Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

I have had my Stagea for about a year now.

I live at Lewiston and travel to Regency Park every day for work, traveling about 480KMs a week.

I am about to hit the 150K mark on the stag, Most of the cars i have every had have had under 150K as i usually sold them by that mark.

The problem is, i really like the stagea, and happy with mine, even thinking about getting new wheels.

The question i have is, how many KMs on a stagea is too much, how may KMs most people have, and the amount of problems that come up when they start clocking up the KMs.

I have coilovers, and all new sway bars, sway bar links and rubbers.

Most of the motor is stock, just a pod, intercooler and shift kit

Any advice and insight would be great.

Thanks

Kris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443376-kms-how-many-is-too-many/
Share on other sites

If you've spent some money on maintaining it, and you love it, why not just drive it until it dies? Keep up the fluid/brake pad/rotor/shock absorber changes over time and it'll serve you well for years. If the engine dies it's not like RBs aren't thick on the ground, and autos can be rebuilt and strengthened. Really I see no reason not to hold onto a car until its chassis is consumed by tin worm.

We've followed this policy with our VS Commodore, and now it's worth practically nothing but only costs us maybe $2-300 per year in maintenance for another year or so of bogantastic motoring. There's no way you're going to treat your Stag as badly as we treat the Commie so expect at least 300,000km out of it.

TL;DR: A lot more than 150,000km if you maintain it.

If you like you could get your odometer set to 200,000ks now so you can see your car won't explode because of a number on the dash :)

its not that, i just know of certain cars that as soon as ya rack up the KMs shit fails.

I don't plan on keeping it till its done 300ks, but as soon as the KMs get up there i am also worried about re sale value, from looking at the net the c34 has dropped in value a lot in the last year

If you like to change cars every few years for something newer, theres no way around the fact that you will pay for that luxury, with taxes and inspections, rego changing and depreciation. I figure its most economical to buy a good 2nd hand vehicle, maintain and run it until it dies.

Of course you can never be 100% sure whether you will get a vehicle that will have many problems in its life. Even though the stagea is quite heavy on fuel, the old technology seems to be simple and rugged.

If youve done major work on the engine or suspesion, like the 100k service, then you might as well get your money's worth out of the components.

Its not going to all of a sudden fall apart. but obviously components do wear out, so you replace them.

Resale value is going to depreciate no matter what car you have, so kind of a non concern really.

If you want a car that wont devalue, buy one for $1000 and get your money back in 5 years =)

Bushes get worn, distorted and loose. The suspension arms aren't difficult to fix, but something like the rear subframe bushes are much more difficult. If you haven't installed polyurethane subframe collars, that would be a good idea. The reduced movement of the subframe should help extend the life of the factory bushes. However, if you need to replace completely torn ones, you have to take the subframe out.

My Stagea just had its 240,000km service (every 5k oil and filter).

Only things that's let me down is the rad started to leak from the tanks.

I've done timing set and seals as a precaution, and water pump.

Other than that it's the tightest and smoothest running car I've ever owned. No rattles or squeaks.

Agree with everyone on here, k's don't mean anything. its all how the cars been looked after. My Stagea is nearing 230k and has (while in australia) been really well taken care of and you can tell. Seriously they are cheap cars for what they are, well worth fixing and keeping longer than 2-3 years.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm hoping I just don't have to do an engine rebuild NOW. Doesn't mean I won't do it at some point. I think a plus point is that the car presumably ran on or close to stock power nearly all it's life so far. Only the Owner I bought it from actually increased power with a standalone ECU and blew the OEM turbos. And after it got thee 2860s it wasn't driven an awful lot either.   That is what I meant. With the twins coming on so late (4500-5000rpm) I hope the rods won't want to exit the block prematurely. And it still being a 26 means the torque curve isn't gonna hike up all that much.   It didn't blow up on the dyno when they tuned it to 500ish crank. So I suppose it'll be okay for now. They did put a Tomei head gasket on first though which did not seal at all, and they redid it with a Cometic one. Which I hope won't be my water leak.   Mainly anything oil. So far all it has is the N1 pump, oil restrictor and a filter relocation kit with a cooler.
    • 15000? ish? Something like that anyway. It wasn;t so much a wear as a tear that then spread. Might have lasted a lot longer if not bothered by just one incident, whatever it was. I took a punt. They are really comfortable and do a good job of holding. My daughter HATED it when I first put them in, and probably still does now. She has sensory issues and hates the way they are all up your business. I'm 197cm and 95kg. Not fat or particularly wide, and the XL size seat is the rigth fit. If I was any fatter it would start to get too snug. Any skinnier and you'd possibly want the smaller width.
    • Mrs rs focus came factory with recaro cs  sportsters in it and they a pain in the ass to get in and out of with the really high bolsters, once you were in them they were one of the most comfortable seats I have ever sat in
    • The NA 2.5 has very little torque. You won't feel much. Those trannies are also a million years old now and it could well be f**ked. First generation electronically controlled autos will often refuse to kick down, ete, etc, depending on what's wrong with them.
    • Yes, but no but yes but no. Those "it's fine up to 500HP" rules and everything else like it were all determined back when the cars were 10 years old. As they are now 30 years old.....what do you reckon the chances of something shitting the bed are? I'd say they are much higher now than they used to be. You might be lucky. You might be unlucky. Spin the wheel and find out. Yeah, nah. It's actually exactly the opposite. Making boost early and having heaps of torque able to be generated right in the middle of the rev range will do more to damage an engine than having to rev it high to make the power. Think about the load on the conrods, bearings, etc, to make 400HP at 4000 rpm, vs 400 HP at 6500 rpm. So someone has already "let the Nissan out" which is how we describe the increased chance of a fiddled with engine to have had something done wrongly. Many more engines that have been opened die than stock ones do - even if you into consideration how they are treated wrt power levels and the like. Again, not saying that yours will definitely have been put back together by a moron. But the possibility does exist. It's still a lottery. Spin the wheel. What weakspots?
×
×
  • Create New...