R32 Gts-T Rb25 Track Car

[Strick.]

Thanks mate, makes sence considering it wasnt hooked up anyways.

[Strick.]

Have had a bit of time to work on the car lately so an update:

A few parts i had ordered and bought of fellow members all arrived at once which meant i could start work

Started with the oil filter relocation, so took off all the factory oil cooler and adaptor stud. Put in a Raw Brokerage adaptor stud, adaptor plate, speedflow 10AN fittings including an adaptor for the factory pressure sender so i dont have warning lights on the dash

Then was installing the plenum, Greddy copy

Fuel rail, after cutting off the extra fuel supply line not needed

Whist waiting to pick up an injector cap, which the shop broke and failed to tell me when they were flowing and servicing the injectors!! Either way replaced the valve cover gaskets. Not sure if this is clean for an RB25 or not but looked pritty good to me. Not too much build up of old oil at all

Left hand side

Right hand side

Injectors plus harness on, now have the last cap on there too

New NKG BCPR7ES.11 spark plugs, coil packs back on and my engine is more complete than it has been for weeks!!

Now fitting up vac hoses and remaining hoses. Have a throttle body adaptor sitting here too, however when pulling apart my throttle body the hoses on the bottom of it are rusted closed so am after a replacement if you have one.

Whilst on that can anyone tell me where the two small hoses on the throttle body run to?

Have also bought all the required parts to move my battery to the boot. Will be using an isolator switch to hook up new and old positive cables. Have a 100amp resetable switch which i will bolt close to the battery.

Installing that will involve me pulling out the interior too, so i can get it neat and tidy, plus will be pulling out all the interior anyways so may as well do it all at once.

So thats where it is as of now, will be continuing to work on it when ever i have the chance

Cheers

Edited June 8, 2014 by Strick.

[Bushy]

Good progress mate. The hoses you're talking about on the throttle body sound like the coolant lines, if they're rusted up just clamp them in a vice and pull them out, they're not needed. I think the idea was to keep the throttle body warm in cold climates to prevent the butterfly jamming. Just make sure you blank off the hoses.

If you feel like tidying things up a little more you could extend the injector plugs and run the loom under the manifold. And turn the fuel reg around and poke the return line up between the runners.

[Strick.]

Ah, when i was looking at it again that makes alot of sense. think i saw someone else just block them off too, cheers.

I was thinking that when i was putting the injectors back on, good idea!

[Strick.]

Hooked up a few more hoses today:

Fuel and some vacuum hoses. have one outlet left, im wondering if its for the throttle body (top right of the throttle body outlet). if it is ill just block it off. Have put the aftermarket boost gauge line in the a T piece coming out of the factory boost gauge line.

Found this dual boost controller line like this:

So will have to figure why is wasnt plumbed up.

Stripped out the boot, has had water in it at some stage, bit of surface rust so will sort that. Standard fuel pump booo!!! So will put a Bosch 040 in there soon

Started to strip out the interior too, got the seats out then it started rain so only have the before pics and will continue to strip it out this week when i have a chance

Work continues, cheers!

[Bushy]

Not sure what the vac nipple on the throttle body is for, mines blocked off though.

Should have vac lines for fuel reg, standard boost gauge, actuator, BOV, AAC, PCV and brake booster from memory.

I'd just run a single stage boost T, and get rid of that hose with a screw in it as it will leak. Also good idea to pressure test the intake as you will probably find boost leaks you would not otherwise know about, may as well sort it all out now.

[Strick.]

Ive read that its possibly for a boost controller of some sort, or boose gauge. not sure how accurate it would be!

I think ive missed the actuator vacuum line! will check it out and fix it up, have the others hooked up though which is reassuring. Was going too hook the hose back up to the boost controller, again reading about them- they help with boost eg more consistant and on sooner so will work it out to get it working correctly, plus it was already there!!

Whats a good way to pressure test the system? Should have the piping and cooler done within the month, im guessing ill need a complete system before i do the test.

Need to fill all the engine oil, coolant fluids and bleed clutch, brake systems so will have a bit of reading in the best way to do these. So many differing opinions on that type of thing!

Edited June 10, 2014 by Strick.

[Bushy]

I got a PVC plumbing cap from Mitre 10 and drilled a hole in the end for a tyre valve, then used a 2.75-2.5" silicon reducer to attach it to the cooler piping. Make sure you clamp it properly so it doesn't fly off when you pressurise it, 10-20 psi is plenty. It was then pretty easy to hear/feel any leaks, can also use soapy water. I found that even with all boost leaks fixed pressure would still drop slowly, I suspect it was getting past rings, so don't spend hours looking for leaks if yours does the same, any boost leaks in intake will be pretty obvious.

