Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gday folks,

Just thought I’d double check in case I have missed something in my research through the forums when preparing for my next step of mods on my M35.

At the moment the car has full 3 inch stainless exhaust/high flow cat/Dump pipe, HDI intercooler, BC coilovers, Transgo shift kit, Turbosmart BoV. I have in my spare room a Greddy emanage ultimate/loom, Greddy profect B boost controller and SS2 Hypergear turbo. I will be annoying Scotty for 1000cc injectors + fuel pump and a custom made intake.

From a boost/power increase point of view is there anything major I have missed before I stop acquiring parts and start fitting this gear? Are there any other major weak links I have not addressed? My intention is to get onto Scotty in a couple of weeks for the last few bits I think I need and then once they are also sitting in my spare room (I don’t really care how long it takes) i'll start fitting all this stuff to my car.

I'll eventually address brakes and perhaps add more bracing to make it handle a bit better but power is my current plan.

Cheers guys.

Obviously in the coming months as all this gets completed I’ll post results.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443757-impending-m35-upgrades/
Share on other sites

scottys modified actutor

Yes i have considered this and mentioned it to Scotty. The turbo that was rebuilt by Stao didn't have an actuator with it but i am still running a stock trubo on my car right now so i was going to obviously use that when the turbo is taken off. I can't afford to have the car off the road for weeks at a time as it's my daily. sato was nice enough to include some things in with the trubo to "pre-load" the stock actuator i think... this requires more reseach on my part and i'm not 100% sure what this entails. I assume it's to do with holding boost at higher revs but i'll read up about it more.

I did see a trans cooler mentioned and wondered about it. My car will never see the 400m strip or track (i live miles away from both) but if its required for the odd squirt on the open southern roads i'll add that to my list.

Cheers

A must have would be Scottys cooling mod,that would be the first thing id be putting on.

Quoted for truth.

A transmission cooler is very cheap insurance once you see how expensive a gearbox rebuild is.

So when you say cooling mod you are referreing to transmission cooler.

I will take your advice :)

Cheers

As Alex said Scotty's cooling mod is for engine cooling. Allows cooling system to function far more effectively, and also allows far easier bleeding of the cooling system. The NM35 cooling system is notoriously difficult to bleed.

An external transmission cooler is a separate but very worthwhile addition.

Also please make sure all the oil restrictors has been drilled out. The high flowed turbocharger do require greater oil flow to work properly.

I will certainly be doing this that's for sure.

Wat sort of power could you expect from this setup?

That's a good question... I'm hoping for anything over 240-250kw's.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer.  Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu?  Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster. 
    • Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one:  And this is the Turbosmart.     THANK YOU!! EDIT: So i read about this topic some more and i if i understand that correctly: That Greddy can function either like BoV or 100% Bypass valve? And that Turbosmart is what they called hybrid so you can adjust what and how many air can be vented out or back in? Is this right? THX!
    • That dirty voltage drop is the culprit I suspect 
    • i cant get them all in 1 screenshot unfortunately as i just dont know how to move things around tbh, but they are all from the same log and the line crosses at the same point for all of them
    • It's about time I start work on my sun tan. So I knocked up a few parts that will all combine together to become my new power steering reservoir. Now just to produce an abundance of UV and IR rays while melting a heap of bits of alu to become one... Well, that's after I put one more hole in it for the return line to plumb to. It likely won't be this weekend, as Sunday I'm meant to be in doing some last minute stuff to the AMG race car, and the weekend after will be filled with non my Skyline stuff, followed by Bathurst 6 hour. So I don't expect to get to melt metal for at least 3 weeks.   I also managed to stuff up and start cutting the hole for the res to pump pipe on the wrong side of the line... It means instead of the lines being nice and tight against the inner guard, they'll be out off the guard.    The size of it means I should end up with about 1.8L of power steering fluid, and still have space for another half a litre before it reaches the overflow/breather. This is wayyyyyyy more capacity than factory, which should help keep Powersteer oil temps lower, and the design hopefully allows it to prevent any aerated oil being able to makes its way down to the bottom as it'll have a couple of baffles and some hopeful trickery to force air bubbles away from the bottom.
×
×
  • Create New...