fit. If only there was a similar measurement between hub face and suspension :p That said, it's probably pretty simple to actually measure it all with the wheel off the car for the rear. The front is a bit more complex but.. 
    • Being the top Google search result for R34 wheel-related inquiries, lemme throw down my experience. I calculated that 100mm from hub face to wheel face is about the perfect fitment for my ENR34 sedan.  I've been running 18x8.5s, ET35, with a 1" spacer. So, 8.5in to mm = 216mm. 216/2 = 108mm. 108-35 = 73mm. 73+ 25 (1" to mm) = 98mm.  If you wanna get close to this on dif widths, here are the offsets you'll want: 9" - ET around 15mm 9.5" - ET around 20mm 10" - you're crazy, but ET around 30mm All these should fit perfectly on a non-widebody, non-GTR Skyline. Note that it's probably the absolute max, and you're probably better off running a couple degrees of camber in this config, but it looks great, super flush.
×
×
  • Create New...