Jump to content
SAU Community

New Too Here :-) Need Advice

Emmanuel1992
 Share

Recommended Posts

Emmanuel1992 Apprentice

Emmanuel1992

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I agree with MJtru I think I'll re build the bottom do the basics good head gasket arp studs and bigger oil pump and bigger sump, new timing belt water pump. Just leave it standard too begin with and upgrade turbo and comp :-)

SkudR33 Proficient

SkudR33

Posted
Posted

I agree with MJtru I think I'll re build the bottom do the basics good head gasket arp studs and bigger oil pump and bigger sump, new timing belt water pump. Just leave it standard too begin with and upgrade turbo and comp :-)

No point in spending big bucks to rebuild rb25 back to standard - don't waste your money... Either throw in a rb30 bottom end or just get a second hand motor and throw it in your car.

MJTru Mentor

MJTru

Posted
Posted

I would like to follow this and see what he does. Drifting you will need to rebuild that old RB30 in no time. If it's not already shot. Well one good leason I've learned if any is. The most expensive idea I ever got was a free one much less a free engine. The 30 could work, all in saying is you will never know the health of the components in that rb30 block. Please keep us posted mate. I would like to know what you did. Both options can work, just work with new parts in them that's all I'm saying. Me personally I would go back with rb25.

XKLABA Grand Master

XKLABA

Posted
Posted

If the ringlands are gone then chances as the bore a scratched so it depends if the damage can be bore out or not, on the other hand if the cheap or free RB30 block just needs a hone and rings and bearing then RB30>RBless capacity any day of the week and twice on Sunday

And the RB30 is an easier fit in to a R33 GTS-t then any GTR and plenty of GTR owners ( me included ) haven't gone to the trouble of fitting them for no reason

Bashful Rookie

Bashful

Posted
Posted

post-134751-14009209484754_thumb.jpg

I have a "drifter" and everytime I look at it and how it was treated and look at how much his previous owners poured into him and I think WHY!!! I'm hoping to bring "Bashful" back to his former glory!!! Love my car even tho secretly I think he wants to kill me

Toys are not just for boys!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Ticking Sound On Idle - Rb25

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • WARLORD
      injectors top feed for sale

      By WARLORD · Posted

      Deatschwerks 1800cc sold
    • GTSBoy
      Ticking Sound On Idle - Rb25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      Ticking Sound On Idle - Rb25

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • GTSBoy
      Ticking Sound On Idle - Rb25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
×
×
  • Create New...