Jump to content
SAU Community

Ddrift For Sale, 1990 S13, Sr20Det, 2540 Turbo, Lt8 Ecu, $3800 Ono **damaged, Urgent Sale**


Recommended Posts

Hey guys, haven't been around here for a while..

I'm moving overseas for work and finally need to sell my S13 which has been sitting unregistered for 3 years. I planned on fixing it up for years but was always busy with work or overseas and never got around to it. When getting the windscreen changed over in 2011, for the car to get re-registered, the mechanic found that the A-Pillar had cracked near the engine bay (pictured), got it home and never got around to fixing in time for rego and the car has been sitting there untouched ever since. Has other comestic damage, passenger front qtr panel is a bit bent from when it used to be very low, fair few scratches on boot and scattered here and there over the car. The car was running perfectly before it was left sitting dormant, it's run a 12.59s 1/4 mile before being slightly detuned where it was running 204rwkw afterwards, battery is dead as, if I had time I would part it out but only have a few weeks before I leave. Perfect for half cut, parts or even doing up and getting back on the road (never got it structurally checked though).

Please no time wasters/low ballers, I've tried to list all the flaws I can think of and as much info as possible so that I dont waste yours and my time.

$3800 or nearest offer (need to get rid of this ASAP so all serious offers will be considered)
If you're genuinely interested please call or txt me on 0432 215 608

FYI, I'm located on the Upper North Shore, Sydney


1990 Nissan Silvia (S13)
Engine:
- SR20DET Redtop
- XTR GT2540 ball bearing turbo
- TurboSmart manual boost controller @ 15psi
- 600cc injectors
- Microtech LT8 (dyno tuned by TM Autosports)
- Aluminium Radiator
- Custom oil catch can
- Custom Aluminium Airbox
- FMIC
- S14 Gearbox
- Heavy duty brass clutch (Daikin something, dont remember exact model)
- S15 Helical diff centre in SR20DET S13 diff

Suspension:
- 5 Stud conversion using Z32 hubs and brakes (Ferodo DS2500 pads)
- Tein Coilovers in the rear
- KYB shocks with super-low springs in the front

Interior:
- Retrimmed in Pistachio Green
- Relocated battery to boot
- Aftermarket headunit, 6x9s, 10" subwoofer and amplifiers in boot

Exterior:
- Full Vertex Bodykit
- Resprayed S15 metallic Grey (Pewter?)
- 18" Deep-dish HR Racing Rims

NOTE: Car comes with two spare front qtr panels (blue) I have lying around in the garage..

Pics:
IMG_4334.JPG

IMG_4325.JPG

IMG_4342.JPG

IMG_4343.JPG

IMG_4338.JPG

IMG_4352.JPG

IMG_4350.JPG

IMG_4347.JPG

IMG_4351.JPG


Thanks,
Robbie

Edited by ddrift

PLEASE NOTE BEFORE CONTACTING ME: This car is NOT registered, it will need to be towed home by winner via trailer or tow truck and will need a bit of TLC before attempting to reregister it.

The following things at a minimum must be done:
- All Oils, Fuel and Filters need to be drained and replaced
- Windscreen replaced
- Most likely new battery
- Someone to fix up the A-Pillar to engine bay crack mentioned below and pictured

Edited by ddrift

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • R12 has not been not available for....decades now. Propane is not a great replacement. (I mean, it's a great replacement, but it is a bit too flammable). R134a being the only way to go forward with an R12 system. The design pressures etc, are close enough to R12's to work. The ability to move heat around is close enough to R12's to work.
    • Out of curiosity, what's the reason for converting? I think @R3N3 might have the Frenchy's kit in the R33? I somehow think of you as the ambassador for realistic and clean street-driven setups nowadays  
    • careful when running the car after a boil over. Ive heard you can lose enough coolant that it won't show the right temps because of too much air in the system (or something like that). Make sure the levels are good before trying again.  Maybe a mobile mechanic can come have a look with their scan tool ?
    • OK, just for some extra clarity - there is more than one option at Frenchy's. 1. You can buy the whole kit - with or without the actual compressor. The whole kit includes mounts, hoses, condensor, etc. That's either ~$2200 or ~$2800. No surgery required with this option. 2. You can buy just the bracket (~$600), or the bracket with the compressor (~$1200). Either of this or the above option "without the compressor" is if you already have an Echo comp or you are able to source one locally. Whatever the case, in this option, you will need surgery done on your hoses to adapt to the new compressor. When I said "the Frenchy's kit", I meant the whole kit in option 1. It is obviously somewhat more $$ than a $1500 OEM compressor. But if I had to spend $1500 on an OEM compressor, I would certainly consider spending double that to renew and significantly update everything forward of the firewall. Another option is to rebuild your original compressor. My R34 comp is currently dead and I will be most likely doing that to it if the spare one in the shed is also leaky.
    • I’m thinking that’s the route I’ll  go, thanks for the input!
×
×
  • Create New...