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That diff looks factory r32 gtst r200 from the outside. I cant confirm from the castings though. Castings generally are not a real good indication in knowing the type, as people tend to change the centres for aftermarket items. Perhaps the most important thing about the diff is knowing the ratio and whether it hooks up both wheels

  • 2 weeks later...

Yeah fair call, after being underneath it there is the same amount of rubber on both sides so it must hook up ok haha!!

Finally finished getting rid of all the glue and sound deadener, what a crap job haha!! Glad its done now, got rid of about 15kg worth.

Found some surface rust and a few rust holes that ill need to weld up.

Next step is to weld up the holes, tidy up and then paint.

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Parcel shelf to go however, will knock that over soon.

Also console back in, keeping the AC and heater to retain comfort! This is as much of the trim as im putting back in however.

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Cheers

  • Like 1

Bit of an update, might not look like much work but it was haha!!!

After a bit of youtube watching and a few questions on the forums i started welding. Havn't done it since school, however havn't done any sheet metal work before. I started blowing through the metal, so bought some new, smaller mig wire and was all good. Welds were getting better as the day went on.

Started welding the grommets in

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Then small amount of bog, pre sanding

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Welded up a few rust holes in the boot after treating the rust

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Now i have a night of sanding, then a few nights of painting. Few coats of etch primer, then primer finishing with a few coats of semi gloss black

Then will be putting in the seats, buying an intercooler have settled on a tube and fin, DVS JEZ will be doing the intercooler pipework for me. Once thats done i can finish the oil filer relocation and cooler, all fluids, computer and tune then skids!

Edited by Strick.
  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks mate, not too many updates as ive been bluddy sick so taking away time to work on it haha.

Oil control, at this point not too much. Will be oil pressure and temp gauges installed, along with filter relocation and oil cooler. Will see how it goes, if i have dramas i might baffle the sump.

Will also have a 3l catch can.

  • 1 month later...
Well time to update this, had a few things happen.


The painted interior came up pritty well, up close its rough in places but still happy with it.


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Seats in, the Sparco provides a fantastic driving position and nice and snug


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Sheetmetal panel made for fake Defi gauges, oil pressure and temp


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Next was to remove the fuel tank to get rid of the old fuel. Replace the fuel pump with a Bosch 040 and chuck in a relay so it gets full voltage so the pump is working as best it can.


When i pulled the pump out, found it already had a 040, win now have a spare.


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New wiring, and tidied up in the boot


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Next was have the intercooler piping made up. Came up really well


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Now that thats in, oil lines can be finished up. Had the lines re-sized by Pirtek, installed the cooler and filter relocation. Note the lines into the filter relocation, yeah they are around the wrong way. For future reference for anyone out there doing this, filters flow in through the middle and out through the side. Its the opposite when hooking a sandwich plate up to the block... more on that later.


Also have the sensors for temp and pressure on the filter block.


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Was pushing to get it done (not the reason i hooked the lines up wrong, i thought i did it right), cheers Sydney weather


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Time to start...... started up, win..... Not so much. As i stated before i hooked up the oil pressure lines the wrong way and this was the result of no oil to the top end.




Thats what an RB25DET sounds like with no oil flow.


Rectified the issue, went to restart the next day. Wouldnt start but was turning over, then it seized. Wonderful. All the while iam booked in for 3 days time with Jez to have the tune done. Wasnt lucky at all that my mistake would not cause too much damage, had the full force of a mistake come down on me! Also when taking out the spark plugs looks like there as something bouncing around hitting the plus. Could be a valve, not sure.


So that leads to a phone call to Skyline parts for a bare long RB25DET series 2 block on Thursday, with pick up yesterday (Friday).


Still stuck to my time line though, had organised with Jez (DVS tuning) to do the engine swap as well as the tune he will just keep it longer. So it now sits like this


Arrived at Jez shop


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Wonderful day! bitter sweet feeling, was so close to getting the tune done and now it needs a new engine


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Now in place at the workshop to get the engine replaced, will give it a freshen up too whilst its out and easy. Jez will tune it nice and safe to be used all day long without issue. Just putting in a Nistune computer which will be enough for the current application.


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Looking forward to being able to drive it in anger, when i get it back only a few jobs to have done:


Wheel alignment

Corner weigh

Hydraulic handbrake

Fire extinguisher



Will have it back in a month


Been a month or so of up and downs, but what is done is done. Will be wrapped to have it back and usable.

  • 4 weeks later...
Update time!


Picked the car up from Jez the mechanic/tuner today. Am stoked to have it back.


While he had it he did the following:


Replaced the engine with another series 2 RB25DET


On the engine replaced:

Rear main seal

Timing belt

Water pump

Filters, lines, gaskets etc

Cam seals

Belts etc


Also replaced

An engine mount

Alloy radiator as the factory one burst a tank


Tuned using a Z32 ECU with Nistune. Ended up with 195RWKW and 550NM. Tuned at 16 PSI however its an aftermarket factory turbo. Doesnt worry me as everything is set up for me to get more power with another turbo when its needed.


Few jobs to finish up now i have it back in the shed


Fit 3l catch can

Fire extinguisher

Front strut brace

Bonnet pins

Hydraulic handbrake


Will also give it it first wash since ownership (about a year!).


Booked in with Heasman Steering on Tuesday for an alignment and corner weight. Then off to the drags on wednesday so i can weigh it and have some fun in the car finally. Then a motorkhana with the SAU on the 26th.


Wrapped to be finally driving it and enjoying it.


