Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

have decided to put my car for sale. I have owned the car since 2009, and had another Soarer prior to this. The car is in excellent condition inside and out, and rarely driven but stays in the garage. When driven it sounds excellent and handles like it is on rails


I have logs of everything I have done to the car since I have bought it. There is a build thread on JDMST if you are interested.


The car has been tuned to 230rwkw, but has more potential as I have recently replaced the coilpacks, 440c injectors and fuel pump. It has the potential to make 250rwkw without a problem.


A recent compression test revealed 180 on all cylinders. Wet compression was 1: 215 2: 210 3: 215 4: 210 5: 210 6: 215


Body Respray in 202 Toyota black (same colour as stock) Fujin front lip, with late model front bar Autocouture side skirts Autocouture rear bar Origin roof spoiler Clear headlights Vertex clear sidemarkers Late model foglights Late model tailights LED turn signals, brake signals, interior lighting. All guards rolled


Engine/Mechanical R154 stock manual Stock airbox and panel filter modified with 6inch intake to area under headlight. FMIC sprayed black. Fits well and will not move in an accident. Eboost 2 Turbo timer Custom turbo back exhaust done by Hakan at Performance Exhaust Northmead, ending in a pair of Blitz Nur Spec mufflers. New Exedy HD clutch. New coil packs Bosch 040 fuel pump Supra 440c injectors Mines ECU


Suspension GAB coilovers rear JIC magic coilovers front New front LCA bushes (rubber, Vlamos). Superpro rear UCA bushes. Cusco front strut bar Torsen LSD LS400 4 Pot front brakes Supra 2 Pot rear brakes HEL SS brake lines


Wheels Will be sold with R32GTR Vspec 2 rims with Dunlop Direzza tyres. 80-90% tread. OR Work Meister 19 inch. New RE001 Front, 70% AD08 Rear


Interior Black interior Recaro SRZero front seats (pair) Floor mats Smaller Toyota steering wheel. Fire extinguisher JVC din stereo Audio - unsure on this but it has a Kicker Sub, tweeters etc and an amp.


Meisters


1479535_10151884509289527_261523735_n.jp



BBS dscf00282i.jpg



R32 GTR VspecII rims


277834_10150971794334527_1198746764_o.jp


Interior


417157_10150588081119527_586915125_n.jpg




408130_10150588081024527_1462494705_n.jp


I am in NO RUSH to sell. I will only reply to genuine expressions of interest. $14000 with MEISTERS (yes I know it's high, but you will not find another Soarer in this condition)


The car sits in the garage and does not get driven. Serviced every 6 months, driven or not.


PM me if you are interested or have any questions.



Thanks,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/442760-1994-toyota-soarer-jzz30/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bump on this to not make another post, had a ‘head drain’ leak on me and have the engine out as we speak. Planning on just putting a new freeze plug back in , plug the tapped holes and just be done with that headache.    Now I still want to relieve pressure to allow oil to pass down the blocks returns easier. I’ve seen catch cans with multiple vents help folks with this issue on this forum.  I’m wanting to make my own. I have some pictures here of my setup if anyone can help how I should plumb and design the catch can I would deeply appreciate it !   rb25 Oil upgrades: 1.0mm restrictor n1 pump/billet gears extended crank collar  extended sump with trap doors/w welded fitting    
    • The Frenchy's kit is the way to go forward. A modern compressor that weighs about 1/2 as much, is at least twice as efficient, and will do a good job on R134a. And of course the kit has everything else you need to connect it up and have it work properly.
    • Hey all , I am in the process of having the AC system in my r32 GTST converted from r12 to r134a and I’m being told my compressor has gone bad and I will need a new one. I was wondering if anybody has any suggestions for what is the best route to go aside from dropping $1500 on a new oem one? I did see that Frenchy’s performance garage offers a kit to mount a Toyota compressor, has anybody actually used this kit on their car? Or is there anywhere I could purchase just a clutch? Any help is appreciated.
    • Well, your RB20 ECU loom won't have wires for the boost solenoid, that boost sensor, and possibly one or two other things. There could be differences in seemingly random things like the charcoal canister purge solenoid, because the 25DET has to handle boost in the vacuum system and the 20DE does not. I don't know - I haven't looked. It is very likely that all the most important things are same-same, being the main sensors like AFM, CAS, etc, and the injectors and ignition. Not that you'll need the AFM for the Haltech anyway. I would suggest that you would seriously want to sit down with the pinouts for both ECUs and just go through them and highlight green what is the same, orange what is different/missing, and make a plan from there. It's not going to be difficult. It will either be the same or need to be fixed.
    • yeaaa that's why I haven't done any wiring to the stock ecu harness because I have the haltech, but then that leads me to the other question of "is the pnp harness really plug and play?" or would I have to still switch some pins/wires over because the pnp is for the rb25det neo harness, and not for the rb20de neo harness. was really hoping to find something to spoon feed me since so many people have done rb20neo + t conversions, but man this is rough.
×
×
  • Create New...