Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It looks like it worked pretty much how I was expecting.

Even if the results were positive I would still not be convinced that these products work.

The most noise is made about improved fuel efficiency, however for a passenger car it is almost impossible to accurately determine whether there is any real improvement. There are just too many variables that cloud the results.

From their website I'd say these would be great for leaded cars, where you need to convert the fuel anyway.

Depending on the car that uses, norm unleaded fuel, say R32's and some early R33's, no R34's, you might see some ok results, but nothing super great.

The reason why is that some unleaded engines work slightly better with leaded fuels rather than unleaded as the can combust a bit better inside the engine.

Today's permium fuels would be much better than your lead fuels, so all along your've probbaly just being pumping leaded fuel through your car that's not always a great thing.

Also with these things being in-line you'd have a slowed fuel flow as well.

these things are things that interest me. I was doing a little bit of reading on them but i was still somewhat sceptical. Im in the usa so our gas isnt so great in comparison and i can only get 93 octane (ron/mon method) at the pumps here at best. you were saying though however that the knock level went down with the pfc... could you look into that a little bit more? if it can make the car have less knock (which essentially is a large percentage of what its supposed to do) then its a worthwhile thing to have in the states. there are also less expensive alternatives for only a couple hundred dollars US. Running a higher octane fuel doesnt really do anything for a car unless you change the tune. maybe thats the road you should go down for your testing and see what you can get out of the same fuel with and without the units...

Running a higher octane fuel doesnt really do anything for a car unless you change the tune. maybe thats the road you should go down for your testing and see what you can get out of the same fuel with and without the units...

Higher octane fuels have a much better combustion rate than lower octane fuels, in japan their cheap ass fuel is 98% octane (they have 110% octane fuel as preium fuel), so they have better fuel again, the best fuel here is 98% octane so it's still not great for some jap cars here but much better than a few years ago.

The knocking is your car trying to get a good combustion with the air/fuel you have, you shouldn't really run low grade fuel in top notch cars as too much kocking can stuff the cars engine.

Unleaded cars can run leaded fuel in them without any major problems, but you wouldn't want to do it all the time, as the leaded fuel won't effect the valve seals like unleaded fuel in a leaded/super engined car.

The lead in leaded/super fuel acts like a lube for the valves and stuff, unleaded cars don't need this but can still run and sometimes work better on leaded/super fuel as it'll lube the valves but if your running low octane fuel you won't have the right custion happening and you'll still get the knocking which isn't good.

WRX's will only run properly on preium unleaded fuels 98%+ fuels, otherwise the knocking will be very bad and can/will destory the engine in a short period of time.

If you look up the write backs on one of the websites you'll see that it's mostly small and family cars that are runing on nomr unleaded fuel and getting "good" results.

You won't see a WRX or Skyline or Supra etc but they require high grade octane fuel to run properly.

Higher octane fuels are more resistant to combustion, for this reason alone using it without a tune to suit, can result in a loss of power rather than a gain.

AFAIK, Jap cars are tuned to run on 98 RON fuels. Higher octane fuels are available from the pump, that's why you see a lot of cars with chipped ecu's. Even Power FC default maps have a very agressive ignition map, but some claim to run it without a tune.

Leaded fuel will destroy your catalytic converter and oxygen sensors.

Reduced detonation is a direct result from cleaner combustion chambers. Tin oxide has been used as a fuel additive for years. GI's were issued with powdered tin oxide during WWII so that suspect/contaminated fuel or whatever could be found in the field could be used to power vehicles and equipment. I would be very suspect of any such product that fits in-tank, as any filters or fine mesh will prevent delivery to the combustion chambers. Tin Oxide catalysts must be fitted after all fuel filters, & the fine mesh screens on side-feed injectors must be removed.

The biggest benefits in a tuned turbocharged engine ?

1. More ignition advance can be mapped, due to better combustion

2. Emmissions are greatly reduced - to the point where a catalytic converter is not required to meet emission laws under the Kyoto protocol.

Take some time to think about the above 2 points. I have used Fuelstar brand catalysts on 3 different vehicles and swear by them. I have no idea about other brands. As for info, the Fuelstar website has a bunch of info including test results from controlled environment testing.

To my way of thinking, it makes more sense to treat the cause (fuel) rather than cure the effect (exhaust gases).

BTW I am in no way associated with any manufacturer of tin cats or tuning shops etc.

Just expressing my experiences to add to the discussion.

Attached is an interesting piece from a respected Sydney tuner.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...