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BLKYLO,
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6 foot 91kg. Thanks Brett, ill have a look into them! Whoa 197 haha, I'm about 182 but not that far behind you in weight. My back is probably a little wider than most people my size and weight so I would most certainly need the XL seat by the sounds of it. The car is insured to drive 1000km a year (might up that at some stage) but it would likely take me at least 5 years before I would ever get close to 15,000km. If I don't buy the real ones I kind of feel like I'm cheaping out though lol Spent all this money on good quality parts every where else just to cheap out on the seats? probably my OCD. I did find these guys who are more local to me and have copy seats in stock. https://vosta.com.au/collections/reclining-bucket-seats/products/japan-stadia-ii-gradation Or if I want to go genuine https://www.carmodsaustralia.com.au/brand/bride-racing/?srsltid=AfmBOooYKfh5btzB8-ezRTTokM0AqQ3GyWKcfutaMRWBzosRLNSFQhLt -
Good. I was worried we were still talking about the block. Yes, larger baffled sump is a good idea. Do not touch the pump unless you're going on a whole build saga. Read the oil control thread on here - at least the last 100 pages or so. We drew some reasonable things together in there. The short version is that venting the sump is more important than almost anything else you do. -
Perhaps just get a proper mechanic who is good with Nissan autos (they were more or less the same across all the RWD, FWD, 4WD cars at that time, even if they were actually different boxes) to give it a good going over. He might be able to plug in a Consult or other scan tool and find out if it's got some fault codes. Otherwise, my approach to the problem if not liking the way the auto was workign behind my RB20 turbo, was to drop it on the workshop floor and put in the manual box that it really needed. That solved all the auto problems.
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Gotcha, I mean that is at least good to hear. Are there signs, or troubleshooting tips to make sure the transmission is operating properly?
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