Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25Det Drift Car Need Help

marni

By marni,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

marni Collaborator

marni

Posted
Posted

Hi y'all

My bro finally joined the skyline club!

It's an '95 R33 series 1

He wants a drift car out of it and has to rebuild it cos piston rings are gone

My question is what would you suggest he does whilst the engine is apart? He's a mechanic and all the work will be done at home... He wants to spend about $2-3K

The front mount has been installed but that's about it at this stage, pretty stock...

Thanks heaps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443547-rb25det-drift-car-need-help/
Share on other sites
LTHLRB Grand Master

LTHLRB

Posted
Posted

Forged pistons, RB26 or just balance and shot peen stock rods, Nissan or ACL bearings, Metal head gasket, N1 oil pump with Billet gears if you dont want to go a good oil pump, Head drain/return, IF he's building a dedicated drift car id go a larger baffled sump ASR or Hi Energy.

What power figures is he after also how reliable does he want the setup to be?

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

1> Don't drift it on the stock turbo. He will want more power, he will turn the boost up, the turbo will shit itself, he will be unhappy.

2> Don't drift it on the standard ECU. He will want more power, he will turn the boost up. The ECU will crack the shits, he will be unhappy.

That's already more than $3k right there. Double the budget, then double it again.

1400r Veteran

1400r

Posted
Posted (edited)

stock undress 2nd hand motor $700

nistune what $500 ish

kando or highflow 2nd hand $600ish

highflow stock injectors $500ish

coilovers $500 2nd hand

2nd hand z32 $150

2nd hand fixed back seat $300

steering lock spacers $10

weld or shim diff $ buggar all

do that with the 3k

Edited by 1400r
benji-nz Explorer

benji-nz

Posted
Posted

People are out there drifting with RB20e motors in there cars, so a standard RB25DET should be fine. More power is great, but I guess it also shows that handling setup can and is just as important as power. By all means though get some more if he can because, why not!!!!!

wildeagle44 Collaborator

wildeagle44

Posted
Posted

Head studs, oil pump collar, oil pump, oil restrictor in head and enlarge block drains.

Extended/baffled sump with an oil cooler. Then you should be set.

Stocker 25's go great. Dont worry about power yet. Get the suspension gear done (diff,castor,camber,coilovers,rack spacers) then worry about hp.

LTHLRB Grand Master

LTHLRB

Posted
Posted

Basically. Get the cooling spot on, Oil control and reliability spot on, Suspension and steering spot on then when you can confidently drive it in the red all day long (7,000rpm) and pull big entrys.. then you put more power into it. Your coight will pucker when you're 3rd pinned about to initiate your entry at winton before the last s bends. Thats without much power.

wildeagle44 Collaborator

wildeagle44

Posted
Posted

In terms of the factory RB25DET tune, is it considered "safe" for drifting/track work/in general? Obviously not maximized for power or apparently ralative fuel economy but aside from that.

Stock tune with the engine in stock form and it will do fine. From memory i think it runs a little rich so not a bad thing, correct me if i'm wrong.

I drifted mine for over a year, factory tune with just a front mount and turbo back.

LTHLRB Grand Master

LTHLRB

Posted
Posted

I'd never go to the track with a stock ecu on a RB25DET thats been boosted. I melted a couple pistons on the street with my old RB25 running 12psi. Put in an unopened engine with an ecu and a good tune been making 300+kw for around 6 years and ringed the absolute neck of the RB and it hasnt even had a missfire.

A vehicles tune is a make or break sort of thing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • DraftySquash
      Looking for someone with a R34 front bar

      By DraftySquash · Posted

      Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
×
×
  • Create New...