Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey mate do u have a pair of headlight plug that sits behind headlight bnr32 h7 plug i think

Edited by gtr0321994

Steering shaft cover - between steering wheel and cluster where the blinker stalk and wiper stalk is in

Please

For some reason I can't pm from my phone but I need.

Front passenger drive shaft.

Steering colum plastic. The bit closest to the steering wheel. And the plastic that goes around the key.

Also one green engine bay fuse.

Posted to melb.

Call me if you need to discuss. 0438416584 Mark

Shaft cover is ruined

I have PM you mook

Will also have all glass (rear is demister)

Also available is front drive shaft components

A thread from SAU said that on a pallet is around $350 mark via Northline Freight

Pallet dimensions 1200x1200x1000 (h for engine)

Weight is around 275kg with all manifolds and turbos

Another company is mainfreight

Edited by Jezzza

RB26 should be getting a leak down test Wednesday, will keep this thread updated!

Price reduction on remainder of parts, I only have available what is listed below

The shell is gone now

- Velo seat $350

- Tomei Cluster $300

- Catback exhaust $80

- RSR front pipes $250

Need driver's side headlight (indicator is fine) asap.

Please txt 0423837270 with location and price.

As close to 3174 VIC as possible would be amazing.

Any image on the ORC if it is still available? And what is your best price shipped to 2077 NSW? Please PM me thanks! and condition as well..

Need driver's side headlight (indicator is fine) asap.

Please txt 0423837270 with location and price.

As close to 3174 VIC as possible would be amazing.

Need R32 driver's side headlight/indicator cluster asap.**************
1993 GTS-4 sedan (stating this due to the different headlight fitting, I think??)*****************
Please txt 0423837270 with location and price.
As close to 3174 VIC as possible would be amazing.

Complete list of what is remaining, car is gone now (03-06-14)

- BBS wheels, 18x9.2 (weird size, but thats stamped on the wheels) +20, one damaged but will be repaired prior to sale - $1300

- Genuine N1 side pods, one slightly damaged,easy to fix - $300

- Drivers tail light - $40

- Silver inner window lining with rubber that goes around window - $30a

- Cowel panel infront of windshield, with rubber seal - $40

- Drivers door trim, good condition - $50

- Passenger door trim, average condition - $30

- Drivers rear upper trim, ripped - $free

- Passenger rear upper trim, ripped - $free

- Passenger door sill - $20

- Passenger rubber door sill - $free

- Velo GP90 seat with rail (suit s13) - $350

- Carpet in good condition, bit of wear drivers side - $100

- Dash with glove box and some extra plastics - $50

- Tomei 310KPH speedo cluster - $300

- 3 gauge cluster - volt - oil - boost - $70

- Passenger power window switch - $30

- Drivers power window switch - $50

- Genuine Nissan AFM x2 (one good, one broken tab) - $100 for both

- RSR front pipes, stainless steel - $250

- 3" Japanese exhaust - $80

- ORC 559 twin plate clutch and flywheel, 90-95% new - $1,400

- R32 GTR gearbox - $1000

- Rear tailshaft - $250

- Bilstein suspension (not coilovers), one damaged - $100

- Front OEM swaybar - $100

- Rear OEM swaybar - $100

- OEM front strut brace - $50

- OEM radiator, cap - $100

- Radiator silicone hose - $20

No more parts guys! Feel free to offer me

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My hold point for future mods is that I want a OEM detachable hard top first, but, finding one is a pain, MX5 Mania are looking for one for me, but, as hens teeth are more common, finding one in Australia is proving problematic  I can get a OEM one from overseas, hell, you can still get new ones in 'Merica, but, shipping is a absolute killer and I cannot justify the cost, or the risk of it being damaged during transport As for the aftermarket hardtops, whilst they do the job of being a hard top, and are fine for a track car, they don't seal well (read: leak like a sieve in the rain), and you need a plastic/poly rear window, plus they are a bolt in option only and not made to be easily removed I liked how the hard top on my NB could be fitted, and removed, by myself, in less than 5 minutes I know it sounds bad, but I'm waiting for someone to write off a car with one so I can swoop in on their pain, it will go to a good home though, so my guilt of this is tempered
    • I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
    • Ye, in terms of bolting up the "Conversion" from a GT to a GTT is effectively "Use GTT parts for everything" Except the subframe itself, because you won't want a HICAS/4WS subframe. Remember your ABS system will be different too, thanks to GT being the S15 3 sensor system, instead of the R34 4 sensor system for wheel speed. I do not know how people get this to work given R34 diffs do not have a provision for an ABS sensor (they are on the tone wheels of the axles). I assume***** people use S15 gear/R34NA forever when they realize this - Or they convert it to a rear diff/axles that are R33 style which I presume has the singular speed sensor on the diff itself, but then you have to wire it all in and...and... and...
    • Foreshadowing was never so easy.
×
×
  • Create New...