Few pics:


Seized exhaust cam from lack of oil


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Replacing the timing belt etc


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On the dyno


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And picked up from the tuner, bluddy great day!!


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Should get a bit of work done to it over the long weekend too

Edited by Strick.

Thanks mate, tryed to make it decent on the inside. Few little things but i also didnt spend thousands on the paint haha.

Yeah, I wasnt lucky at all. didnt even have it running for long. Oh well all back together and am finally almost done.

So a bit of work over the weekend.

3 litre catch can in, pritty bluddy big but needed for CAMS. Front strut brace, fire extinguisher and cleaned up the ECU. Will most likely put it in the glove box a bit down the track.

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Last job is the hydraulic handbrake. Im currently 40cm worth of braided brake line away from being bluddy finished! The kit from HEL is pritty good, however the line from the master cylinder to the handbrake is 40cm too short. So will be a rush to Pirtek tomorrow before work, then fitting it up and bleeding the brakes during my lunch break, then off to Heasman Steering for an alignment and corner weighing. Hopefully it all goes to plan tomorrow!

Plus gave it a wash, after a year of ownership!

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Last, the dyno chart from Jez. Its only a turbo away from decent power. Current power perfect for me at the moment.

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Thanks mate, very happy to be near the end so i can enjoy it.

Handbrake in, not bleed correctly so ill need to check that out, must be doing it wrong.

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Found some surface rust where the passenger sill has taken a bit of a hit, cleaned all that up and sprayed on some stone guard. Also cleaned up the underside of where i had welded. Both the plates and little holes that were no longer needed. Covered that with stone guard after some kill rust so hopfully nothing with get stuck in there.

Finished interior for now!

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Booked in for Tuesday for 4 wheel alignment and corner weighing at Heasman Steering. Then its track time! Not sure what will be the first event. Have booked the motorkhana but would like to get it out to the drags to have a drive and weigh it first.

Cheers

  • 3 weeks later...

Right so the next update,

Took the car down to Heasman Steering to get an alignment and corner weight. Corner weight is now within .5KG on the front. Its out a few in the back but the main thing is the weight is the same on the front wheels.

Some pics whilst I was down there, were some great cars going through and a few getting ready for WTAC

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All packed up for the Motorkhana that was being held out at Narimba Tafe....

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Didnt end well for me! Was getting to 4000 revs and cutting out. Checked everything starting with the pump, including pulling the plugs (thanks to Jez for suggestions on what to check). In the end the fuel pump had carked it. So I now know what it sounds like and acts when the fuel pump simply cant keep up. Now has a new Walbro in place, much much quieter than the Bosch i have to say.

Will now wait paitently while I find a free weekend to take the car out. With work and moving interstate i doubt I will actually get it out until next year.

The next thing on the shopping list is an AGI bolt in half cage as its needed for drift events in Vic, so that will be ordered soon and installed at the start of next year. At the same time ill be putting in a genuine Takata harness for me and a fake for the passenger seat. Will re-asses the fake once i see how it handles it/ how many people will actually be in the seat.

  • 2 weeks later...

Nice build mate. I remember when you posted on the forums looking for a motor a while ago when the motor seized. I remember feeling like crap for you. And then stumbled accross your build thread and linked the 2 together. Hope it all goes well from here.

As a piece of advice though mate (for what its worth) do not run fake harnesses or seats on a track car. And do not run a harness on the stock 32 passenger seat. If you have a passenger one day and things dont go well, your fake harness running on a stock 32 seat will do a whole lot of damage than it would help. It may look pretty but its a terrible idea. If you want to run a passenger harness, get a proper seat and a proper harness. Otherwise keep the seat and belt stock.

Amir

Gday mate, thanks for your support. its been massive to get to where it is now!

You raise a fair point! The drivers Sparco seat and Takata harness are genuine but the passenger one i have got isnt. You raise a very good point with the fake harness for the passenger.

It will be hooked up to a roll cage, is it the angles that do it? My thinking was that it would hold the passenger snug to the seat, more so than just the standard seat belt.

Even if its hooked up to the cage. On a stock seat it will basically flow over the seat and not have any guidance as opposed to a racing seat where it has specific holes to go into. Of course when things are ok it will hold the passenger snug, but in the case of a crash, the shoulder belts will come loose and depending on the impact, can cut into your passenger's neck. And being a fake harness could even break under load. A lot of people who decide to run seats and harnesses unfortunately do not take into account what would happen in a crash; which is when you need these things the most. They tend to go based on how they are like under normal driving conditions. Yes the fake harness on the stock seat will hold the passenger snug but thats only under normal driving. I definitely will never run a set up like that because it is way too risky.

From the few times I've been out on the track, I have seen so many people run harnesses in the wrong way. This guide should be of some help http://www.schrothracing.com/sdocs/2009_Competition_Instructions.pdf

  • Like 1

Thanks for that mate.

Cage ordered, AGI bolt in half cage with the extra diagonal bar (wont be getting the eye hooks for a harness, im going to loop it directly over the bar)

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Ill be moving to Vic soon, hence the CAMS cage as its needed to do any drifting in Vic. So im hoping to get to a drag night so i know the car actually will work how it should, then first event looks like it will be the Matsuri at Winton in Feb. Dont really have anything to do to it before the event either so will have to be very patient!

The sound deadener on in the foot wells, boot and similar areas is best removed using dry ice. With the wheel arches and vertical/slopy areas I used a heat gun and a scraper when I did my car and the wax and grease remover

Amir

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