Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After disconnecting my battery, when i try to unlock the car using my remote, it beeps and unlocks the doors for a split second before it locks them again. If i use the key to get in, the alarm goes off, but when i'm in the car, when i push the unlock button on the door panel it does the same thing. The alarm and immobilizer were already in the car when i bought it so i dont really have any information :/

any tips or advice will be awesome as i have no idea what i'm doing haha

thanks :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/442300-r33-alarm-trouble/
Share on other sites

Sounds like a locking issue. However expecting an immediate answer may be a bit much given you posted within an hour of the first post.

Some of us only look at this area every few days.

What alarm is installed?

do you have more than 1 fob to control it?

might be the button is stuck.

Can you start and drive the car at all? what happens.?

How long have you had the car? Did this just start happening? Something spill on the fob or alarm box?

I wonder if a flattening battery in fob can cause false signals..

i only have one fob and its only happened since disconnecting the car battery.

no idea what the alarm is, it was in the car when i bought it around 15 months ago (ish)

Nothing has spilt or damaged either at all.

The car runs normally, but even when i hit the unlock switch, the same thing still happens :/

Edited by R33-GTS
  • 3 weeks later...

hey guys, i still can't open the drivers door -.- I managed to get the door card of but manually pulling on any of the rods still does nothing.

The key wont even unlock it from the outside -

does anyone know whats wrong? or a way of getting the door open?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
    • I dunno what the "best" one is....but when my 040 died late last year, after about 20 years of screaming service....I put in a 255. Like any such thing, you have to finagle it a little bit - it's not a no-brain swap. But it's not hard.
×
×
  • Create New...