Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

P-Plater friendly 34 manual coupe for sale :)

Cliffs;

Year: 1999 Dec

Colour: Black (GV1)

Body: Coupe

Engine: RB25DE NEO

Transmission: 5spd Manual

ODO: 117,xxx

Location: Melb, SE suburbs

Registration: Until April 2015 (nearly a full year)

Major Service: Completed with genuine Nissan items (timing belt, water pump, etc) @ ~100,xxx

Minor Service: Every ~5000km

Replaced:

- 6x New OEM Nissan Coilpacks @ ~90,xxx [end of 2012?]

- Fuel Pump [2012]

- HID bulbs (retains OEM Xenon HID set up) [end of last year]

- Battery [last year]

Wheels: 17" SSR Type C (fronts wrapped in KU31 225s, rears are Dunlops 235s)

"Mods":

- BC BR Coilovers* (8/6kg spring rates)

- Tints

- Sound System* (Pioneer HU, JL Sub, Alpine Amp)

- LED parker lights

Extras:

- Stock suspension

Negatives:

- Underneath the front bar there are scratches, that were there from when I first got it from Japan; and then those added due to it being pretty low, haha :(

- Left hand side has a few scratches (don't know if you can even see them in pics, but I'll try to take some close ups of them if needed / you can see them in person) that have been there since Japan also.

- Wheels also came with some gutter rash, some wheels worse than others, see pics.

Etc:

So as you can see, have kept it fairly standard. In excellent condition, besides what is mentioned above.

This was my trusty daily for about three years plus; and I was the first owner of the car in Australia (have import papers and what not). Great first car for a p-plater.

Only problems I've ever had are standard R34 problems, such as the coilpacks; which, as noted above, were replaced with OEM items :).

Happy to get a RWC for the right price; tbh the only thing I could see it failing on is possibly something silly like windscreen wipers / possibly tyres but I think they're OK.

* Could be neg on price with/without these.

Price:

$13, 650; negotiable.

Note: I am NOT interested in swaps or trades.

Pics:

These were some pics taken last year, but can always message you other pics if required.

IMG_4113_3.jpg

-

479131_10151890589914552_843312252_o.jpg

-

921195_10151890589669552_1975264385_o.jp

-

475972_10151890589814552_1354092275_o.jp

Contact:

PM me on here or shoot me a message (oh-four-2-5-eight-seven-five-6-8-two). If you want to call best if you could text me first.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443621-vic-r34-gt-na-manual-coupe/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I believe mine is helical and not clutch type. During drifting one wheel was spining as if it was open diff so bought kazz 1.5 way and has sat on my shelf for the past 5 years as I want to learn shiming process and do it myself   in meantime thought I change the diff oil hence post here. So any 75-90?   i am pretty sure r34 are helical not clutch lsd as standard . That is gtt ones
    • Throw between gears are so much that is getting annoying. I have pro short shifter on my mx5 and e36 and love it . Skyline is getting unbearable    would syncro issues and short shifter is no no? Anyone mind explaining a little on why before i buy cube
    • No. Well, some people "seem to use redline shockproof in the diff". Most do not. I would only contemplate it if you have badly worn CW&P gears. And no. No-one in their right mind has ever put ATF into a diff. Any normal diff/gear oil of the right viscosity will do. Whatever takes your fancy. Castrol, Nulon, Penrite, Redline MT range. Whatever. It's just gears. 75W-90 or 80W-90 is typical. I think that GL-5 is hard to avoid these days, although I think that a GL-4 is probably preferred, given the vintage of the equipment. At least Redline offer a number of GL-4 oils. If you have a clutch type LSD instead of the VLSD, then of course you need a proper LSD oil. Anything from any of the same names above. If you have a helical LSD, then it does not require LSD oil, and the recco is the same as for the VLSD. You don't want the LSD friction modifiers in the oil for a non-clutch type LSD if you can avoid it.  
    • You may want to list it up for a little higher - This price is much lower than you may realize. Here you're pretty much selling to people who most likely already have these things on their own rigs. S chassis people eat this stuff up like you'd not believe.
    • I had my car for over 10 years and done around few thousand miles but never changed the oil. thinking of changing it.   what brand and viscocity would you put in ? people seem to use redline shockproof in the diff   on  contraty seen others using atf dexron 2 or 3 so wanted to check. is it 1 liter?
×
×
  • Create New...