Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

GTTR34 is selling some BBS rims (17x8, 17x9) for a good price. I'm just wondering if they'd fit on my GTS-t without modification to the body?

My car's currently got the stock rims and is lowered 320 front and 335 rear (yeah it's stupidly low), will they fit if I got some different springs etc...?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44296-how-wide-can-i-go-r32-gts-t/
Share on other sites

With a front ride height of 315mm (...well it looked cool that low :Oops: ) i was able to fit 17 x 8 +30s on the front, and with a rear ride height of 340mm able to fit the same size wheel again.

The rims had 235/45/17s on them and on the front upper control arm, there was evidence that the rubber had occassionally rubbed on the control arm.

It looked as though the rim was clearing everything and the wheel didnt stick out past the guard, actually looking at how the rim sat in the guard, it looked better fit then the usual 17 x 7 +30 i run on the front. So with a 225 or 215 tyre it would have fitted and cleared everything, but a slightly different offset would have even the 235 tyre clearign everything. :cheers:

As for the rear, i think a 17 x 9 would go.... chase down the offsets, you may get lucky ;)

17x8 + 36

17x9 + 35

makes no sense to me...

thanks guys for the input so far.

Going by my car, id say the fronts will need a spacer, (with 8s on the front i think an offset between 25-30 will work

And the rears will go close as well, perhaps an offset of around 28-30 would work best with 9" rims

I just bought a new set of rims for my car, they were off a GTR with 17 x 8 +35 all round. I dont like my chances being a great fit, but as i have4 had my car raised and they will be for trashing aorund tracks, im not really too concerened if they stick out a little...worst case if they rub susp ill use spacers

I've just fitted 17x8 + 30 with 215-45 on the front. The car has 315mm centre to guard on the front. Sits just inside the guard with no scrub. With the +36s on the front the rims should sit further in than mine would and so you could probably fit a wider tyre without hitting the guard or needing it lipped. You may have some clearance issues in board though on your suspension upper arms or springs.

I have trial fitted the rears without tyres and jacked them up to where they would normally sit. They are a 17x9 +35, same as what you are looking at. They sit just inside the guard and there is about 10mm clearance at the back of the rim to the hicas steering arm ball joint. The rear guards will definately need lipping before the wheels will fit without scrubbing.

Yep, r32 gtst.

Had a bit of a spirited drive last night. There is a bit of scrubbing of the plastic liner if you are cornering hard and hit a big bump but i can live with that. Doesn't help that i'm running a bit of castor too, i think it's 8 degrees.

i have 18X8.5 front and rear with 225/40 streached over them so they dont hit the guards, i dont know the offset, but my guards have not been rolled.

these things JUST fit without hitting anything.

Bbenny i am pretty sold on 18x7.5 rims do u think an extra inch makes a huge difference. i am planning on running 225/40's as well... i have the same car as you. is your suspension fairly hard (coilovers?), do you just have the right offset, small enough tyres or the combination of all three that lets u run 8.5 inches all round. thanks heaps...

mic

hey mic i would say its a combination of all 3, i do have stiff coilovers, but it wouldnt matter if i had sponges in there because the offset is perfect so nothing can touch.

I think the 7.5 will be sweet, because i still have to stretch the 225/40 over my rim to ensure it doesnt rub the guard, i could prob go a slightly wider tyre, but not much, so go the 7.5 with the 225 and it will be sweet.

maybe even consider 17" if you plan on track or drag, but 18" does look the best :(

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 10 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The hot exhaust light will come on not from just the cat being blocked, but it's just a temp sensor, and it's designed to warn you to not do things like park in long grass.   If you've been pushing the motor a bit, it can cause the light to come on.   Second if the cat is rattling, I'd suspect it's not blocked, but instead falling apart inside.   The easiest "fix" until you can get a cat put back in, is to unbolt your one, bash the rest of the insides out, and then bolt it back in.   For a daily driver/street car, I am in agreeance of put a cat in the car. If it were race car I wouldn't care if it were removed.
    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
×
×
  • Create New...