New Lifters Are Bled But Still Noisy?

[nicksamaniac]

Hi all, I've searched and searched but haven't found an answer that helps me!

BIt of leading info, built an rb30det (untouched bottom and pre vct untouched head), popped a head gasket (cheapy) pulled engine out and gave it a fresh set of rings/bearings and seals, got head reco'd (cut/grind valves and face head)

Put all back together and had noisy lifters,

I put up with it for a while as only a few, say 4 or 5 where ticking,

Finally had the cash to buy new ones and did all the stuff ya do to install them, soaked in oil for a week before hand, put em in and run them up to speed to run them in to the cams, used comp cams grease when installing,

All good but they still are noisy, and it's all of them! Knock is over 117 at idle on my pfc.

Took it for a drive, still no good.

Pulled my cam covers thinking maybe the valves where ground too short? And they had minimal to no collapse against the cams, but I can't even fit a 0.05mm feeler gauge under between cam and lifter on any.

So they are pumped out, plenty of oil to the head, as its full up everywhere and I didn't fit any restrictors in the block. All looks good but sounds terrible!

Please help as its doing my head in!!!! And can't go for a tune with all this head noise, (engine head not mine!)

Cheers.

[Dale FZ1]

Just dropping the new lifters into an oil bath probably wouldn't have done much.

Making sure they were collapsed before installation would be the way to approach things. Use soft jaws in a vice, and maybe a short bolt to get the load where you want it.

Could be that your oil spec is hindering efforts to have them self bleed.

And yes I read the comment that they are bled, but if they're tapping, they're not bled. HLA are zero clearance.

Edited May 17, 2014 by Dale FZ1

[Missileman]

what else makes a tapping noise????

pistons, injectors...

[nicksamaniac]

By design they should bleed during operation, my previous builds have done when started,

Massive noise on startup then silence 20-30 sec in.

I'm pulling them back out and going to see if the valve actually checks or if they are just pushing in and out.

If they're not I'll clean and install my old ones.

Edit. Today I drained my 10-30w and filled up with 20-50w but it didn't make much difference.

Edited May 17, 2014 by nicksamaniac

[Ben C34]

When I install new hydraulic lifters I soak them and pump them to bleed them in diesel.

[89CAL]

Yeah I soaked mine in petrol and pumped them, cleaned them up then did the same in oil, left them for about a week before the head went back together. Have had no issues

If your oil pressure is ok then sounds like its a fault with one or more lifters (if it is the lifters)

My injectors are quite loud on initial startup and can be confused with lifter tick

[MJTru]

I build a 25 and only after I beat the car hard does my lifter start to make noise. It sounds like 2 of them are bad. What I want to know is how can I find out which ones are the bad ones. ??? It's a fresh engine with new oil pump and the pressure is good.

[nicksamaniac]

Well I spent about 7hrs today disassemble-cleaning-reassemble all my original lifters,

Now they're all freely moving and looking nice, lapped all the mating surfaces.

I'll remove my new ones and fit the originals tomorrow.

[nicksamaniac]

Well here is some truth for peoples knowledge,

I installed all my old lifters yesterday, completely dry apart from a tiny bit of oil used to assemble them.

I couldn't bleed the valve before assembly because it wouldn't fit back into the body (made it to long for the clip to go inside the lifter body)

So I assembled them dry, (smeared with oil) and fitted them without soaking in oil, and they all bled up with 10-15sec of starting.

It's now super smooth running, this proves that they do bleed during operation, (by design, oil must fill the body -then the valve itself and pump the valve out and bleed out of the center to the cam lobe).

[Ben C34]

Were the new lifters you bought genuine?

Seems odd that they all didn't behave.

Glad it's sorted now.

[nicksamaniac]

No, non-genuine i bought from a store in Queensland,

One of them actually had come apart as I removed it, the valve fell out of the body when I lifted it up!

The clip was all mangled. I showed a few mates and no body had seen it before, and found 4 that would not check even though they where full of oil.

No brand name but was told they'd had excellent results from them over 1000's sold.

So I don't know? But I'm not going to keep them, hock them off or send em back.

Or just bin them, they're obviously no good.

[MJTru]

Can you give us a step by step on how to rebuild the lifters.

[GTSBoy]

So this has turned into a rant about non-genuine lifters?

[nicksamaniac]

We'll I've used non genuine lifters in all my other builds, (mostly holdens, 305 and 355 I've built) and never had a drama. Genuine Nissan is a rip off, they must be made from material from Saturn? Cos the price reflects as though it is.

[Missileman]

$30 each plus about $60 shipping UAE/Amatama... http://www.amayama.com/search/?q=1323179S00&cur=AUD

[nicksamaniac]

$30 bucks each! You can buy tomei sets cheaper!

These I bought were $370 delivered. But you get what ya pay for obviously!

[Missileman]

Name the store and brand, so otheres can give them a swerve.

[89CAL]

This is why I dont use aftermarket lifters anymore:

This was in my old VL, rebuilt engine, everything was new. This happened after about 3 weeks of driving

Not saying all aftermarket lifters are bad, but its just why I'm careful with lifters. I was real lucky the bits didnt pic up on one of the cam lobes because where they were sitting in the head, it was really suprising that they didnt

[nicksamaniac]

I don't really want to name and shame the store, they've been really helpful and have given me a full refund,

He said he's going to return them to the supplier to check them out.

Also they do sell some really good stuff for import cars.