Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just want to know what i should do after GTR has been in storage for 12 mths...

:change oil over

:drain petrol/replace

:brake fluid/bleed?

Not sure exactly what i should do so i thought id post here to see if anybody was a champ to point me in the right direction of the maintenance side of it being ok and not doing damage to the RB....

Thanx for taking time out to help me out....

Cheers....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443703-32gtr-in-storage-for-12-mths/
Share on other sites

change the oil before starting it. when starting it crank it a few times n then shut it off before it fires. do this a few times to get some oil pmped around before letting it fire n at idle rpm.

id drain the fuel but a lot of people say it can stay pretty good in that period. particularly if the tank was full and therefore minimal air in there to interact with.

if it hasn't been rolled every 3 weeks then itl need new tyres as they will be flat spotted.

otherwise id take it very easy for about 50km/30 mins until it warms up nicely and every little nook n cranny has fluid.

  • 4 months later...

IS your GTR in storage because of the weather? It may be a good idea if you're really worried about your vehicle to get a mechanic in and give it a proper tune up just to make sure eveyrthing is okay after coming out of the cold. At the same time, besides changing the oil and tires like what @jjman suggested, just make sure that you give the car a bit of time to warm up before taking it out of storage for a spin. Have fun!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Dunno what to tell you, when I look at it on Consult I can see this warmup timing map kicking in around 40C coolant temp and it sticks around for a while:  At part throttle on the normal base timing map it peaks around ~43 degrees of timing or something like that, this warmup timing map drops it to like 12-15 degrees. 
    • I don't think that's what you're seeing. Something else doing that. The only time I've seen it get so retarded is when it's trying to control idle (in which case we're not talking about mapped timing tagets anyway) and when there is an extreme coolant temperature sensor fault. The RB26 ECU is essentially the same as the 20 ECU and I knew that ging inside out. There is no facility for it to retard that heavily on cold start. The OEMs never used to do it back then. I mean, shit, the catalyst is abotu 3 miles down the exhaust anyway. Early light-off was just a twinkle in some EPA arsehole's eye back then, not a regular engine control strategy.
    • I must preface my comments with a general expression of ignorance. I have no specific knowledge of these NA automtaic things. I can only assume that the "steering wheel button" is for enabling the tiptronic controls. Wierd that it would even need/want a button for that... But anyway.... Was the car previously tiptronic? Did you put a new cluster in as part of all this?
    • Regardless, it doesn't seem wise especially on RBs to actually chase MBT. Timing scatter is the big one on stock CAS, even if that's fixed overshoot is worse than undershoot. 
    • It's all about reducing the overall output. Reduce the source of it, you have wayyyy less to deal with in every other step and trick you play with. It's why something like a modern vehicle, so VW, Audi etc, there's thousands of tables for the ECU to calculate what it should be doing with the engine.   Why would you NOT reduce emissions the most effective way possible, when it has very minimal tradeoff, AND manufacturers are always struggling to meet the current standards.
×
×
  • Create New...