Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I used to build stupid cars (260z 2+2 with a rb26dett) (1600 with a 400kw sr20det). Everyone who knows the pain of building a car yourself, the money, sleepless nights, lack of life in general but its all worth it when you turn the key. But you know life rolls around and money issues are...well life? So the cars went and were replaced with a Magna (don't cringe) it was actually a nice car, and would pull away from most cars on the road. Two years down the track my urges took hold of me when I saw a 1999 Er34GtT.

My big issue is my left foot, followed by my right. I picked the car up after compliance and out of the driveway gutter to gutter down three lanes(onprivateproperty) aka parramatta road.

Fitted a 3" turbo back exhaust within a week of picking her up, Pod filter (still needs a cover) and grabbed a set of 19" 8.5 and 9.5 Nismo rims.

Have a set of DBA slotted rears to go on, but still deciding on the fronts, RDA slotted and dimpled have mixed reviews and DBA slotted and drilled have failed on me more than once. Shes going on the dyno this coming week sometime when DVS tuning has a moment spare.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/442983-rb25er-r34gttblessyou/
Share on other sites

Just get dba slotted, remeber to completely flush the fluid and use something decent, motul rbf as a suggestion.

Ditch the pod, no cover needed then

The intake is getting all hard piping so it will change anyway

So it has a tuneable ecu??

If not save the $80 power run

I just want a baseline run to compare once I'm finished
  • 1 month later...

Little update, electrical issues are starting to drive me crazy. When I lock my car the doors dont lock only the immob and alarm turn on, tcs light dims when indicating and other fun things eventually the battery died so I replaced it with a slightly larger one. This fixed all my dramas...no of cause not two days later it started like the battery was drained and the doors stopped locking again. The only aftermarket electrical items are a headunit to oem wiring, boost guage which is on acc, and a ice install in the boot which has been completely disconnected. And a mongoose alarm which was installed by a "professional". So ill have to borrow a dc clamp meter to find what is driving me crazy.

after some spirited driving I glazed the pads quite severely, the next day on the way to work I had to do an e stop because the nice lady in front slammed her brakes on and I just couldn't pull up, hit her doing less than 20ks but all the damage was done to my car, front bar and support bent, headlight brackets smashed and a kink in the bonnet.

Little update, electrical issues are starting to drive me crazy. When I lock my car the doors dont lock only the immob and alarm turn on, tcs light dims when indicating and other fun things eventually the battery died so I replaced it with a slightly larger one. This fixed all my dramas...no of cause not two days later it started like the battery was drained and the doors stopped locking again. The only aftermarket electrical items are a headunit to oem wiring, boost guage which is on acc, and a ice install in the boot which has been completely disconnected. And a mongoose alarm which was installed by a "professional". So ill have to borrow a dc clamp meter to find what is driving me crazy.

after some spirited driving I glazed the pads quite severely, the next day on the way to work I had to do an e stop because the nice lady in front slammed her brakes on and I just couldn't pull up, hit her doing less than 20ks but all the damage was done to my car, front bar and support bent, headlight brackets smashed and a kink in the bonnet.

Little update, electrical issues are starting to drive me crazy. When I lock my car the doors dont lock only the immob and alarm turn on, tcs light dims when indicating and other fun things eventually the battery died so I replaced it with a slightly larger one. This fixed all my dramas...no of cause not two days later it started like the battery was drained and the doors stopped locking again. The only aftermarket electrical items are a headunit to oem wiring, boost guage which is on acc, and a ice install in the boot which has been completely disconnected. And a mongoose alarm which was installed by a "professional". So ill have to borrow a dc clamp meter to find what is driving me crazy.

after some spirited driving I glazed the pads quite severely, the next day on the way to work I had to do an e stop because the nice lady in front slammed her brakes on and I just couldn't pull up, hit her doing less than 20ks but all the damage was done to my car, front bar and support bent, headlight brackets smashed and a kink in the bonnet.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I know mentally you're set on the ATS clutch but honestly I'm a big fan of the Nismo Super Coppermix Twin. It's much cheaper and in some ways I think it's a better design for a street/circuit car.
    • Just checked in first post and you should be able to bring it home November this year, right? I'm amazed you made it through four years of this. As hard as it feels now the rest will go by in a breeze in hindsight, I'm sure.
    • Realized I haven't been back here in a while. Still here, still alive, still waiting for the car.  I went back again the only time last year from Oct-Nov for R's Meeting and drove it around some more, including a few laps on Fuji Speedway(in the wet, sadly). The car still feels good, but have a couple small things to address. I've been getting more parts but have slowed down still, and most of the bigger purchases are now out of the way. I find myself getting impatient more and more when it comes to getting started on this project; it's quite hard for me not being able to really dive in and start making this car my own because it's halfway across the world. At times it doesn't even really feel like I own one of these. Haven't really been motivated or had the desire to document the last trip on here or social media for, well, reasons... but here's some pics...it's also still alive and well as you can see: I've narrowed down to the last large part purchases(anything over $2k) before the engine build to be: 1) Ohlins Road & Tracks 2) ATS Twin Carbon clutch 3) Endless BBK with some custom options and 4) Kansai Service carbon driveshaft I don't think the budget exists for all of these this year, but I'll try for one or two items I think. Though, every time I look at my spreadsheet I sigh, shake my head, and get depressed just that little bit more.  'til later.
    • It's a stunning location!  I've been to NZ twice but haven't made it to the North Island yet.  Definitely on the cards but the South Island is hard to tear yourself away from too... Looking forward to see what you can wring out of it once you can get it to hold together!  Be awesome to get a low 11 or even sneaking into the high 10's pass out of it.  That's a bloody quick car that most people will never experience in their life.  Enjoy!
    • Nominally yes but I’m not really at that stage yet. Outsourcing to Japan is also a relatively good deal at the moment because their currency has devalued much more against the USD.  You would assume this but a lot has changed from the pandemic. Mechanics are in short supply and demand for fixing old cars has gone up from the cost of new cars. 250-300 USD/hr is not an unusual shop labor rate in California and you’re paying that regardless of whether the guy is competent or not. Coworkers have been quoted 3000 USD for a water pump and thermostat at a dealer on an N54. Oil changes went from ~75 USD to 150 on fairly normal cars like Civics. The cost of the oil and filter hasn’t even kept up with inflation.
×
×
  • Create New...