Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey :)

I just bought another Skyline- an R33 Series 2 Mspec manual for very cheap (even suspiciously too cheap) due to un ergo, hole in exhaust (came with new full stainless steel one), misfire at boost problem which they said prob coil packs and interior dash lights and indicators don't work. Picked it up tonight and of course as was cheap I figured there will be a fair few problems I would need to sort out which is of course to be expected.

Drives great except splutters and chokes itself under boost. So far all the intake pipes and throttle body are absolutely filthy and it stinks like contaminated oil where the throttle body connects and the a lot of the hoses are bad and cracking which is all fine I can deal with that but what worries me is this-

Every single spark plug hole has heaps of brown sludge and water in there :( a decent amount as well! The coil packs look like ass so of course will replace those and the spark plugs. Firstly, what is the best way to get the water and crap out before I pull the plugs? And does the sludge and crap sound like a head gasket??? Please tell me there is something else it could be!

I will take some pics soon! Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

Em

I pulled the spark plugs and there is no water or oil or anything down there so that's good right? It seems like water accumulated on top as there was mouse crap too and a cockroach leg lol but yeah nothing under spark plugs

Clean up the entire engine bay and vehicle. Have a really good look over it, - Decide if it is worth spending effort and money on

Are the chassis rails straight, any rust, steering components, tyre wear, brakes, oil/water/air leaks, lights

What info did the previous owner give you?

Have you done a fast and revs check?

If keeping

Give it a major service including a good engine flush (Liquid Molly or Wurths). All fluids, plugs, filters

Did you get any service records with it? When were the belts done including timing belt

then go through and list all the remaining obvious issues standing still, then take it for a drive and list any running issues. get an idea of parts and prices (does it scare you?)

if not attack them methodically/logically

What aftermarket mods including ECU?

For the In cabin, dash lights and indicators - verify all fuses and relays

Sludge is from leaking covers and water laying around

Being a 96 33 GTS-t I expect your young and your budget is minimal

As you said there is a reason some cars are cheap.

Some times you can get a gem that just hasn't been maintained

Edited by Sinista32

Hey Sinista,

Thanks for the info! Haha yes student at the moment so relatively tight budget but all my money ends up going on the cars so if it needs to be fixed it will usually be done!

Have a service history with log book etc it came over from NSW so have the dates for belt etc. Chassis is nice and straight surprisingly minimal rust it's quite clean.

I managed to replace spark plugs but its going to need new coil packs considering they were submerged in water and muck. I use liquid moly on all my cars so will be putting some of that through. I don't like the BOV I want to remove that for now and just put it back to stock as will need it for pits anyway. Ran OBD no codes which is boring, other parameters seem good but not relying on that!

Coolant system seems good but will flush anyway, oil looks good etc. the car was sitting for about a year only driven every month or so.

Mods are basic just the crappy rusty looking blitz BOV, boost tee (not a fan will be removing that), HKS rear muffler, cusco strut braces, apexi air intake, aftermarket suspension- mainly cosmetic.

Since cleaning throttle body and pipes the car will start straight away idle for a second and die. Going to have to see if I put a hose on the wrong way or something- could mega vac leaks cause that?? A lot of the hoses are suspicious!! I will take some photos now of how the BOV and boost tee have been set up its all weird to me as my other one was completely stock.

Sludge around the spark plugs simply means it's had an engine degrease by someone who was rather happy with the hose. This has screwed the plugs and coils. New coils and plugs and it will probably run well.

Exactly what I was thinking. Quite possibly had the valley cover off while cleaning and have since put it back on.

Does look pretty nice for a cheap one, series 2 as well so if its just coilpacks and plugs that need replacing id be more than happy with that

Thanks :) I reckon she is pretty hot it's worth more but he had too many cars and a newborn so he just needed it gone. Good thinking guys! I found out it was actually a degrease! Why wouldn't u cover up that area though?

It's driving so much better and haven't even replaced coil packs or exhaust yet!

lol scotty yeah I want to get rid of it, don't want to really waste a tune on it. I figure I will have the work out which wires have been spliced or cut and put them back into my stock ecu? ugh annoying

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As GTS mentioned, it takes a bit of faffing, some fiddling and a little modifying.  With the strainers, you can buy different styles. Some sit flat on the pump, some angle down.  Here are some photos of mine, ignore the ugly welds lol. 
    • The smart thing is to actually locate the pump at the right point down the hanger, so that the strainer can stay sticking out at a right angle, but near the bottom. This is the perpetual hassle with retrofitting any different pump to the factory hanger. Some just go where you need it to, some need fiddling and faffing, and modifying of stuff.
    • Some updates. After a lot of praying and some inspecting of crank threads, we've found that they were both kinda munted but nothing seemed terminal. The other option was drilling and helicoiling the crank. That is obviously the last option so we decided to at least try to get a OEM GM bolt in to GM Specs. So after honing/linishing the balancer from it's .002" interference fit to a .0018" to .0015" to .0013" it eventually slotted on to the crank. ATI state the interference is nominally 0.0007-0.0009... so it's still snugger than ATI reckon and explains the issues we had to fit the thing to begin with. New GM bolt went in at 37 ft/lb then torqued 140 degrees after which was EXTREMELY   but it tightened up to 140 degrees and it was a lot of force. So all things considered, the balancer is secured to the exact specs that GM want with the OEM Stretch bolt, (that ATI say you can use..) and the balancer itself is seated and snug AF. So WOO. Engine is now back in the car with lots of swearing. Bellhousing bolts done up, driver side manifold is on, AC Compressor and hard lines are back on the car. Next step will be to connect various engine bits/wiring/intake/radiator etc. Then oil and coolant and ... test start it? And of course, looking into this issue... which actually doesn't look so bad - It looks like it can be twisted back into shape with a set of multigrips. Anyone wanna buy my bonnet? Boy it looks good over there and sunk cost sucks.
    • Also this may be a stupid question, but how would you recommend getting the strainer on a downwards angle ? as they tend to obviously clip to the bottom of the pump which usually sits level 🥴
×
×
  • Create New...