Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, with minimal tools, is there a way to thread the Haltech IAT sensor at the OEM location or somewhere else easy ?

I bought this sensor and going for a tune with the Haltech ecu this week-end. However, I still havent figured if I will be able to use my Haltech sensor or not.

thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/442832-haltech-iat-vs-oem-iat-rb26/
Share on other sites

Might be off topic, but what's wrong with the stock IAT? it already is connected on the harness and goes to the ECU, I'm sure the Haltech reads it.. unless you're not running a Plug In one.

Might be off topic, but what's wrong with the stock IAT? it already is connected on the harness and goes to the ECU, I'm sure the Haltech reads it.. unless you're not running a Plug In one.

There's plenty wrong with it. It is a big heavy lump - essentially the same as the coolant sensor. It is seriously affected by the temperature of the plenum itself (rather than the air flowing through it). The Nissan ECU doesn't really use it for the same reasons that other ECUs use IAT sensors. If you're MAP sensing then you have to measure IAT in order to get the density calculation right. But the Nissan ECU was using a MAF, so it had no need to measure IAT. The general concensus is that the Nissan ECU only uses the air temp for taking action in case of severe high temperature.

There's plenty wrong with it. It is a big heavy lump - essentially the same as the coolant sensor. It is seriously affected by the temperature of the plenum itself (rather than the air flowing through it). The Nissan ECU doesn't really use it for the same reasons that other ECUs use IAT sensors. If you're MAP sensing then you have to measure IAT in order to get the density calculation right. But the Nissan ECU was using a MAF, so it had no need to measure IAT. The general concensus is that the Nissan ECU only uses the air temp for taking action in case of severe high temperature.

Correct, it's junk... I use mine but I really should get off my ass and install a adequate high speed air temp sensor

There's plenty wrong with it. It is a big heavy lump - essentially the same as the coolant sensor. It is seriously affected by the temperature of the plenum itself (rather than the air flowing through it). The Nissan ECU doesn't really use it for the same reasons that other ECUs use IAT sensors. If you're MAP sensing then you have to measure IAT in order to get the density calculation right. But the Nissan ECU was using a MAF, so it had no need to measure IAT. The general concensus is that the Nissan ECU only uses the air temp for taking action in case of severe high temperature.

makes sense, I never thought of it that way :)

I've got mine welded to my cross over Plazmaman pipe before the TB (I deleted the the fugly stock RB25DET cross over pipe)

  • 6 years later...

Question. 

Would you need to have the car retuned if using a plug n play fast air temp sensor? 

Like the below?

https://www.dahtoneracing.com/online-store/Dahtone-Racing-RB26-plug-and-play-fast-response-IAT-sensor-p200603263

Having a Haltech CAN gauge vs MFD intercooler sensors on the 34R, i notice an approx 25-30 degree difference between the IAT sensor vs Intercooler sensor (Intercooler reads 30 odd degrees vs 50-60Deg on the IAT)

Since the Haltech has been tuned to drop timing etc on air temp, i'm certainly feeling a drop in power due to heat soak of the IAT. 

 

Edited by djvoodoo
On 28/12/2020 at 8:13 AM, djvoodoo said:

Would you need to have the car retuned if using a plug n play fast air temp sensor? 

Not at all, just get a GM or Haltech sensor. Go into your ECU, hit F4 then select the IAT sensor, select the correct scaling (haltech has a bunch of calibration files ready to go), save, and done!

 

(also, I would just cut the plug and re-terminate instead of using an adaptor which over time may corrode, snap, etc. and increase resistance over time)

  • 3 years later...
48 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Well, you'd have to. The non-26 RBs do not have IAT sensors anywhere else that you could replace if you wanted to.

Do you have to, though? That sounds quite messy to me. Surely it would be easier to place it a bit further down. And drill into easily replaced piping instead. See the old replies above as well.

FWIW the Blitz intercooler kit on my RB25 has a nipple on the elbow of the pipe going into the plenum. No need for drilling. Looks vaguely like this:

icse_kit.thumb.jpg.8b812b1f0af04400a6217b480d96ede2.jpg

Well, it is trivial to drill a hole and tap a thread into the thick cast alloy of the cross pipe. It is not possible to drill and tap/screw a fitting into thinwall steel or alloy pipe. You need to weld something on. So, yeah, if I was doing it, I would throw it in that pipe somewhere.

As to that Blitz kit's already welded in fitting....well, that's what it's there for, and that's essentially the same place, give or take.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...