Advice On Fixing A Few R32 Issues

[ekez]

Hi everyone,

I am new to the forum here as i have recently purchased my first Nissan. It was a rolling R32 4 door shell and in the last couple weeks i dropped a rb20, 5speed, and r200 into it and just working out the final kinks before it hits the road. If anyone has any ideas it would be great because i have been stuck on some of these for a while now.

The first issue is that occasionally when turning right, all the electrical power is cut to the car and it stalls and gets itself going again. This is what i have done so far to try and find the issue.

1) Checked the loom in the wheel archs, no damage to them and the car is factory height.

2) Pulled the steering coloum apart and checked/jiggled anything i could find.

3) Disconnected the power steering

4) Made sure the battery terminals are good, and the battery clamped down.

5) wiggled any electical connection i could find, and nothing.

A few things to note are;

The car has had the rear subframe swapped and does not run a hicas system. The ecu has been disconnected and im running a r33 P/S pump.

The car has an alarm installed which is working 100% but i have thought maybe it is somehow cutting ignition.

The car seems to be using a ton of fuel and maybe i have a fuel pump issue and when turning right the fuel is sloshing away from the pickup.

The second issue i have is a vacume leak near the rear of the intake manifold, i can hear it on idle and sprayed some soapy water today and although i couldnt see it still i could hear the note change. I have recently replaced the IACV so i dont think that is it, but i just cant find the culprit.

The thrid issue i have is if i plug in the AAC the idle jumps up to ~1300rpm and i cant get it down, if i unplug it the car idles great and drives fine builds boost no problems but i would still like to find out why it is happening and fix it.

I have also installed a R33 complete airconditioning system and need to wire it up, if anyone has a wiring diagram that would be great.

Thanks,

Zeke

[Missileman]

Hmmm... insure with justcar, disconnect alarm, and leave out front on moonless nights.

[mistermeena]

I think the aac valve has an idle screw on it

check this thread:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110431-diy-aac-valve-cleaning-idle-reset/

[rekoyl116]

doubt the stalling thing is the alarm man, pretty sure if ignition was cutoff itd just stall completely.
my bet would be a fuel issue, does it cut out when u have a full tank of fuel?

[rekoyl116]

also the high idle is probably the vacuum leak.
fully close ur idle screw, if it still idles high then its probs the vac leak.
do the revs drop when it warms up?

[ekez]

With the the aac unplugged i can control the revs perfect via the idle screw and its perfect, car has a little miss on idle but comes good once the revs build which i beleive is the vacume leak. As soon as the aac is plugged in the idle screw does not give enough adjustment to bring it down.

I put $40 fuel in yesterday and took it for a drive, still cuts out. All the electrics cut in and out and the engine stalls in within a second and its back and keeps driving. Its really got me stumped as it doesn't do it sometimes. But when it does if i were turning past on coming traffic i would probaly die.

Even with the car warmed up the aac still shoots the revs up to 1300rpm, unplug it and i its close to perfect.

[jeffworld2]

The vaccum leak could be raising the idle but assuming that is fixed:

you might need to adjust the idle screw again with the aac connected, if the throttles are open and the aac is open you will have too much air in. Then you should check the tps is adjusted correctly as well while you are there as if it was adjusted for the screws position the throttle plates will be closed when set up with aac.

Basically if you opened up the throttles enough to idle at 1000rpm instead of 500 (or not at all) then the screw is raising it up 300-500rpm. This is exactly what the aac would have done, hence it idles 300 above again. It would also be good to do an ecu reset after as it would have been spitting out messages to the aac to fully open

If it idles fine without aac then leave it off.

[ekez]

Thanks Jeff,

I haven't been able to find the vaccum leak as yet i can hear it but soapy water and throttle cleaner hasn't helped pin point it. My friend who is a mechanic told me a trick he uses which is with the engine off blow a mouth full of tobacco smoke through the brake booster vaccum hose and the smoke will rise where the leak is. Looking forward to giving that a try and hopefully fixing it.

Is resetting the ecu as simple as disconnecting the battery overnight?

[ekez]

Hey guys just updating for future peoples ventures.

The turning right issue was a faulty body earth issue, once i ran a seperate earth from the battery to the body all was resolved.

I do still have a vacume leak and no power steering, but slowly getting the car fixed up.

[niZmO_Man]

Surprise surprise, another R32 issue that was wiring/earthing related.

[liss]

Hey Zeek

We had a huge problem with out AAC till we pulled it off and cleaned it

There was a thread on here that was step by step and great !

it was full of carbon and the screw was gunked up and wouldnt turn even

came up beautiful with some carby cleaner

and the idle was so much better after the clean

We are at a similar stage as you trying to put an R32 coupe back together

!8 months later and

nearlt there

[ekez]

Hi Allissa,

Thanks for the reply,

I did give it a try but it still didnt fix my idle. I found if i unplugged it and adjusted the idle manually its not to bad.

I have put an r33 aircon system in as i wanted it to be good for taking the kids on car cruises. i havnt wired it in yet but that may be causing my issue. I took the car out drifting last week at a private track day and the driveline pulled up great.

I have a lot more to do on the car, but its good to drive it for a while.

Thanks,

Zeke