[Strick.]

Ah, very good idea that thank you!

[Strick.]

Bushy, you mentioned that one vacuum line from the plenum should go to the actuator, is this cabled up wrong or am i looking at the wrong part haha. Still getting my head around RBs and turbos (NA V8 background)

[Strick.]

Bushy, you mentioned that one vacuum line from the plenum should go to the actuator, is this cabled up wrong or am i looking at the wrong part haha. Still getting my head around RBs and turbos (NA V8 background)

[Strick.]

Bushy, you mentioned that one vacuum line from the plenum should go to the actuator, is this cabled up wrong or am i looking at the wrong part haha. Still getting my head around RBs and turbos (NA V8 background)

[Strick.]

Bushy, you mentioned that one vacuum line from the plenum should go to the actuator, is this cabled up wrong or am i looking at the wrong part haha. Still getting my head around RBs and turbos (NA V8 background)

[Strick.]

whoops, not sure how i got so many posts up at once!

Edited June 12, 2014 by Strick.

[Bushy]

I didn't realise you've got the brass fitting on the compressor housing, in that case you don't need a vac line from the inlet manifold as well.

I've got no idea now that dual stage manual boost controller works so not sure if it's setup properly. I just have a single stage boost T that is inline between the inlet manifold and actuator (or compressor housing in your case). Someone else will have to chip in here.

[Strick.]

Ah, perfect thanks mate. think ill just block it off. Seems like there is nothing else that needs to have a vacuum feed on it.

After going on the turbosmart website, seems like its hooked up correctly (when the line is hooked up) so not sure there. It does need a computer and tune, maybe thats why it was disconnected.

[Strick.]

Finished up the battery relocation. Came up pritty well and nice and neat. Works perfectly, including positive action on the circuit breaker and cut of switch. Used the cut off switch as a way to link up the new positive cable with the existing cable. Was a bitch to get it in behind the fuse box like that but got it done!!

Cut off switch

Cable up under the front guard following the factory harness

Again following the factory harness

Earth strap, seems to earth it all well when i tested it with the multi-meter

Finished product!

Quick look of how the dash looks at the moment

Also in some of the pics you can see the interior is now stripped. Will put some of the dash back in, up to the front of the gear shifter. Have it all out so that i can get rid of all the glue and sound deadening using dry ice, another job on the list!

Also have the throttle body all hooked up ready for the piping to get made

Cheers

Edited June 18, 2014 by Strick.

[Strick.]

Few more jobs out of the way.

Installed the lock bar after removing the Hicas. Found it like this:

With no lines going to the engine bay, win job half done! Explains the Hicas warning light too. When the conversion was done they must of kept the non-hicas power steering pump on the engine and just not hooked it up, works for me.

Lock bar on:

Just have the wire to cut so i done have a warning light.

Pic of the diff, does this look like a standard R32 diff? Im not sure what it is, would be great if someone knew, has these markings on the bottom of it, 94 represent the year? Would make it an R33 of some sort im guessing

While I had the car up on 4 stands had a look underneath, tail shaft looks pritty new. Im guessing this is a custom one to make it all work with the gearbox

Pic of the exhaust while i had it off, its bluddy massive

Bigger rear sway bar, another win

Can anyone confirm if this is a R33 gearbox?

Chipped off some of the sound deadening so i could get the dash back in, when doing the whole car ill get some dry ice. Quick coat of paint, then got most of the dash back in. no pics as it got dark very quickly

Cheers

Edited June 22, 2014 by Strick.

[Mikha1]

Yep, looks like a r33 gtst gearbox to me (from the outside at least). I have seen a fair few in my time.

If you want to control boost cheaply and reliably, you can throw in a turbotech boost tee in between your actuator and pressure source.

The turbo looks like a china 400-500hp job. Depending where they come from, some people have been running them reliably. Others have had disastrous endings. I would replace with a kinugawa or holset for peace of mind.

Yes, the tailshaft would have been altered to suit the longer r33 gtst gear box.

[Mikha1]

That diff looks factory r32 gtst r200 from the outside. I cant confirm from the castings though. Castings generally are not a real good indication in knowing, as people tend to change the centres for aftermarket items. Perhaps the most important thing about the diff is knowing the ratio and whether it hooks up both wheels.

R33 r200 diffs usually have a different back plate (mostly interchangeable with other nissan diffs), so if it looks like its been resealed recently, there's potential it could be a different diff or perhaps just simply opened up.

You should have an orange 'viscous lsd' sticker on the side, which could be covered in dirt