Tuning Question

[dazgib]

Im looking for opinions on whether to go for Power FC or Nistune'setup. i have a S2 R33 GTST with Pod Filter, 3" High Flow Cat Back, RB20 Turbo Actuator and a Walbro 255

Im not looking for crazy power and will not be changing from stock turbo in the future either.

I also just have the stock SMIC but would upgrade to FMIC or R34 SMIC if needed.

Also, where in WA would you recommend to get it mapped/tuned

thanks

[Blackkers]

Nice setup. You can probably pick up a used powerfc quite cheaply 2nd hand. Otherwise you could contact Toshi in sydney for a Nistune ECU with a base tune on it.

I'm not from WA so I can't recommend any workshops that could help you.

But if you're asking which is better for you then neither really. Nistune and PowerFC are both good options that will serve you well.

Make sure you don't buy a nistuned RB20 ECU though if you go 2nd hand. they don't have VCT control onboard so your tuner will have to wire up a switch and their time is $$. Good luck

edit: also a decent dump/front pipe and 4"ish cat will net you a nice gain in response and maybe a bit of top end hp for what is a fairly cheap and easy job.

Edited April 23, 2014 by Blackkers

[75coupe]

Go talk to a few tuners in your area find out which one they prefer to work with

[Badgaz]

what mods do you actually have to change from stock ecu for?

[dazgib]

@badgaz

theres a misfire on full throttle from 4.5 to 5.5k revs and fine after that so thats one of the reasons i want to get a map done as well as its going to be quicker and more efficient hopefully

i was thinkin the increase in boost might have confused the ECU maybe.

I have a brand new fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs gapped to 0.8, brand new OEM coils and brand new pink label AFM and still it misfires bad. its not my daily so i wont be drivin it until I get this sorted

[Badgaz]

how much did you up the boost to?

[dazgib]

just fitted a RB20 turbo actuator so 10psi

[75coupe]

A tuneable ecu makes a great difference even with only minor mods

[Badgaz]

yeah while i don't disagree with you the factory ecu does a pretty good job, i just thought it was a strange place to jump to when there isn't really any modifications he has that necessitate the aftermarket ecu, with no closed loop protection from the factory ecu you rely heavily on the tuner....so if you do go ahead with one make sure you tell the tuner how you want your car to be and feel e.g safe tune not at limites responsive etc.

[Badgaz]

i also assume you have tried to search for the millions of 4000-5000rpm misfire threads....i'd recommend a powefc...yes i'm a little bias but you get the handy controller which allows you to see your sensor functions and also change your settings on the fly....i use mine to set my rev limit to 500rpm when i'm parked at the shops or in an area i don't trust.

[dazgib]

ye badgaz ive been reading misfire threads for weeks. they all say coilpacks but mine are brand new and ive a splitfire earthing kit too so it must be timing/fuel related causing it to miss.

its popping like mad between 4.5 and 5.5

[Ben C34]

yeah while i don't disagree with you the factory ecu does a pretty good job, i just thought it was a strange place to jump to when there isn't really any modifications he has that necessitate the aftermarket ecu, with no closed loop protection from the factory ecu you rely heavily on the tuner....so if you do go ahead with one make sure you tell the tuner how you want your car to be and feel e.g safe tune not at limites responsive etc.

That closed loop protection comment is weird.

The only closed loop function of the ecu is maintaining stoichiometric fuel ratio at cruise. Nothing else as a safeguard as you implied

[Badgaz]

so what are the knock sensors for then? i guess i might be using 'closed loop' in a broader sense and not just the fuel mixture sense.

Edited April 23, 2014 by Badgaz

[Badgaz]

ye badgaz ive been reading misfire threads for weeks. they all say coilpacks but mine are brand new and ive a splitfire earthing kit too so it must be timing/fuel related causing it to miss.

its popping like mad between 4.5 and 5.5

have you checked that your base timing is at 15 degrees?

[enka]

go for nistune for cheapy cheap.. or adaptronic... ilike this more than pfc

[wolverine]

Nistune will require an R32 (but no VCT without extra work) or Z32 ecu to work on an R33 GTS-t.

PowerFC at the right price is a reasonable option but there are other more modern options that you can explore.

Time to talk to your tuner.

[dazgib]

have you checked that your base timing is at 15 degrees?

youve lost me here. i wouldnt have the foggiest how to go about this.

I might go the nistune route then if I can find someone to do it around Perth to do it

[wolverine]

Maybe I should be clearer, Nistune is not a good option on an R33.

[GTSBoy]

Maybe I should be clearer, Nistune is not a good option on an R33.

I concur here. I like Nistune a lot. But for an R33 you'd be better off getting Toshi to directly remap the R33 ECU if you absolutely need to keep it cheap and stockish ECU. Otherwise, given that I don't particularly like PowerFCs (not that they're bad, they're just old and crude compared to more recent options) you'd be well advised to go Adaptronic, or just about any other reputable aftermarket ECU. After all, once the ECU is no longer Nissan (and therefore less likely to be noticed and defected), you might as well go the whole hog with aftermarket.

[Badgaz]

youve lost me here. i wouldnt have the foggiest how to go about this.

I might go the nistune route then if I can find someone to do it around Perth to do it

you need to set your base timing....if you don't know what that is....then i'd suggest you take it to a mechanic to check or alternatively learn how to do it from these forums...

base timing is where the engine ignition advance starts....This is usually 15 degrees Before Top Dead Centre.for the rb25det.

as others have said nistune for r33's isn't straight forward as you need to start with a different ecu from the get go. (z32 one is best) you'd be best going for an aftermarket one like the adaptronic or powerfc or haltech etc.