Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Sorry if this has already been answered, I have had a look around but couldn't see a definite.

Will this style of intercooler fit a S1 Stagea ?

Listing:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/KLS-INTERCOOLER-PIPING-FULL-KIT-NISSAN-SKYLINE-R32-R33-r34-RB25-RB20-turbo/191139298348?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222003%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140106155344%26meid%3D6396917397384694418%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D20140106155344%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D230869357899&rt=nc

Direct link to image:
http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MzYwWDM2MA==/z/eEAAAOxy0x1TT2D6/$_12.JPG

Looking in the engine bay it looks like drivers side would be a tough fit.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/442213-intercooler/
Share on other sites

^^this.. also, this is next on my shopping list: http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/371047755695?nav=SEARCH

A quick search around will reveal all. People have also used xr6 turbo intercoolers with success. The one you have listed probably will fit with a hole under the battery tray and a small bit of massaging. Alternatively, an r34 smic is a nice stealthy upgrade.

Edited by c34Florry
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/442213-intercooler/#findComment-7264609
Share on other sites

I used one of these in my wagon:

http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=207&products_id=208&osCsid=eeaa0b07c62725c35347ccedff7d7964

I was looking for a vertical flow unit for ages. I knew what I wanted & found it here, a complete guide:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/424157-r34-gtt-fmic-with-no-bodywork-cutting/

This is a much better option. Lag is an important consideration before buying. The one I picked is just under twice as big in capacity as the stock one with 2.5'' piping, & I gained 400rpm lag (2,200 rpm - 2,600rpm). Like the cooling pro unit it has 2.5'' inlet/outlet. Understanding why a vertical flow intercooler is better than a horizontal flow requires research, as this would be a very long post to explain! It might have a smaller surface area, BUT, it is 3.5'' thick. It was a no hassle install with NO cutting of the front reinforcement bar or bumper. Very neat & tidy, & even with slimline number plates & black colour, nobody even knows it there :ph34r:!!

My next intercooler will be even better, air to water!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/442213-intercooler/#findComment-7267655
Share on other sites

I used a JustJap 'Cooling Pro' return flow unit. Contrary to what most people say about non-Japanese stuff, this kit is well made and includes the correct length hot and cold side piping. The only issue I had with mine was fabricating some nicer alloy brackets, as the steel ones supplied were pretty average looking.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/442213-intercooler/#findComment-7268360
Share on other sites

^^^interesting. I never knew these existed until now.. doing some reading and they sound awesome! Do you need to buy a specific piping kit for these or did you make one up yourself?

Nope, just bought a piping kit from ebay out of china. Like this:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-5-INCH-ALUMINUM-TURBO-INTERCOOLER-PIPING-KIT-PIPES-CLAMP-COUPLER-UNIVERSAL-/260882361775?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cbdccedaf

I specified black hoses when I ordered it.

When I ordered the intercooler, I ordered the 60 degree (#1), the 90 degree (#3) & the 45 degree (#7 in the pics of the guide). As it turns out, the the ones I ordered with the intercooler were 5 layered hose & the china kitted hose was only 3. If I did it again, I'd get all the hoses from the U.S. with the intercooler.

The piping kit wasn't barbed on the ends of the pipes, but I didn't see an issue with this as scotchbriting the pipe & painting it black gave it plenty of grip, PLUS I cut my pipe so there was PLENTY inside the hose when fully assembled. Once it was all finished, the piping hardly moved at all, so, no chance of blowing a hose off!!

You'll have plenty of pipe & hose left for other projects down the line too!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/442213-intercooler/#findComment-7268522
Share on other sites

I just noticed you posted a link to a most helpful tutorial lol. went to frozenboost.com and all the parts youll need comes in au$100 cheaper inc. delivery (us$477)than the cooling pro (au$599) AND its more efficient.. AND there's no cutting of anything required.. lovely.. do want

Edited by c34Florry
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/442213-intercooler/#findComment-7268562
Share on other sites

The intercoolers most companies market (horizontal flow) are fairly useless for the applications most people use them for. The might be ok IF you are running in excess of 30psi & 150 degrees C.

Check this link out, its FULL of equations. This link should be stickied for anyone wanting to create a good combo!

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/turbo/turboflow.html

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/442213-intercooler/#findComment-7270457
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From my youth: GTi-R clutch change is a massive pain. The gearboxes are fragile? But the car is super cool and I want one 馃槩 
    • Remember this is 1988 tech.
    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
  • Create New...