Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The inlet track to the turbine is opened up all the way around. It even injects air under the turbine by about 40% Do you think this is why I have 20psi at 4700rpm and when running 25psi it goes from 25 at 4850 to 18psi at 6500..

Yes this is partially why I think you have lag issues, it is what's referred to as exhaust gas interference. The reason your boost is decreasing in higher rpm is due to the loss of efficiency through the interference.

On the video you've uploaded earlier, I've noticed the right hand actuator has a spring hooked on to the base. Will you be able to repeat the test with that spring removed?

Here is the standard actuator travel test as requested... Travel identical as per the external spring.

https://youtu.be/h9JGm1vsTjw

Here are the long awaited results of the intense billet rs... The dyno graph shows the intense billet rs (blue) vs Hypergear ss2 rev 2 (red) both running just under 30 psi on pump e85 with identical settings and dynoed within days of eachother.

post-141141-0-82747500-1448368160_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2

Here are the long awaited results of the intense billet rs... The dyno graph shows the intense billet rs (blue) vs Hypergear ss2 rev 2 (red) both running just under 30 psi on pump e85 with identical settings and dynoed within days of eachother.

Thanks Rick.

Pretty stoked with how the new turbo feels on the road, The car feels light and responsive in comparison which surprised me given the increase in power. Now I have a genuine 300kw with the response we all chase.

This works well with the stock converter, I am able to easily push 10+psi at stall when stationary allowing a decent launch. Looks like we built the perfect turbo first time around.

Hopefully I can get some time to head down to Calder or Heathcote for a 1/4 run soon, I suspect this will surprise.

  • Like 4

That's a 3000rpm convertor?

I sold the 3k converter to Fishingfreak with the GTX kit. My current converter has a stock stator with a beefed up triple Patrol lockup clutch, which I ran to a 12v switch for tuning purposes. It should react exactly the same as a stock box in manual mode 3rd gear.

The blue line stops at 7k, the red was 7600 revs to compare the speed axis.

  • Like 1

In that case 10psi on the stock convertor (2200-2300rpm?) is a huge improvement over my 2psi. I would expect launch control/ignition retard would work also since 10psi is already in the spool zone. Onto a good thing there.

Is it ball bearing?

Looks like a KTS billet compressor wheel which responds better than the GTX copy billet wheels from what I have tested due to the slim root(lighter, larger blade area per wheel diameter), extended tips(more flow for minimal rotational mass increase), thin blade(lighter, higher efficiency) and high blade design(blade area increase).

Matt

Happy to give you a call to discuss it Matt, PM me your number.

It's still a bush core highflow, but there is zero shaft play unlike the Hypergear offerings. I can only assume that's why his require so much oil flow, these do not. I don't think Tao understands VQ25's run over 10 bar oil pressure, even though I have explained it to him many times, why he insists on running such loose shaft tolerances I have no idea, it only forces him to give the turbine/compressor wheels more clearance from the housings which is detrimental to efficiency. He is stuck in RB land.

I would like to get the launch ignition retard working, but I will do that on the Link, my tuner isn't confident on the HKS to get that operating, and I would need a speed input. Time for another ECU upgrade. :)

it all becomes clear. I did note a fair clearance on the comp wheel side...as you say for end float compensation.

Yes speed input is required. I used the yellow wire with black trace from the TCU(it's close to center).

EMU settings: 16 pulse and 32% correction factor.

Edited by BoostdR

Tao is quite determined to make up for the previous lack of on car evaluation. We should see some new products coming soon which is all good for us M35 owners..

"how we react after we have made a mistake defines who we are"

yes it got a bit messy while the facts were coming out but we are all flawed in some way. I'm not one to hold a grudge if the offender is willing to make good.

Here are the long awaited results of the intense billet rs... The dyno graph shows the intense billet rs (blue) vs Hypergear ss2 rev 2 (red) both running just under 30 psi on pump e85 with identical settings and dynoed within days of eachother.

post-141141-0-82747500-1448368160_thumb.

No, The red line was not from the a SS2 Rev 2, its just your turbo running longer dyno ramp.

This is SS2 Rev 2, running 22psi. E85 fuel limited to actuator travel. Compare red n red then Blue to Blue to yours.

The new turbo doesn't appears to be more responsive on paper unless there are other changes made to the car.

power.jpg

lol, someone's a sore loser. I'm getting more and more disappointed with you with every reply.

I only did what was asked of me, I legitimately went out of my way to test the differences between the two turbo's, discounting the fact that my SS2 was a noisy pos shagged turbo anyway. The noises it made at nearly 30 pounds were absolutely hilarious. I couldn't wait to get it off my car. I can't believe you tried to tell me it was normal.

Now you have decided to call me a liar? Shame on you Tao, I was a good customer of yours until this debacle, now everyone is seeing you for what you are, full of crap. Go and check the graph out if you like, as my tuner has advised you want to, try and prove we somehow fudged the figures. Infact why don't you put your car on the dyno and show us how responsive your latest development is. :P

PS, learn to read a graph, that one is in RPM which isn't very accurate with an auto gearboxes at the best of times... You have a lot to learn mate.

