Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

FOR SALE:

1999 R34 GTT 5 Speed manual Coupe. Rego till Nov 2014, has 90XXXkm on odometer. Pearl black GV1 + 3M DINOC Carbon fibre pattern wrapped bonnet.

I am the second owner since it was imported into Australia in 2010. I purchased this late 2012, and so have had it for 1.5 years. Absolutely love it to bits, and if you see the little details on this car you’ll understand. Always bought best parts possible. Interior is in great condition, there is some scratching on the arm rest console, but the centre console and dash is in great condition – so is trim on the doors etc. All electronics work perfectly fine. Still have original Nissan keys. No log books though. I have receipts of work done and parts bought for the car. A lot of stuff sourced from Japan directly. Never been hassled by police.

Click here for more pictures: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/iysjc4wi2yhtqmq/QAjyRucO7K

post-99360-0-29499200-1399346124_thumb.jpg

Mods:

Bilstein shocks + King springs (as recommended by many forum members), is very comfortable and a great balance between stiffness and comfort. Is also lowered (circlip adjustments)

Cusco sway bars front + rear

URAS front tie rods

URAS castor rods

Replaces HICAS tie rods with brand new OEM Nissan arms

HICAS lock bar

Whiteline bushes installed (forgot which ones but look underneath the car and you’ll see them)

Custom-made (by me) 192 LED reverse lights

Has a Blitz BOV (on car since Japan)

Blitz pod filter (stainless steel mesh) + Perspex ‘box’ handmade(by me)

Full Kakimoto exhaust ending with Kakimoto cannon (on car from Japan)

Nismo single plate coppermix clutch + flywheel + braided clutch line

Immobiliser, alarm, central locking installed from compliance (AUS standards)

Interior:

Pioneer head unit (very basic, has CD, AUX, USB/MP3) no Bluetooth – but also have a Bluetooth-enabled head unit if you want it (will replace)

Replaced steering wheel with woodgrain OEM Nissan item (from Yahoo JP, listed as coming from another R34)

GTR VSpecII metal pedals direct from Nissan

Nismo gear knob

18% Tint (actually not sure on percentage)

Bonnet gas struts (from NYTSKY’s groupbuy) – carbon fiber, look and work awesome

GARAX HID bulbs

I think there are aftermarket speakers in the car but not sure who put them in

Exterior:

3M DINOC carbon fiber wrap on bonnet (Done at an SAU event in 2013)

Nismo LMGT4s 17 x 7.5/8.5 (+35 offset each…I think) in original bronze, they do have rash from previous owner in Japan though. Put on fresh new NISMO stickers on last year.

Tyres are Nitto INVO, had them on since early 2013 and have driven less than 5000km since

Altia body kit from factory

SAU Sticker on rear quarter window (hahaha)

Nismo smoked side indicators

Things that may need attention:

Paint is fading on the top, seems to be various rainspots of fading too – I think from acid rain in Japan, because also when I had the car there was buildup on all windows which I removed with a product (still have it, forgot name now). Couple of dings on the sides from people opening doors (WHY ARE PEOPLE SO STUPID). Previous owner bumped the rear left, so there’s a chip and bit of panel gap. Gearbox chatter accelerating in 4th gear at 60-65km/h, gone after that – have a written report from JLM that it’s consistent with age of gearbox. Doesn’t affect driving at all. There are a 3 cigarette burns in the seat, either from previous owner or owner in Japan, not me as I don’t smoke (and you can tell if you sit inside the car)

------------------------------------------------

No finance on it. Always serviced on time, have changed spark plugs, oil, gearbox, diff oil, recently. Is a great car to drive, comfortable, stock power but is plenty for street driving really. Plenty of boot space. Can fit 5 people inside (has 3 seatbelts in the back). I’m looking to move onto motorbikes so am making the decision to let this go. Still has flare from Japan!!!! Note: does not come with all the trinkets/accessories in the car - and as you can see I have added a few woodgrain accessories, will remove and/or replace with stock parts upon sale.

Asking price is $16500 or Swaps + cash my way for a motorbike (must be LAMS approved), DON’T OFFER ANOTHER CAR

Small mods can be parted out (depending on item) just ask me in the thread. Not willing to part out any of the suspension bits (which are most of the proper mods anyway). If you want the car without some mods contact me and we’ll work something out.

PM or call/message 0422 eight three nine 8 8 8. Don’t waste my time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/442765-fs-1999-r34-gtt-nswsydney/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Bump, just met another GTT owner on the weekend who also has the same nismo clutch as me. They also have the same sounds and they told me it's the nismo clutch, not the gearbox. So, that leaves the paint as the only bad point of this car.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bump on this to not make another post, had a ‘head drain’ leak on me and have the engine out as we speak. Planning on just putting a new freeze plug back in , plug the tapped holes and just be done with that headache.    Now I still want to relieve pressure to allow oil to pass down the blocks returns easier. I’ve seen catch cans with multiple vents help folks with this issue on this forum.  I’m wanting to make my own. I have some pictures here of my setup if anyone can help how I should plumb and design the catch can I would deeply appreciate it !   rb25 Oil upgrades: 1.0mm restrictor n1 pump/billet gears extended crank collar  extended sump with trap doors/w welded fitting    
    • The Frenchy's kit is the way to go forward. A modern compressor that weighs about 1/2 as much, is at least twice as efficient, and will do a good job on R134a. And of course the kit has everything else you need to connect it up and have it work properly.
    • Hey all , I am in the process of having the AC system in my r32 GTST converted from r12 to r134a and I’m being told my compressor has gone bad and I will need a new one. I was wondering if anybody has any suggestions for what is the best route to go aside from dropping $1500 on a new oem one? I did see that Frenchy’s performance garage offers a kit to mount a Toyota compressor, has anybody actually used this kit on their car? Or is there anywhere I could purchase just a clutch? Any help is appreciated.
    • Well, your RB20 ECU loom won't have wires for the boost solenoid, that boost sensor, and possibly one or two other things. There could be differences in seemingly random things like the charcoal canister purge solenoid, because the 25DET has to handle boost in the vacuum system and the 20DE does not. I don't know - I haven't looked. It is very likely that all the most important things are same-same, being the main sensors like AFM, CAS, etc, and the injectors and ignition. Not that you'll need the AFM for the Haltech anyway. I would suggest that you would seriously want to sit down with the pinouts for both ECUs and just go through them and highlight green what is the same, orange what is different/missing, and make a plan from there. It's not going to be difficult. It will either be the same or need to be fixed.
    • yeaaa that's why I haven't done any wiring to the stock ecu harness because I have the haltech, but then that leads me to the other question of "is the pnp harness really plug and play?" or would I have to still switch some pins/wires over because the pnp is for the rb25det neo harness, and not for the rb20de neo harness. was really hoping to find something to spoon feed me since so many people have done rb20neo + t conversions, but man this is rough.
×
×
  • Create New...