Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

RB 26/30 built by ProEngines. 9:1 compression, Cometic head gasket, Supertech pistons, Oil restrictor, ARP Head Studs, ARP Main studs, Argo rods, ACL race bearings, Crank collar, Balanced, Crank grub screwed, Upgraded valve springs, os intake valves, mild porting, RIPS sump adapter, oil pickup and baffled extended sump, Nitto oil pump, new -5 turbos genuine Garret with fabricated support bracing, ported exhaust manifolds, Nitto hot and cold side gaskets, ATI balancer, Twin turbo divider plate, ceramic coated turbo heat shields, braided and insulated oil and water turbo lines, oil return from head to sump, , Nismo injectors, extra PS pulley fitted by CRD, CRD spec cams ground for 26/30, Tomei cam wheels

PMC plumb back catch can

Splitfires

New coil pack loom

New CAS

044 in tank pump with 12V direct feed

Reconditioned front diff

Hicas lines, solenoid etc removed

PMC Hicas locking bar

Reconditioned brake booster

Trust long waste gate dump pipes modified by RIPS to suit RB26/30, ceramic coated and wrapped

HKS Super Drager Exhaust with stainless cat

Modified stock airbox

Just Jap 100mm FMIC

Just Jap ally radiator

Koni revalved shocks with King springs

Bilstein ‘Sydneykid’ spec shocks

Bilstein PSS9 shocks and springs

Nismo front strut bar with MC stopper and Cusco twin front strut bar

HKS Kansai rear strut bar

New shock rubbers

Whiteline uprated front and rear roll bars

Reconditioned gearbox

Jim Berry Full Monty clutch with organic pressure plate

Resprayed with new body seals, weather strips, rear side glass and windscreen

Momo wheel

Recaro Evo 6.5 seats

S15 Seats (minor modifications to suit)

Alcantara retrimmed headlining

New Nissan OEM trim parts

Sony head unit, splits and upgraded door speakers

Alcantara dash

VDO console gauges

320k/hr speedo

Brembo front brakes, DBA discs, Project Mu Type NS front pads

Brembo rear callipers supplied not fitted

Volk TE37 17x9 +12 offset no damage but could do with a respray

Nismo LMGT2 17x9 +12 offset wheels

Vipec V44 plug in

Nistune board

Trust oil cooler brand new in box

Engine bay main loom brand new in box

All recent work by CRD

Rustproofed

Tuned by CRD 375 awkw @ 23 psi

Fully engineered in NSW and registered as a 26/30

Lots of spares including steering wheels (OEM, Nardi), dashboards, interior parts, rear ¼ windows, window trims, OEM gearknob, Nismo 3” exhaust.

I’ve owned this car for 12 years after buying it from an importer who intended to keep it for himself. He ended up spending more time in Japan than he intended and decided to sell it. Initially my daily driver for 3 years and 50k faultless km. Never tracked. As you can see it’s had significant money and effort spent on it over time to make it fast and reliable. Effort required to make the 3l bottom end fit properly was significant as it's not a drop-in proposition in a GTR, but the result was excellent. When the stroker motor went in it became a fair weather/ weekend car. The price is high but the quality is there and the value of the spares is significant, particularly the suspension / loom / oil cooler and rims. You simply couldn’t build this for anywhere near the asking price. Jim at CRD called it ‘as good a street car as you’d ever want’. Everyone who's been allowed to work on this car has commented on how straight it is.

$34k firm or consider trade for low km well maintained late S3 R8 Clubsport only. Located just north of Canberra in NSW. Pics to follow.

This car at this price isn’t for everyone and I’m no hurry to sell so please no low ballers, timewasters or tyre kickers thanks. Receipts for most work. Don’t really want to part company with it after all the development work I’ve put into it but I just don’t use it anymore. Please PM me if you’re genuine, interested and have assured funds.

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 years later...
6 hours ago, jaysevu said:

did you manage to get some pictures?

Second that.

A friend is looking for a R32 GTR. Photos will help.

Cheers!

Interested in Photos, has anything changed or been added from the modlist and is there a price adjustment seeing as it was written in 2014

  • 10 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Yes this car does exist and it is a work of art! Extremely well put together and a solid car, which will be cared for and pampered during my ownership.
Thank you Scooby32, was a pleasure dealing with you and I will keep in touch.
Car is now sold [emoji16]

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...