No, The red line was not from the a SS2 Rev 2, its just your turbo running longer dyno ramp.

You really have no idea when to stop do you tao? Calling myself, Scotty and cihan liars just goes to show the level you have stooped too. We have put in a huge amount of work into this development and I think it is very unprofessional for you to be making accusations without facts to back it up.

Edited by Intense m35

Fisrt of all. I respect who evers work and efforts in developments of a new product. I certainly not calling any one lairs.

Because the shape of the curve appeared to be quite different to an earlier run I have seen and the comparison had identical ramp up shape down low. Hence my suspicion and questions.

Of course Im not quitting til I beat your result. Further researches will be conducted.

Fisrt of all. I respect who evers work and efforts in developments of a new product. I certainly not calling any one lairs.

Because the shape of the curve appeared to be quite different to an earlier run I have seen and the comparison had identical ramp up shape down low. Hence my suspicion and questions.

Further researches will be conducted.

As I read your post " no the red line was not from the ss2 rev 2 it's just your turbo running longer dyno ramp" says you are calling me a liar! There was no suspecision, it was a outright accusation And also if you believe our turbo isn't more responsive and what not, let's just settle this by you coming for a drive!

While doing our best to keep out of the tit for tat - as both Scotty and Hypergear are Etuner customers - I can confirm that Scott did in fact bring the car back in for another dyno session to be able to demonstrate an apples to apples comparison between the turbos.

14th August : 8495S - 271awkw ; un-locked converter SS2 turbo 22psi
19th November : 9524S - 281awkw ; locked converter SS2 turbo, maxed out
24th November : 9546S - 303awkw ; locked converter new turbo, maxed out

Both are no doubt very stellar results from a "bolt-on" turbo on an otherwise internally standard engine.

Cihan @ Etuner

Edited by Cihan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The steering wheel on my 97 s3 gtr is a little bit worn out, so im on the hunt for something mint. I notice that this type of steering wheel is on several other nissan's of the era.  Does anyone know if their all identical, or are there slight differences? I feel like gtr tax applies to anyone selling one, but if it comes from any other car the price is much less, even though its the same design.  Chat gpt says the material for the gtr is slightly different and it says gtr on the wheel, but every pic ive seen it just says nissan. 
    • I might have to say it.
    • Ahh... it's an early RE5R01A box, that means the pinouts I gave are wrong (they were for the RE4R01A 4-speed box)... I'll have to dig around in my docs to see if I've got that schematic (they used the same gearbox plug, with the vacant pin wired to the direct drive clutch solenoid)...prolly hidden away in a supplement somewhere... ...there were 3 variants of the RE5R01A ~ this early schema was what we called the 'dumb' 5 speed ; it's what jatco called a 'medium duty' box, with torque holding up roughly ~200ft/lbs or so, which was good for NA from RB20/25DE and up to around VG30 output spec. With the RB25DET (and VG33/35 mills), the only options they had was the 4-speed 4AX00 box, which had been beefed up to handle the extra torque (primarily for the VG35, but it also suited the RB25DET mill and others)...and the RE4R03 box in large 4WDs a lot of the time... ...the next variant of 5-speed was redesigned, stronger, and 'smart'...first ones had external TCU with internal (on valvebody) Shift Control Unit, pressure switches, and 2 x TSS...and the last ones had internal TCU+SCU setup, with CANbus control etc etc. @DRoc81 On the RHS of the box towards the rear, there should be a stamped silver ID tag -- what's the model number? Oh...and with the early 5-speeds, the torque converter control solenoid assembly should be replaced as well (31940-60X00)...it's a bit Murphy's Law ....if one has failed, bet on the rest not being far behind ...
    • I remembered wrong, but was close though 1Kz setting because those Jaycar SSRs don't go any faster, 1x pump per SSR with flyback diodes & heatsinks. In saying that, the heatsinks are overkill. Just on an alloy plate is more than sufficient. You'll find without a flyback diode, your SSRs will heat up big time and also die prematurely.  I've been running the two same SSRs since the last motor, no issues, car does 2 hour straight drives in summer once in a while and gets punished on the track. Nothing melts, no hot messes, etc.    
    • Hmm. You're probably best off working out what the lobe centreline or even the LSA is for the stock cams, with VCT OFF. That's bound to be out there somewhere. Then, work on the assumption that the Kelford centreline is probably the same, and wouldn't be more than a couple of degrees away, if it is different at all. I'm very surprised that you needed to adjust the exhaust cam by 5° to get it on spec. That screams there's another problem somewhere. Anything from the belt being 1 tooth off (how many degrees is one tooth worth?) to simple user/measurement error on the degree wheel. I say this because Kelford, like most quality cam manufacturers these days, does a pretty good job of actually making the cams to spec, not relying on patching it up afterwards like we had to do back in the 80s.
×
×
  • Create New...