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Just after some opimions to get the best bang for my bucks. I have a 95 R33 GTSt running the standard RB25 with the following bolt on mods

Full 3inch N1 exhaust w/ high flow cat

HKS intercooler

500hp fuel pump

PowerFC

Apexi AVCR

pod filter w/ heat shield

HKS BOV

fuel regulator

I will be fitting HKS cam gears soon.

I have wider AVS model 6 rims w/ yokohama rubber all the way round for traction and next i plan to do injectors and turbo and get the whole thing tuned but am not sure how to go.

Any opinions on how to get the best performance for my money when buying injectors and a turbo set up??

I want something that will achieve around the 260+rwkw mark but don't really wanna spend a heap of cash doing it if i can help it.

Cheers in advance. :D

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I would Recommend a HKS GT2530 or GT2540. Very well turbo. Got a GT2540 on my ride, just need to get a boost controller to push over 300Kw so its very powerful. BY the way your HKS SSQV will stall your angine once you install a new turbo, I recommend going back to the Plumb Back BOV.

I want something that will achieve around the 260+rwkw mark but don't really wanna spend a heap of cash doing it if i can help it.
Seems as though the ~260rwkw mark is about what most people want over the past month. Their have been about 5 similar threads to this 1 in the past 2-3wks so you may want to spend an hour doing a search and reading up.

Looks like you will be up for about ~$4.2k to be on road with ~260rwkw.

I would Recommend a HKS GT2530 or GT2540. Very well turbo. Got a GT2540 on my ride, just need to get a boost controller to push over 300Kw so its very powerful. BY the way your HKS SSQV will stall your angine once you install a new turbo, I recommend going back to the Plumb Back BOV.

Will be struggling to make that power with these turbo's on pump gas.

have a look at the new release from Garrett.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=43864

I want something that will achieve around the 260+rwkw mark but don't really wanna spend a heap of cash doing it if i can help it.:

Do you care about the average power and the response? Or is 260 rwkw max power all that matters?

Sydneykid,

i do care about responce alot and i prefer a car that will get off the line well and not lag but i still want something that will make POWER. I have though about the HKS2530 but i will look into it more before i make my choice. I still need injectors also.

Cheers all and Benm i will do a search as you advised.

i do care about responce alot and i prefer a car that will get off the line well and not lag but i still want something that will make POWER.

OK SouthernR33, that's the answer I needed, otherwise I am guessing as to what set up you want. There are litteraly 20 different ways to get 260 rwkw max power, but if you want top response as well then the choices are a lot less.

We have an R34 GTT that makes 265 rwkw with the following;

GTR fuel pump (SAU forum)

3.5" exhaust ((from Performance Metalcraft)

HKS POD with heat shielding and large CAI (SAU forum and self made)

R33 GTR standard intercooler (SAU forum)

RB25DET turbo with ball bearing hi flow (by GCG)

Split dump and engine pipe combo (from Performance Metalcraft)

Hi flow cat (SAU forum)

Power FC with boost control kit (Nengun)

Tomei Poncams 256 @ 9.2 mm (Nengun)

Nismo fuel pressure regulator (Nengun)

Tomei Injectors (Nengun)

None of the above is any use unless you can get the power down, so;

OS Giken twin plate clutch (SAU forum)

Plus it has to be reliable;

Oil cooler and remote filter (Earls)

It has more power EVERYWHERE than standard, so it has awesome average power. It gets driven everyday, does some circuit work and the odd drag strip (11.9@120 mph) and has been for almost 2 years.

Hope that helps :cheers:

I would recomend one of the new HKS GT-RS turbos, all the reports and tests i have heard are very impressive. they flow more than a 2540 but have the response of a 2530.

i have a 2530 on my RB20 and that makes 225rwkw so a GT-RS would easily make 260rwkw on a 2.5L with awesome response.

Has anyone on here got this turbo? cause i want one!

Well im not sure, the same way that you normally work out your "average power" formula. Don't you normally use 3000-7000rpm or something?

Hi Benm, I generally use a spread of rpm that corresponds to the maximum rpm drop of upchanges (1st to 2nd is usually the worst). So that would be 4,000 rpm to 7,000 rpm in this case. I posted the numbers a while ago in another thread, I don't have the dyno sheet with me but, I think this is them..............

7,000 -------- 246

6,500 -------- 266

6,000 -------- 261

5,500 -------- 252

5,000 -------- 231

4,500 -------- 202

4,000 -------- 149

Average -------- 229

Did that answer your question OK? :(

Did that answer your question OK? :cheers:
Yup thanks. Just worked mine out:

4000 = 120

4500 = 130

5000 = 155

5500 = 180

6000 = 185

6500 = 184

7000 = 178

= 162rwkw (or 152rwkw using 3-7k rpm)

4000-5000rpm is what I need to work on (replace std ecu with a pfc should fix this).

Edit: Now that I look at those figures im guessing i'd be best off short-shifting at 6000rpm when drag racing instead of ~6,800rpm as im getting no extra power, the engine is just reving out, correct?

Yup thanks. Just worked mine out:

4000 = 120

4500 = 130

5000 = 155

5500 = 180

6000 = 185

6500 = 184

7000 = 178

= 162rwkw (or 152rwkw using 3-7k rpm)

4000-5000rpm is what I need to work on (replace std ecu with a pfc should fix this).

Edit: Now that I look at those figures im guessing i'd be best off short-shifting at 6000rpm when drag racing instead of ~6,800rpm as im getting no extra power, the engine is just reving out, correct?

Depends how many RPM you lose on the gearchange.

You may not get any extra power over your peak, but you MAY get the engine to the point where the next change gets you to a higher power output.

For example, if you lost 2000rpm on a change, then shifting at 6000rpm would get you to 4000rpm and down from 185 to 120rwkw, but shifting at 7000rpm would get you from 178rwkw down to 5000rpm and 155rwkw.

Hi Benm, I generally use a spread of rpm that corresponds to the maximum rpm drop of upchanges (1st to 2nd is usually the worst).  So that would be 4,000 rpm to 7,000 rpm in this case.  I posted the numbers a while ago in another thread, I don't have the dyno sheet with me but, I think this is them..............

7,000   --------  246

6,500   --------  266

6,000   --------  261

5,500   --------  252

5,000   --------  231

4,500   --------  202

4,000   --------  149

 

Average  --------  229

Did that answer your question OK? :rofl:

Power really drops off at 7000rpm, would that be caused by cam duration?

11.9 is fANTASTIC, was that on slicks?

Power really drops off at 7000rpm, would that be caused by cam duration?

11.9 is fANTASTIC, was that on slicks?

Hi BOOSTD, it still has the standard exhaust manifold. On one of our other engines we use a GTSR exhaust manifold (low/rear mount turbo) and it holds good power to ~8,000 rpm. So I think that could be it. I can get a little more top end out of it by retarding the exhaust camshaft timing, but the average power is lower. So I removed the adj pulley. Maybe a set of 264's would boost the top end, but then I would loose the VVT. Honestly, it is so nice to drive, I really don't want to change anything. :rofl:

The 11.9 was on Mickey Thompson ET's, I have tried Nittos and it was only a couple of tenths slower. I might give the new Goodyear Radials a go next time, the guys are getting goods results from them. :aroused:

Honestly MIC33R, I have no idea what the specs are, it is an off the shelf GCG RB25DET ball bearing hi flow. If I had to guess it feels like no bigger than a 0.64 A/R Turbine Housing with around a 76 trim turbine in it. The Compressor Housing looked to around 0.70 A/R with maybe a 48 trim compressor. But all that is really guess work, I have deliberately never measured one. :)

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