Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys some help needed please

I want to degree my tomei poncams B's

My setup is flowed and ported head with a set of -5's

So from some searching I see setting them 2 degrees advanced on intake and 4 degrees retard on exhaust side, I,m happy to try those settings for the initial setup but would like to k ow if that is 2 degrees on the cams or 2 degrees on the crank

Just want to be sure on my starting point and don't want fcuk something up

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443538-degree-tomei-poncams-type-b-rb26/
Share on other sites

It's been awhile since I had Type BS but from memory the setting I used where 4 adv on intake and 9 ret on ex giving a 106 lobe centres, when I brought the car the cams where at 12deg on in and 14deg on ex which made it lumpier the a bridge port :(

The markings are in crank degrees so one mark is 2degs on crank

Make sure you degree them and set them to the paper specs that came with them, then note what your cam gears are set at, whatever they are set at is your true zero degrees.

Point being if you have shaved the head, played with gasket thicknesses, etc zero on the cam gears is not necessarily the true zero position of the cams in relation to the crank.

Get a degree wheel and a dial indicator to do it properly.

Hi Guys

just out of interest, when finding true TDC would You set your CAS timing to this new mark or to the old mark on the belt cover?

I followed this procedure to get true tdc http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/how-to-degree-an-rbxxdettt-camshaft.html

and it is a bit away from where it would be for a stock setup

  • Like 1

When you find true TDC you can mark the balancer pulley with a fresh mark to line up with the pointer. And of course can mark +5, +10, +15 degrees also if you like. When playing with the CAS, you don't pay any attention to where the CAS says it's pointing, for the same reasons you don't trust the zero positions on the cam gears....it's always adjusted to what's going on down at the crank.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm firmly on the "zero compliance is good compliance" for FUCAs. I'd be looking to solid metal joints even if the primary reason for having them is because they facilitate the twist in the arm. I have never been more happy with the way the front suspension behaves than I have since I got rid of the FUCA bushes. Even the thin little (short lived) poly bushes in the Whiteline adjustables have too much compliance for my liking. It probably won't be long before I have sphericals nearly everywhere, probably including both top and bottom arms in the rear, and I'll start complaining about the increased costs for dental work. But I will be enjoying the driving more, I'm sure.
    • Plus, you'll get great experience in bedding in pads!
    • I have offset Nismo brackets so the fact the gktechs can pivot is less important to me. I have 170mm JIC arms with bushings - but they provide no adjustment and I'm not sure whiteline eccentric bushings will fit them (I don't want to ruin the bushings currently in them to find out). Ideally I want something with bushings + adjustment; hence why I'd like to find a pair of these. Unfortunately they aren't easy to find.
    • @Vee37 How much do you really care about finding these pads again? If your pads are quiet, work well and produce minimal dust, really isn't that enough? If you are set on finding the exact pads again, I suppose I'd do something like this -  Visit your local Jax, find out what brand of pads they carry. If the Jax workshop you previously went to had the pads on the shelf, then you can almost guarantee it will be of said brand.   I'm guessing you don't have the receipt for the previous work and pads. Can you visit a Jax workshop and see if they can look up your previous job to see what pads were fitted?  Still no luck? Put your stalker hat on, find the staff that used to work at the Jax store and ask them. Talk to local workshops, try to find out where the mechanics went to. Talk to Jax workshops, maybe they relocated to another workshop. When it comes to mechanics, its a small world. You'd be surprised how easy it is to track someone down. If these ideas don't work, shit will start getting crazy very quickly.... You could find out every brand and model of pad that fits that car... and try them individually ticking each off the list if it wasn't the one you were looking for.... If you go down this path your going to want to learn how to swap pads yourself, it is very easy, takes minimal tools and space. If you have room to park the car you have room to swap the pads. Plus you have the advantage of making sure all the brake hardware goes back in so they won't squeal! 
    • You miss spelled bearings...
×
×
  • Create New...