Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 2016-5-18 at 9:03 AM, BoostdR said:

Currently running 16.8 degrees timing in 3rd gear. I increased timing by 5 degrees this morning and it was considerably quicker. Smoking all 4 tyres on accel.

My concern is however the timing is gear specific as controlled by the OEM ECU. Increasing the timing that suits 3rd will cause huge timing figures in the lower gears...possibly explaining why Tao's M35 exploded in 2nd gear at part throttle.

There is a speed vs fuel map in the EMU however no speed vs timing. I might look at translating speed to a 0-5v signal to utilize the temp vs timing map in the EMU since the OEM ECU handles that anyway.

There is no question we have more power to be extracted. I just want to be smart about how it is controlled.

post-49288-14635261522212_thumb.jpg

Matt I just put an Itsrom chip in my fairly standard car and am impressed. I don't know this, but if the timing is controlled by the ECU perhaps Christian can flash you an ECU which addresses the issues of silly timing in lower gears, 1st gear wheelspin etc?  He is very helpful  in my experience. Forgive me if this seems stupid but if the issue is the ECU ... addressing the issue there seems to make sense ... assuming Christian can do that...

  • 2 months later...
  • 2 years later...

Wow, what a read. Big thanks to all of those that have contributed to the continued development of these things.

I see Hypergear have a range of options on their site, and am leaning toward RV3 / RV4 based on current mods and future plans. - Could these be 'detuned' with a boost controller like the Innovate SCG1, while I work on other supporting mods like stand alone and fuel system?

Did Intense ever come through with a v2?

 

15 hours ago, Tumble said:

Wow, what a read. Big thanks to all of those that have contributed to the continued development of these things.

I see Hypergear have a range of options on their site, and am leaning toward RV3 / RV4 based on current mods and future plans. - Could these be 'detuned' with a boost controller like the Innovate SCG1, while I work on other supporting mods like stand alone and fuel system?

Did Intense ever come through with a v2?

 

Don't see why you couldn't limit boost with a cheap bleed screw type device.

On 1/31/2020 at 6:26 AM, KiwiRS4T said:

Don't see why you couldn't limit boost with a cheap bleed screw type device.

I was a bit confused and was hoping you could do as you suggested, I spoke with HG, you can't limit minimum pressure. Going for the RV2 for the time being :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If it's magnetic what is stopping you from using a magnet on a thin wire from fishing it out?
    • Those 2 solenoids in that assembly I mention, are the PWM solenoids for torque converter lock-up clutch & EPC (line pressure control) ~ when most folks hear of 'solenoid failure', the tendency is to think electrical failure...but fact of the matter is, especially wrt the EPC solenoid (which is moving/running all the time), you can have an electrically 'good' solenoid, that's absolutely broken/worn out mechanically inside...ie; valve plunger return spring rubbing against spring retainer plate, lowering preload pressure.. ...and the solenoid armature extension limit spring wafer with bad wear/broken off petals... ...and if there's ever been any metal flying about, damage to the valve plunger end itself... ...the stuff one never really sees, unless you go the whole 10yards trying to answer the question "why is my line pressure screwy, but TCU isn't flagging any EPC solenoid fault?"...and carefully dissect the solenoid. Worst (and most probable) scenario is when the plate spring petals break off, they get held by the magnetic flux, get mashed up by the armature into little bits, which end up in the space between the armature & shading core bore, and things get stuck or randomly jam up, and your line pressure goes flat and doesn't change...and the TCU never sees it, as it doesn't actively monitor LP... ..then it gets into insidious land, if you end up with lower than expected line pressure...lets say high clutch..and the lower pressure causes it to slip ~ when I say 'slip', think say 2000rpm on the drive plates, and 1800rpm on the driven plates, because the slip is making them under-rotate by 200rpm ; you get all the usual nasties like heat and band/clutch wear, but even if it's only 20rpm slip the same thing happens...and... you'll hardly ever pick this up driving the thing with the torque converter active as it effectively masks these sorts of slippages that are line pressure related ...(the newer TCUs can detect clutch slip rate)...just  FYI as it were...  
    • There's nothing that some paddle pop sticks and extra cable ties can't fix.
    • Hey guys, so Golebys has good prices on Bosch injectors, and also sell an adaptor to go from 1/2 length injector to standard with the Nissan 10.5mm top seal.  Does anyone know if that adaptor is to suit the 14mm or 11mm injector tops?  And re. The bottom seal, to suit my standard RB20 intake, would I be right in saying I can just slip the 14mm square section O ring over the bottom of the new injector and done? Thanks in advance guy, Cheers, Rowdy
    • F my life. I was changing the oil on my R32 GTR today as usual and ran into a bit of a snag. I drained the oil out and was getting ready to finish the job by tightening the drain plug, however The stupid magnetic oil drain plug snapped in half, right at the magnet part. After about an hour of trying to remove it, I used a drill bit, which unfortunately pushed the magnet all the way into the pan, and just leaving the hollow threaded part of the bolt remaining. I was able to remove the hollow portion of the bolt from the oil pan with some pliers but the magnet is still in there.  So, the question is, should I drop the oil pan to get the magnet piece out, or is it okay to leave it in there? I really dont want to drop the pan, i'm about to go nuts.  PSA: Do NOT buy a BLOX magnetic drain plug. This is the one i had.    https://bloxracing.com/products/magnetic-oil-drain-plug-m12x1-25mm?variant=37131252859052&country=US&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw47i_BhBTEiwAaJfPpgti1D2JwO7TDuMpXuqeQPCuIQSAfwxpWQH5rF9MD7sm5SCZDWLR_RoC_YoQAvD_BwE    
×
×
  • Create New...